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Steveford
Posted on Saturday, March 24, 2018 - 08:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If the kill switch is on the pump won't cycle. I think it's the same deal if the clutch and sidestand switches are FUBARed, too.
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Court
Posted on Saturday, March 24, 2018 - 09:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

>>>> rotor made in Italy

By a Japanese health care company . . . . figure THAT one out!

:-)

Kinda like the days when Ducati and Burger King were under common ownership . . . .
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Hootowl
Posted on Saturday, March 24, 2018 - 09:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Good brakes lower health care costs?
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Buellbum
Posted on Saturday, March 24, 2018 - 09:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)


quote:

Good brakes lower health care costs?




lol.... that's for sure. my superglide doesn't stop well at all.... i can only assume that HD doesn't care about returning customers.
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Midknyte
Posted on Sunday, March 25, 2018 - 03:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

>...fuel pump should do 17k without a problem...

My X1 ended up needing a fuel pump last year at just under 7000 miles.
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Buellbum
Posted on Sunday, March 25, 2018 - 08:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)


quote:

If the kill switch is on the pump won't cycle. I think it's the same deal if the clutch and sidestand switches are FUBARed, too.




this bike has a side-stand switch? gotta look... i'm going to see if the kill switch has tripped-off today.


quote:

My X1 ended up needing a fuel pump last year at just under 7000 miles.




why can cars go 150k miles on the orig fuel pump but bikes can't go 8K? weird... that's why i like a good ol carburetor.
do you know the part number for the fuel pump? i'm hoping that i can cross-reference it and get one cheap. it's probably the same one that's used on my ford escort. lol..

(Message edited by buellbum on March 25, 2018)
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Akbuell
Posted on Sunday, March 25, 2018 - 09:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Since you are in 'search' mode, a quick test re the fuel pump. IF I am reading the service manual correctly . . .

Apply 12V to pin D (the grey wire) in the fuel pump plug-in. Then use a jumper to ground pin C (BN/Y wire). The pump should run. And while you are there, check to see if you have 12V at the harness GY wire with the ign and stop/run switch on. If I am reading the wiring diagram correctly.

May help in your trouble shooting. And while there, if the pump cycles, wouldn't hurt to check fuel pressure, and can the pump sustain it. Hope this helps, Dave
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Buellbum
Posted on Sunday, March 25, 2018 - 11:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

@ Akbuell: yeah, thanks. i'm looking at a PDF repair manual but it's not clear. do you have to remove the tank to pull the fuel pump? i know that i have to remove the filler cap but i can't see anything under the tank so i assume that the tank has to be removed.

wtf is wrong with a carb? a simple bike made complex unnecessarily.
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Akbuell
Posted on Sunday, March 25, 2018 - 12:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Nothing wrong with a carb; FI just does better. EPA and all that stuff. I get 50-53ish mpg, compaired to 35ish with a carb.

Anyway, removing the tank will make things easier. Remove the seat, take off the retaining strap at the rear of the tank. Unplug the harness, remove the fuel line, put tank on bench.

On top of the tank, remove the filler cap, ring, and tip-over fuel valve. On the bottom, one fitting nut for the electrics and another for the fuel line. The pump assy comes out through the filler hole.

Have not used a PDF manual as I have the factory one. Strongly advise getting the factory one, which I consider the most important tool in the box.

Hope this helps, Dave
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Buellbum
Posted on Sunday, March 25, 2018 - 12:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

yeah, helps a lot . thanks, Dave.

i'm looking on ebay for a pump. which one is recommended. Kemso? made in japan.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/KEMSO-OEM-Replace-Fuel-Pu mp-for-Buell-X1-Lightning-1999-2002/152394794591?h ash=item237b70065f:g:gQYAAOSw-0xYeIzj&vxp=mtr
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Buellbum
Posted on Sunday, March 25, 2018 - 01:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)


quote:

If the kill switch is on the pump won't cycle. I think it's the same deal if the clutch and sidestand switches are FUBARed, too.




where is the kill switch?

also, they disabled the side-stand switch and linked the two wires together so i have to fix that...
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Court
Posted on Sunday, March 25, 2018 - 02:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

This is what you side stand switch looked like when it was born . . . .


Side Stand Switch


Many failed and had the 2 wires, coming from the white plug, simply tied together . . thus defeating the switch.
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Akbuell
Posted on Sunday, March 25, 2018 - 02:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Kill switch- Also known as stop/run switch is the red rocker switch on the right handgrip. Push rocker up for stop, down for run.

Disabling the sidestand switch is kinda SOP for these bikes. Enough failed or got into an intermittent mode that most here connect the two wires together, as yours seems to have been, to remove an issue.

Look through the Knowledge Vault, or use the search function (not my strong suit here) and find the part number for a pump replacement from your local auto parts store. Others have done it. Or get ahold of Lance at St Paul H-D for a factory replacement. Those are spendy.

Do you actually need a new pump?

Dave
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Akbuell
Posted on Sunday, March 25, 2018 - 04:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

After a Google search, might want to look at highflowfuel. com. $79.98 for a kit with pump, strainer, fuel pressure valve, ect, with a warranty.

Dave
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Buellbum
Posted on Sunday, March 25, 2018 - 04:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)


quote:

This is what you side stand switch looked like when it was born



yeah, that part is dangling with wires twisted together. i tested the kickstand switch and it's working fine. i'll hook it back up.


quote:

Push rocker up for stop, down for run.



no, i mean the tip-over, fuel cut-off switch.

