| Author | Message | ||
     Jaimec |
Some of you are aware of the travails a friend and I have had with getting our bikes serviced at the local dealer. My bike just went in on Tuesday for it's 20K service. According to them, a fork oil change is NOT part of this service (but then again, what do you expect from a service tech who tells you the '06 Uly belt needs to be changed at 15K miles?). So since I told him I want the fork oil changed, he has to order the seals and bushings for the fork because (naturally) they don't stock those parts. For fun I've created a $5.00 pool for my club. Closest guess within 24 hours of when I can pick up the finished bike wins the pool. If no one wins, the money gets donated to the AMA New York State Political Action Committee. I picked Wednesday, November 21 as my date. We'll see what happens. Based on my friend's experience, some club members want to know if they can pick dates in December or in 2008. Yeah, the dealer has THAT good a reputation. Sure wish I lived closer to NewRoc or Danbury! | ||
| Djkaplan |
Is it necessary to change the seals and bushings when you change fork oil on an XB? I changed the oil in my M2 forks and didn't have to mess with fork seals or bushings. | ||
| Jaimec |
I have the service manual at home and I'm too lazy to look. It IS an inverted fork, so maybe they do? I used to change the fork oil on my old 1985 K100 all the time and never did anything more than drain and replace fluid. Oh, there were a couple of crush washers that had to be replaced... maybe that's what he's talking about? | ||
| Spiderman |
unless the seals are leaking you do not need to replace them and you would only need to replace the bushings if the forks are "out of spec" IE the sliders feel "wobbly" I have the service manual at home and I'm too lazy to look. It IS an inverted fork, so maybe they do? “We excuse our sloth under the pretext of difficulty.” | ||
| Barker |
FYI: Seals and bushings for the fork are not needed for a XB fork oil change. Thats doing it by the book. I have done two fork oil changes on my XB with original Seals and bushings. No leaks, lots of wheelies. I did them myself all I needed was 2 bottles of Type E fork oil and a $2 strap to compress the forks. (Message edited by barker on November 08, 2007) | ||
| New12r |
To just do the oil you only have to pop the top and pour, then pump, then refill. You sure you want them touching your bike?? | ||
| Jaimec |
Yeah... as I said... these are the same guys who said the '06 Ulysses belt needs to be replaced at 15,000 miles as part of a regular service... | ||
| Barker |
Reputation like that, I would be scurd 4 my scoot. | ||
| Djkaplan |
I'd be wary of getting charged for the seals and bushings. | ||
| Glitch |
I'd not be taking my bike to anyone with a rep like that. To me you have lost any space to gripe if they "take too long" or screw something up. You went in with your eye wide open. Besides, why take it in for the 20K anyhow? Do it yourself, save some $$ and buy yourself something nice. What does a 20K cost anyway $300+? | ||
| Jaimec |
Eyes wide open. Yup. I just want to see how bad a screwin' I get. They probably won't even kiss me afterward. Besides, I want solid evidence that they don't know what the **** they're doing BEFORE I go to the Dealer Principle and explain why they're service department is costing them sales... | ||
| Doerman |
I think you have that evidence already when the tech said he needed to order fork seals. Clearly, that's incorrect. It's up to you, but I'd pull my bike outta there faster than quick before damage is done. Asbjorn | ||
| Court |
I've got no times for games. I'd be at Liberty. | ||
| Cityxslicker |
I lost my first belt at 9280. I am approaching 18k, I expect to have it go ANY moment, packing one in the luggage in case it happens before my next service. | ||
| Danger_dave |
>>Do it yourself, save some $$ and buy yourself something nice. << I find something nice is not having to work on motorcycles. Never enjoyed it, just the results. Don't mind grooming them. | ||
| Gentleman_jon |
Charlie, Could you possibly go in to a bit more detail about your oil changing technique? It sounds too simple to be true, more like changing the oil on a Harley fork. Other descriptions of how to do it always seem to involve compressing the forks, removing spring, total disassembly etc. etc. Thanks. Jonathan | ||
| Glitch |
I just want to see how bad a screwin' I get. Is it still getting screwed when you're asking for it? If they totally •••• up your bike, I don't want to see a thread started by you whining about how you got screwed. You're asking for it, so don't cry about it when you get it. If I hear of any place that offers up poor service, be it motorcycle related or not, you can bet your ass I'll not drop by to spend my hard earned money just to see how badly they screw me. This has got to be one of the most asinine things I have heard in a long time. Things must be really boring up your way to (a) either do something stupid just because you heard that something stupid might just happen, or (b) trolling. Either way, I think you need to find something better to do. Just my 2¢ | ||
| Jaimec |
OR: (c) trying to get things improved. Things don't get better at dealerships unless they get feedback. I'd suspect the best way to do that is to hit them in the pocketbook. Pointing out that their service department is costing them new bike sales is probably the best way to do it. It's great that Court (living in Manhattan) can go to Liberty. That's TWO bridges and their accompanying tolls PLUS the stupid amount of time spent in traffic. And then there's the fun part of getting back home afterward. I think it's worth the effort to TRY and get the local dealership to shape up. So sue me. | ||
| Dbird29 |
It's not that hard! http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/249047.html?1188735029 I say do it yourself. | ||
| Glitch |
