| Author | Message | ||
     No_sprk |
Very slight speed wobble at 80mph. Rode well otherwise. Omg tires totally change the bike. | ||
| No_sprk |
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| No_sprk |
Found some old Ironhead pegs from my chopper parts bins. Just as long as the fat oem pegs but alot skinnier without the big hollow area up top. Someone please help me get rid of that stupid wannabe forcewinder. I need a canned ham air cleaner   | ||
| Mike_lee |
got her lookin sexy man... very nice. | ||
| No_sprk |
thanks. im already close to the edge of the 170... maybe i should of got the 180 | ||
| No_sprk |
did a oil change. boy did it need it! i used a wix 51214 (long version) and VR1 20W50 "high zinc" oil. with the long filter it only took 2 quarts to get in the middle of the low and high mark... do s1 bikes carry less oil than a m2? i googled a m2 oil change and someone on here said they should carry 2.5QT | ||
| Upthemaiden |
I'm pretty sure M2's have a slightly larger tank(not enough to put any money on it, but that's what's in the back of my head). I thought the S1 took 2.5 quarts, but I refilled mine a couple weeks ago with a new filter, and I think I remember it actually being about 2qt. Also keep in mind, the general consensus here is to stay closer to the low line, and not go over halfway. Any more than that and they start wanting to leak oil. | ||
| No_sprk |
Yeah I got lucky. I thought 2 qts with the big filter would have me at the low line. Well the middle mark was after being warm. Checking it level. Bike sounds a little better. Is it OK to use the same stuff in the primary? I got three qts so I have one extra. | ||
| Oopezoo |
With my S1, if I get anywhere near the middle of the dipstick (when hot), it will puke oil everywhere. It was bad enough that I put the rear fender back on. I also run a larger filer and it typically takes me just a touch over 2qts for a change. Now that I know where the level should be, it hasn't puked a drop. Still not sure if I'm ready to pull that hugger back off though. | ||
| No_sprk |
wow i guess im lucky then. | ||
| Upthemaiden |
I've heard so many things about what you can and can't put in the primary. A lot of people dumb the same stuff in both holes. When I got the bike I put amsoil 20w50 in everything. This last time I convinced myself to step into the HD dealership and just put Formula+ in the primary. Supposedly some lubricants can do bad things to the stator, so I figured I'd use the recommended stuff just to be safe. | ||
| No_sprk |
Yeah makes sense. On my fxd I use the oem stuff becausd it takes 3 diff fluids. Lookie what came in the mail from a fellow bueller  | ||
| S1owner |
I use screaming eagle synthetic in all cavities never had an issue! | ||
| Rick_a |
I have a highly molestered '96 S1. It's a little ugly, always dirty, and currently blown up, but it's easily the most fun I've had on a motorcycle once set up properly. The best part of the current configuration is nobody wants to steal it anymore. When it was pretty and red it got a lot of attention...sometimes unwanted  IMG_4662 by Slick_Rick77, on Flickr | ||
| Gusm2 |
It isn't a good idea to fit an oversized tyre to your rim, the bike won't handle as well nor will it make the contact patch any bigger | ||
| No_sprk |
i thought you were talking to me till i looked at his picture. yikes! i actually got a 170 rear even though alot run 180 on a PM wheel. i have not leaned it over rear far yet but im already getting close to the edge of the tire in the rear. front im not even getting close | ||
| Gusm2 |
Sorry I didn't notice the PM'S either  | ||
| No_sprk |
Oh man I need a better seat... Bad.  | ||
| Lynrd |
that's not a seat, it's a suppository. | ||
| No_sprk |
Wow makes more sense now. I'm about to go buy an X1. | ||
| M2x2 |
M2. all day comfort seat | ||
| Upthemaiden |
You get used to it. My bike had a corbin when I bought it, which I was initially excited about. I ended up selling it and going back to the stock seat, it's actually a little more comfortable. Throw on some padded bicycle shorts before you go for a ride and you'll feel a bit better. | ||
| No_sprk |
problem is i think im too big for the bike. i havent seen an s1 in person since i was a kid. i drove from CA to Chicago area to get the bike. didnt want to go home empty handed. i rode hwy1 to stewarts point and took skaggs springs all the way into lake sonoma, on the downhill twisties the seat kept me up against the tank the whole time, putting alot of pressure on my wrists, eventually making my hands go numb. the sides of the seat hurt my legs/ass area more than the actual middle of the seat. i set my cell phone outside recording me sitting on the bike. omg i do look like im riding a blast. need to eat less and maybe buy an x1 or s3 (its really hard for me to like an m2 without it being CUSTOM) | ||
| S1owner |
I am 6 ft 240. | ||
| Mike_lee |
I think a euro seat, if you can find one, is the ticket. Very comfy. I have a Corbin too and the sides just feel sharper and put pressure on the inner thigh. At least that's my take. You could look into some bar risers. Get ya more upright. Or you could buy my x1 but...im 8 hrs further east than Chicago heheh | ||
| Oopezoo |
The seat is a bastard, and WAY to soft. I also fight the seating position it wants to put me in. I'm constantly pushing myself back, only to find myself sliding forward again. I'm 6'2" w/ a 34" inseam, and about 235ish right now. I know I would be fine if I could just redo the stock seat to move the seating position back and firm it up.......but I've had other priorities and didn't want to tear apart the only seat I have in the middle of riding season. I've been watching Ebay for a trashed one, but everyone want $150+ for seats that already in worse shape than my own. I'll tell you one thing that will really help. Get your weight off the seat. Not so much standing on the pegs, but thats where you want your weight, with a light touch on the bars. Support your body weight with your thigh muscles and allow the bike to float under you. There is only so much you can do on a S1, but I can handle a gas tank at a time before I really need to get off for a few minutes. And that is because I am no longer in prime riding shape due to having 2 little kids and no more free time to ride. Do a search for the master yoda riding position. Its something made popular with the BMW long distance sport touring crowd. Sounds silly, but damn does it ever work. I've done multiple 1k mile days on my BMW's and thats what allowed me to do it in comfort. Last long trip was from Salida, Co to York, PA in 2 days on my 1200GS in triple digit heat. | ||
| Ratbuell |
A Euro seat will only fit a solo tail; hard to tell from the photo angles, but this bike appears to have a twintail on it. If you want a Euro, you have to change the tail bodywork, and the taillight bracket. There's a reason it's called a "one cheek seat"! If you're sitting still on it, you're not riding it right - hang off, move around, use your body weight to turn the bike. Even if you're not knee-dragging, a shift from L cheek to R cheek will help change direction when needed. If the bars are numbing your arms, switch to Blast bars - same as S3, couple inches taller but not "apehangers" by any stretch. I'm 6'4", 200, 34" inseam, and I've done a few 500+ mile days on my S1W with the solo/euro seat. It can be done. Of course, I always wear armor...and they generally include a butt-plate...but seriously - don't sit still on the bike. Use some body english on it. | ||
| Gusm2 |
https://youtu.be/unkIVvjZc9Y Like Chopper says HTFU  | ||
| Mike_lee |
That is excellent advice. Also, that is a twin tail huh... | ||
| No_sprk |
Thanks for the kind words. Not a twin tail. It wasn't so much my ass as my wrists and hands going totally numb for an hour in and out. And yes I swap over. I'm just fat with a 38" waist. I think if I just shave the seat back it will help. |
