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X1bully
Posted on Monday, December 11, 2017 - 05:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I got the full isolator kit but only just looked at it. It's from lances HD..


Damn the right is very expensive $96.
Left $18
Front $46

I noticed the right is made in 2017 and looks rough.
Not worth a return right? It had lots of bumps on it compared to the left that is smooth. Left is made in 2014.

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X1bully
Posted on Monday, December 11, 2017 - 05:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Also planning on just installing the right one for now. Can't afford the billet engine front mount since I want to do that with the new front isolator.
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651lance
Posted on Monday, December 11, 2017 - 07:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The left is obsolete and has been for almost three years. We get the rights from HD warehouse and the left from vintage. Around the same time the obsoleted the left they placed a big order for the rights and they went on back order for a few months. We have seen any issues with either side.
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Monday, December 11, 2017 - 09:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Is the metal backing the rough part or is it coated with rough stuff?
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Buellrobot
Posted on Monday, December 11, 2017 - 11:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Are the obsolete ones inferior to the newer "rough" textured version, or is it essentially the same level of functionality?
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651lance
Posted on Monday, December 11, 2017 - 11:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I just looked at all our stock. The cleaner looking ones are the obsolete L0504.9 and the L0505.9 is the rougher looking one. All the L0504.9 we have in stock look the same.
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X1bully
Posted on Monday, December 11, 2017 - 05:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So the rubber on the new one 2017 is stronger?
I got the upgraded new front one with smaller bolt.

So there are 2017 lefts? And they have the texture like the right? Can I exchange my left for a 2017 Left? Is it the same price?

The metal in the back is smooth on both.
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651lance
Posted on Monday, December 11, 2017 - 05:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

There is and rev so all the components and compounds are the same.

All the left will be 2014 and the right 2017.

2014 is the last year they made the left side.
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X1bully
Posted on Monday, December 11, 2017 - 07:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok interesting. I just want the most up to date parts if I'm going to replace them.

I have a question about the pin hole. Is there a pin on the frame itself or is this another piece that fits between isolator and frame?
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651lance
Posted on Monday, December 11, 2017 - 07:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Should be a roll pin in the frame.
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Williamscottrobertson
Posted on Monday, December 11, 2017 - 09:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just did the Scott Free method last week to change out the isolators on my s1w. Easy job compared to the horror stories Iíve read. Went smoothly, just follow the SB on the install. I stayed with the taller hex bolts. Iíve heard some say go to the button head torx to prevent rubbing the isolator. Then some say the button head torx are no good.
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Sportyeric
Posted on Tuesday, December 12, 2017 - 12:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I've got two sets in the fridge. Where they'll stay till I need them.
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Tuesday, December 12, 2017 - 12:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

He has an X1 with the sweet secret panels in the frame for the scott free method isn't relevant here.

What is relevant is knowing that there is a tiebar in the back under the hugger fender that needs to be removed so that the engine can flop over to replace the left hand side.
(Took me a looong time to figure this out!)
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Hootowl
Posted on Tuesday, December 12, 2017 - 12:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Helps to remove the one in front too. I've swapped X1 isos in 30 minutes, soup to nuts.
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Tuesday, December 12, 2017 - 04:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The first and only time I replaced mine, the bike was held up to the garage rafters with tiedowns and ropes while the engine was jacked up from below.
It looked like that scene from "Hellraiser" with the fish hooks and chains.

I had every damn thing off (I thought) and yet I still couldn't get the left side swapped out.
That's when I noticed the damn tiebar in the back under the hugger.
Took me longer to put all of the dumb stuff back on that I didn't even have to touch than it took to do the relevant stuff.

So yeah, my front was off as was the top bottom inside outside between seat tank power steering pump
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