| Author | Message | ||
     Egagnon086 |
Yes 2.5 quarts, for some reason my phone kinda cut out a section of my text. Thanks, hope to be back out on the road soon. | ||
| Hootowl |
Hot engine, just shut off, the oil level should be no higher than half way between the marks on the dip stick, I'd start with two, and go from there. It's a dry sump. If there's oil in the tank, you're not out of oil. | ||
| Egagnon086 |
Got every thing good and buttoned up. Replaced the giant oval air cleaner with the forcewinder, now I have knee room.  Also, Just 2 questions, when checking the oil is it normal for it to look bubbly on the dip stick when you check right after you shut the bike off? This bike has a 190/50 metzler M5, it is really wide, Like the tire cover wont fit over it. What is the stock size? | ||
| Pontlee77 |
Stock tyres is 170/60/17 If you use PM rims that are a bit wider 180/55/17 will work fine. | ||
| S1owner |
Depending on the tires they are all a little diffrent 190 will fit pm wheels. You can put any size that can be swueshed in to any wheel. But it changes the designed profile of the tire. | ||
| Egagnon086 |
I have the PM wheels, I just noticed that the cover wont fit, that the belt is about 1/4" away from the tire. It handles ok, but I think that's because this tire is pretty "sticky" when hot. I'm sure I'm gonna need a new back tire sooner than later... | ||
| S1owner |
I ran a 190 pilot with no issues the hugger fit | ||
| Egagnon086 |
It fits over, but rubs. I'm sure if I run it longer it will "clearance" itself. I guess all tires are slightly different. | ||
| S1owner |
Do not run it Tires swell as they get warm Bad things will happen | ||
| Akbuell |
Re the bubbly oil: Dry sump engine, with the oil tank higher than the crankcase. The scavenge (or return) side of the oil pump has a greater capacity or volume than the feed (or pressure) side, to prevent oil build up in the crankcase. Since it can pump more oil out than gets pumped in, air gets mixed into the return line and causes the bubbles you see. Hope this helps, Dave | ||
| Egagnon086 |
Gotcha S1owner, I rather like Sans tire cover. And Akbuell, Thanks for the info, I was kinda concerned about that one. I hope to stay a happy Bueller, I'm all smiles since I've been riding it. | ||
| Hootowl |
It's a positive displacement pump, so it will happily pump air if there's no oil to move. | ||
| K12pilot |
Nice job. | ||
| Midknyte |
Also to note, you can check the oil level on the X1 while the engine is running. This is something, as a rule, that I never do for not knowing if I will end up bathed in oil, but the mech at my shop told me that it is fine / possible... And indeed I have done so. | ||
| Egagnon086 |
So, I rode to work this morning an on my way out I noticed it looked "wet" underneath. I don't see any oil leaking from up top or near the filter. Do these shocks/reservoirs tend to leak? If that's it can it be rebuilt? | ||
| S1owner |
Pm me for Buellistics oil 101 write ups | ||
| S1owner |
Yes the shocks are orone to leaking. Yes racetech can rebuild but its a mixed bag some had luck some leaked again There are three options Penske- very nice big bucks Works- same as above Or these which appearvto be a good way to go plus supports a Buell supporter http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/800369.html?1485196236 | ||
| Egagnon086 |
I think I lucked out, it looks to be the cam cover gasket that's leaking. If I take this off will it be full of oil. Should I drain any thing or just remove the cover over a pan? Should I use a gasket or just some rtv/yamabond? Thanks again all for all the info. | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
Before removing the cam cover ,you need to remove/release the rocker boxes to release the tension from the tappets on the cams. And there is most of the time a small bit of oil ,so a dripping pan is good enough. And a new gasket is the only good way to do this. | ||
| Egagnon086 |
I've watched some videos online where they remove the timing stuff and just remove the cover. That way the gears all stay in place. Has any tried this? | ||
| Steveford |
Not me. Follow the service manual to the letter and you'll be better off with these bikes. | ||
| Mmmi_grad |
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sovEn9zlhVw Some people do this and screw up. Some people do this and remember first to take off the timing cover. If you want to try and cheat the Service Manual and not remove the rocker boxs again you should rotate engine until the timing mark is at TDC timing mark in the middle. Need to make sure you are on Ignition too. So rotate the motor and time the engine. When spark is sent or testlight lights then you are at TDC Power Stroke.Most of the pressure will be off of the cams. Leave the engine there and carefully take off the cam cover. Before you do this. Remove the oil pump and look up into the hole to inspect the oil gear. If it is not gold you will need to buy a new Gold color oil gear. You will need the pinion shaft tool too about $45.00. When you take the cover off you can then change the oil pimp gear. Dont waste alot of time with this stuff open and apart. You want to get the gear changed and the cover back on in the same day or two at the most. Use a small amount of honda bond for insurance and get your cam cover bolted back on. Get a helper if you can. You cannot make a mistake here. | ||
| Egagnon086 |
Any idea what this gold gear part number is. I'll be working on it hopefully this weekend. The bike is all original with less than 8k miles. I'll try and drop the pump tomorrow and check. Thanks for the heads up. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I tried to do the cam cover without removing the rocker boxes on my M2. Managed to get it off, but no way it was going back on. And it's hard on the bushings. You can do just one rocker box with the other rocker box at TDC to relieve all spring pressure. If you take off the "correct" rocker box, the cam timing will be as per the manual. if you take off the wrong one, the picture won't be right. So you can actually remove the wrong one, but be careful not to let the cams come out with the cover, they have to stay meshed and in the cases. And this can be hard to do. Since it's a tube, taking a rocker box off is pretty easy. Get out the angle grinder, shorten an allen key, and just do it right. | ||
| Egagnon086 |
I can remove the rocker boxes, I actually just had them off to replace all the gaskets. Just frustrated that I just had them off and now this. I guess as you seal up the leaky parts the oil finds the next weakest area. Oh well. Does anyone have a part number for the "Gold gear"? | ||
| Reepicheep |
Looks like it was 26391-06 May have been superseded since then. http://badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/3842/66 5172.html?1327329773 Drop Lance a note at St. Paul HD. He will probably know it off of the top of his head. lkugler@stpaulhd.com | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
Before pulling it apart again ,check if there isn't a oil line leaking in that area. That air hose is not very flexible ,so it could be leaking at the oil pump. | ||
| Egagnon086 |
I replaced all the "Air hose" that was used for the oil lines with the correct hose. Its not leaking. The "blue hose" that you see is the vent line, again no leaks there. I can visibly see it leaking from the cam cover gasket just above the pump. Thanks again Reepicheep for the info. | ||
| Egagnon086 |
So the gear on mine looks fine, but is definitely steel. So I'm gonna go ahead and order the new gear and a holder from hammer performance. Anyone have good results from them? | ||
| Williamscottrobertson |
I ordered the gear from new castle harley $75, the holder from amazon for $45, Jim's. Haven't done the swap yet. Also have jims meganut to install but don't have a pulley holder tool. |
