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X1bully
Posted on Sunday, November 05, 2017 - 11:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Noticed it cracked. This is a new one from twinmotorcycles. Had it on the bike a bit. Recently installed a new muffler. Repacked oem race can..

Does this part always break?

Maybe it's because I haven't done my rubber mounts yet, summer my buell mechanic was back logged.



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X1bully
Posted on Monday, November 06, 2017 - 12:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I also noticed this part at twincycoes is up to 80 euro from 40 euro.
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S1owner
Posted on Monday, November 06, 2017 - 08:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Dean adams off this site makes a very nice modified race shoe ( L bracket) that would help you ang with making sure the whole exhaust is installed correctly. Everything should fit together loose make sure it is all in its place then tighten the bolts starting at the muffler
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Hootowl
Posted on Monday, November 06, 2017 - 08:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You should immediately cease riding that motorcycle until you get that isolator installed correctly/replaced. You're flirting with an accident there. The front-to-back misalignment of the exhaust canister caused by your sagging frame is likely what led to your front mount cracking, and is putting stress on your exhaust studs. Before you fix the isolator, loosen the exhaust canister mounts and the exhaust stud bolts. The entire exhaust system needs to be stress-free or you'll start breaking a lot more than the front mount bracket.
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X1bully
Posted on Monday, November 06, 2017 - 10:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok. I bought the isolator kit but I was thinking of getting a front billet engine mount so it could be installed at the same time. It's getting cold now so I'll chill and drive for now.
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X1bully
Posted on Monday, November 06, 2017 - 10:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I thought the isolators only keep the vibration down and do nothing else.
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Upthemaiden
Posted on Monday, November 06, 2017 - 11:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The tiebars keep the engine lined up horizontally in the frame, but still allow vertical movement. The motor is hanging in the frame by the isolators.
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Gnutlethal
Posted on Monday, November 06, 2017 - 12:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

And get that oil leak fixed.
Your engine case looks like it was bathing in oil
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Hootowl
Posted on Monday, November 06, 2017 - 05:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"The motor is hanging in the frame by the isolators."

The front of the motor hangs from the frame, but the rear of the frame sits on the swingarm mounting block. Your weight pushes down on the frame, and down on the outside of the rear isolators. In other words, the back of the engine holds up the frame, and the frame holds up the front of the engine. The rear suspension does not connect to the frame, its load path is entirely in the swingarm, mounting block, rear shock, and engine cases, so the frame doesn't hold up the rear, as the engine is a stressed member for the rear suspension.
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Hootowl
Posted on Monday, November 06, 2017 - 05:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Different in every sense : )
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Hootowl
Posted on Monday, November 06, 2017 - 09:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Come to think of it, the dropped frame wouldnít cause the exhaust to be out of alignment in the back...itís entirely connected to the engine. As you were. : )
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Oopezoo
Posted on Tuesday, November 07, 2017 - 07:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)


quote:

Come to think of it, the dropped frame wouldnít cause the exhaust to be out of alignment in the back...itís entirely connected to the engine. As you were.




Yes, but new isolators DRASTICALLY cut down on the overall vibration of the motor/exhaust as a unit. I just replaced all of the originals on my S1 and it made a world of difference. It had about 16k miles on it. None of them were torn, but it was kind of a last resort to keep my exhaust together as it kept shaking itself to pieces. The jury is still out if the exhaust will hold up long term, but the overall vibrations of the motor are way down. You used to be able to watch the motor visibly rock front and back while idling and when reving the motor. That is no longer the case. I gotta think thats better for everything on the bike.
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Hootowl
Posted on Tuesday, November 07, 2017 - 08:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I donít know. The engine vibrates. The isolators keep the frame from vibrating. The exhaust is connected to the engine, not the frame. Definitely need to fix the isolator (the rear head may be contacting the fuel tank) but I donít think itís the cause of the exhaust issue, now that Iíve thought more thoroughly about it.
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S1owner
Posted on Tuesday, November 07, 2017 - 09:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The more violently the engine vibrates it will induce more stress to the bolted on accessories and fatigue parts at its weak point.
They all work together so they all play a part
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Upthemaiden
Posted on Tuesday, November 07, 2017 - 09:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I was wondering, with the frame sagging that far past the isolator, is there a chance the frame is resting on the rear header?

I replaced my front isolator about 2 months ago. I know you should do both at the same time, but my front had a tear, and I knew I wouldn't have time to pull apart the whole rear before the season was over. I actually felt like the new front isolator increased vibrations, most notably at WOT in 1st gear. Hopefully adding in the new rears will help even things out a little.
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Oopezoo
Posted on Tuesday, November 07, 2017 - 10:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I haven't noticed a big change in vibration while actually riding it since I updated the isolators. In fact, it may have gotten worse, as it puts my right foot to sleep after about 45mins.

BUT, I did notice a huge difference in motor movement while the bike is sitting still. Whether that is idling before a ride or sitting at a stoplight. It just doesn't move around as much in the frame now.
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Tuesday, November 07, 2017 - 10:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hard to say with just the one picture but it looks to me as though the isolator isn't in its "home" correctly.
Like the roll pin isn't in the little hole or something.
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Upthemaiden
Posted on Tuesday, November 07, 2017 - 10:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If that's all that's wrong with the isolator, it would be an easy fix considering the X1's have the removable side plate. Pull the plate off, put a jack under the swingarm mounting block and try lifting it up until it's centered in the mounting block.
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Hootowl
Posted on Tuesday, November 07, 2017 - 11:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If the left side is positioned correctly, yeah...it's that simple. But those are the old style isolators, and I'll bet the one pictured has been damaged by its ordeal. Best to swap them both.
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