[quote]find the part number for a pump replacement from your local auto parts store. [/quote]
that's a plan!

(Message edited by buellbum on March 25, 2018)
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Steveford
Posted on Sunday, March 25, 2018 - 04:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The BAS (tip over switch) should be under the seat by the tail light if I remember correctly).
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Buellbum
Posted on Sunday, March 25, 2018 - 05:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

ok, cool... THANKS. that must be checked first.

oh, the plastic part that holds the seat pin in is broken. anybody have a good homemade fix for this?
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Buellbum
Posted on Sunday, March 25, 2018 - 05:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

i can't find the tip-over-switch in that location. i did however find two wires with large female ends that go nowhere.


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Buellbum
Posted on Sunday, March 25, 2018 - 05:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

i just got one of these. it also fits lincoln towncar. lol... I'm off to the beach! no yanks allowed!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kenro-New-Fuel-Pump-Buell -Xb9Sx-Xb9-Xb9S-Lightning-2003-2004-2005-2006/3024 10484228?fits=Year%3A2002%7CMake%3ABuell%7CModel%3 ALightning&epid=2165656163&hash=item466911ca04:g:P WYAAOSwmphaHHBw&vxp=mtr



(Message edited by buellbum on March 25, 2018)
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Akbuell
Posted on Sunday, March 25, 2018 - 05:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The tip over switch is just forward of the fuse block, on the forward side of the piece the fuse label is on. The thing I was talking about is the shut-off for the fuel vent, in case the bike is on its side. It is inside the tank, just under the fuel vent hose connector.

What color(s) are the wires? May be for the tail light - brake light.
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Court
Posted on Sunday, March 25, 2018 - 07:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

>>>Push rocker up for stop, down for run.

Correct .. on Buell

Backwards on Ducati
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1313
Posted on Sunday, March 25, 2018 - 07:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

This is what you side stand switch looked like when it was born . . . .

Actually that's the early tuber side stand switch. Later tubers, like the 2002 X1 we're discussing here, used the Blast side stand switch with an additional bracket.
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Buellbum
Posted on Sunday, March 25, 2018 - 08:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)


quote:


What color(s) are the wires? May be for the tail light - brake light.



black and blue. the turn signals and tailight are wired but it's the same type of harness.


quote:

The tip over switch is just forward of the fuse block, on the forward side of the piece the fuse label is on.



well there is something there with some wires but it's inaccessible without removing the aluminum tailpiece. does it reset itself? the one in my car has to be untripped.
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Court
Posted on Sunday, March 25, 2018 - 09:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

>>>Actually that's the early tuber side stand switch

I was wrong. I stand corrected.
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Steveford
Posted on Sunday, March 25, 2018 - 09:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)



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Buellbum
Posted on Sunday, March 25, 2018 - 11:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

thanks for that pic but i can't tell of the switch. do you know if it has a reset button? but you know what? i began thinking about your other post about the kill switch. i'm going to make sure that i had it turned on next time. i was sure that i did but i don't remember doing it. i slathered my hotwire job on the cut ignition wires with silicone after putting solid silicone spacers between the contacts since the orig clip was cut off. when that dries i'll give it 12v and go at it again. THANKS!

(Message edited by buellbum on March 25, 2018)
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Williamscottrobertson
Posted on Monday, March 26, 2018 - 12:59 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

No reset on the tip over sensor. I don’t think I’ve ever seen one fail. If you hold it in your hand and shake it, you can hear a slide move back and forth inside, when it falls over, gravity pulls the slide over to make contact (or break contact - however it functions) to kill the ignition circuit.
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Upthemaiden
Posted on Monday, March 26, 2018 - 09:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"black and blue. the turn signals and tailight are wired but it's the same type of harness. "

If it has constant power, it's probably just the license plate light. I don't remember what the original X1 rear fender looked like, but if the plate is tucked under the tail light now, the plate light probably got tossed.

I agree carbs make life easy. FI is nice on a cold morning when you just want to hit a starter and go, but if you're willing to deal with the warm up procedure on a carbed bike, they're nice if you're rather pull out some wrenches instead of a computer to fix things.

My vote is also to leave the sidestand switch off. Even if you hook it up and it's working now, it's still possible it'll cause you problems. Mine would work 95% of the time, but on occasion I'd be riding and my bike would just shut off. Usually fixed by pulling over, putting the sidestand down and back up a couple times, but ever since I disconnected it, life has been good. Shame it took my wife having to come pick me up with the truck and getting to work late the 2nd day I tried to ride it, before I figured that out. Just get in the habit of flipping the sidestand up as soon as you sit on the bike, I do it in one fluid motion when I stand the bike upright.
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Akbuell
Posted on Monday, March 26, 2018 - 09:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Re the wires- What Upthemaiden said. On a stock bike, those wires run inside the left channel of the tail piece, and power the tail light/stop light, turn signals, and the license plate light. Whichever one of those you have that doesn't work or has been removed will be what those wires are for.
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Buellbum
Posted on Monday, March 26, 2018 - 10:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)


quote:

If it has constant power, it's probably just the license plate light.



that makes sense.... i'll hook up some LED strips to it.


quote:

My vote is also to leave the sidestand switch off.


yeah, but it's so easy to ride off with that damned stand down. what i will do is put a toggle switch there as a theft deterrent. this way i can leave it on or off at my discretion.
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