It's great that Court (living in Manhattan) can go to Liberty. That's TWO bridges and their accompanying tolls PLUS the stupid amount of time spent in traffic. And then there's the fun part of getting back home afterward. Yet you're willing to take the time (Closest guess within 24 hours of when I can pick up the finished bike wins the pool.) and risk (Some of you are aware of the travails a friend and I have had with getting our bikes serviced at the local dealer.) of all that, rather than take the time and effort of going somewhere you know you'll be treated right. OR: (c) trying to get things improved. They would have to care first, you've made it sound as if they do not. If you really want improve things with your local dealer, you would give them a head's up, not start betting on how badly they're going to screw you. You could give the GM of said dealership a call, and tell him how you were treated last time you were in, tell him you're giving them a second chance trusting them with your 20K service. If your next comment is anything less than saying that's what you intend to do, you have no intention of improving anything. | ||
| Spiderman |
That's like cutting a leg off cause you have an infection, when all you really needed was some anti-biotics. There are ways to cure problems without having to be screwed or punished, use some damn common sense! There are two choices, have dealer take X amount of days and X amount of money to "Fix" bike. The complian that they didn't need X amount of days or X amount of parts then bitch to said dealer about the whole situation OOOOR Take manual to said dealer and show all you need to do it replace fluid and that they are morons. That way you save X amount of days and X amount of parts/money. But that would require opening your parts book and it is just easier to bitch about it on BadWeb... | ||
| New12r |
Jon, I take the forks off the bike, clean and inspect for any damage/leaks etc... Then I mount one at a time in the vise, clamping at the fork body where the lower triple clamps. Next remove the spring preload nut assy. I remove the top cap with the deep 32mm socket while holding the the lower leg. After that I remove from the vise and turn it upside down and let it drain, to get it all out you will have to pump(compress) the fork a few times to clear out the dampers. After all that they get mounted back in the vise as level as I can get them and support the lower leg with a 4x4, fill with the appropriate amount of fluid(I have found all but 1 oz of the 14oz bottles is perfect for me) bolt it up in reverse order and off ya go. | ||
| Court |
>>>It's great that Court (living in Manhattan) can go to Liberty. That's TWO bridges and their accompanying tolls PLUS the stupid amount of time spent in traffic. And then there's the fun part of getting back home afterward. Tell me about it . . . I get the oil changed in my truck in Cape May. They do an EXCELLENT job. Sure. . . it's a couple hours down and a couple back but they do excellent work. I never wonder if they really used synthetic and I know when I tell them to drain and replace the coolant, brake fluid, power steering fluid and transmission fluid that it was done. I'm anal and I'm willing to pay to have shit done right. Someone going to fax this thread to the dealership or do I need to do that too? . . get off your bloomin' ass, quit whining and make something in this world better. Court | ||
| Jaimec |
Okay, I did a little "research" on my own. Now remember, the guy I was talking to was simply the service WRITER, he's not the technician. I took out my trusty 2006 Factory Service Manual for the Lightning models and did a quick search in both the table of contents and the index. I could not find any reference to "fork oil change." I found the maintenance schedule and it definitely does state that the fluid should be changed at 20,000 miles (so he was wrong on that count), but nowhere in the manual could I find the directions to change the fork oil. Now, there ARE instructions for REBUILDING the forks, and it's possible that he BELIEVES the forks must be rebuilt when the fluid is changed. If there were any updates to the manual from the day it was published, I don't have them so I don't know if any were ever published. I guess I've got too many lawyer friends, but if it's not in writing, then it doesn't exist. | ||
| Djkaplan |
You're definitely doing the right thing by insisting on replacing the oil. I could feel a difference when I changed my fork oil. | ||
| Jaimec |
Yeah, it was definitely getting "squirrely" in the bumpy corners. | ||
| Barker |
I think your FSM is missing some pages. Replace fork oil every 10k, not rebuild forks. No place i can find any interval for fork rebuild. Fix if they fail, but not a service interval. From the factory (2006) http://www.buell.com/om/99474-06Y_en/file-13.asp#t able-hdtopic000090-1 (Message edited by barker on November 09, 2007) | ||
| Jaimec |
Barker, You missed my point. I already pointed out that the maintenance schedule says to replace the fork oil. What I was saying was that the manual doesn't tell you HOW, it only tells you how to rebuild the forks. If there is a page that explains how to JUST replace the fork oil, please give me a link to that. I'll print it off and bring it to the service writer. I tried to find it and couldn't. All I could find were directions on how to REBUILD the forks. | ||
| Glitch |
If they know not how to simply change the fork oil, why are you messing with this place? After all forks are not a Buell exclusive item. You tenacity with this dealership astounds me. If they indeed do not know how to take oil out of a fork, why let them learn on your bike? What if they fill them with different levels and the handling suffers? Are you really willing to trust your bike to them knowing they know not what they do? I can't wait for the thread you start after you get your bike back. I can see the thread title now: "That dealership isn't as good as my BWM dealership" You asking for trouble, and how do I know you're going to be bitching when you finally get what you're asking for? | ||
| Spiderman |
this thread reminds me of someone...  |
