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Buell Forum » Old School Buell » M2 Cyclone » Best trans and engine oil for M2 « Previous Next »

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Damit_steve
Posted on Wednesday, October 12, 2016 - 03:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hay folks. I'm new to the Buell game ( this is my first v-twin ) . Just bought a 99 'M2 with 10k ion the clock for 2500. Hopefully I didn't overpay, I don't have a lot of knowledge with Buells just that I've wanted one since I was a kid. I always change fluids and do a general check up on a bike when I first get it. Any recommendations on tranny oil and engine oil? It did come with a manual for 99-01 lightning I think. Guy I got it from said its basically the same except for mine is not F.I. I hope I'm posting this in the right place, forgive me if I'm not.
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Hootowl
Posted on Wednesday, October 12, 2016 - 04:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Essentially the same, yes. Different cams, carb vs. FI. Obvious differences in body work, etc. but the guts of the motors are pretty much the same.

Oil...I'm not (very) religious. I use any fully synthetic 20w50 in both engine and transmission. Currently, it's Mobil1 because that's what I found at the store.
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Jim2
Posted on Wednesday, October 12, 2016 - 08:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Welcome. I read your profile. The barrel where the clutch cable goes into primary will break easily if over tightened. There is a small "O" ring that may also need to be replaced.

Check primary level. If it is high keep an eye on it after your fluid changes. If engine oil gets low and trans oil gets high after awhile of riding you have a bad main sprocket shaft oil seal. It's fairly common problem.

Also check the primary chain tensioner when your in there. Old style is too thin and breaks after awhile. New style is thick and doesn't break.
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Damit_steve
Posted on Wednesday, October 12, 2016 - 10:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hay Jim Thanks a lot for the info on clutch barrel, I'm going to do a fluid change tomorrow and watch it and see what happens. If I end up having to replace the clutch cable do most local Harley shops still have parts for these or does it interchange with like a sportster or something like that. Forgive my ignorance
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Jim2
Posted on Wednesday, October 12, 2016 - 11:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm not really sure. I can tell you the part number for the 99 Buell M2 clutch cable is 38656-96Y, and the O-ring for the end is part number 11179 .

Interesting to me, the clutch cable for the 2000 M2 is a different number(38656-00Y). The O-ring is the same, so maybe the lever is different or the length is Different?

Maybe someone here, or a parts guy can tell us if they are different. I think I heard something about a Teflon inner tubing on an upgraded Cable? HD is pretty good about upgrading parts.

You should know that when HD shut down Buell only some of the dealers continued to support Buell warranties and parts. Only HD dealers that supported Buell will be able to still get you Buell specific parts. Don't expect them to have any sitting in Stock, they likely won't for any that are Buell specific. I believe you are better off ordering from Badweb sponsors. I prefer Lance at St. Paul HD/Buell now that we have lost Al at American Sport Bike (RIP American Sport Bike). I always used both of them. I still go to my local HD non-Buell dealers for engine parts since some of that is in Stock. They also always have the nuts and bolts in stock.

If you end up with a new clutch cable keep the rubber boot that goes over the adjuster as a spare, you can't buy those separate without trying the aftermarket.

Please post a picture or two of your new ride.
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Jim2
Posted on Wednesday, October 12, 2016 - 11:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Oh, get a parts book ASAP. The 1999 Cyclone M2 Parts Catalog Is P.N. 99572-99Y. They have good drawings that are helpful and you really need to speak in part numbers to get things right. The Factory Service Manual is a must. There is one for a 96 lightning I believe here in the knowledge vault that can be usefully for most engine stuff but get one for your bike when you can.
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Hootowl
Posted on Thursday, October 13, 2016 - 09:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Also...do not fill the engine oil past the middle of the high and low marks, checked with hot engine, immediately after shutting it off.
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Damit_steve
Posted on Tuesday, November 01, 2016 - 03:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok so I got my clutch cable installed and changed the primary fluid last week. Everything seems to be working properly. Luckily my local Harley dealership here in Little Rock is happy to order me any Buell parts I need which is a huge relief. So I got the clutch cable and primary oil for like 75 bucks..( including a new o-ring. Having trouble trying to post a picture of my bike. Every time I try the site says the image is to large to post. I'm an electrician so I do a lot of my web stuff in my phone. Maybe I need to do it from my computer at home. Anyway thanks again for all the info everybody!!!!!
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Alfau
Posted on Wednesday, November 02, 2016 - 06:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

main sprocket shaft oil seal. It's fairly common problem.
If you push the RPM up to and beyond the red line that seal can pop and the motor oil can drain into that transmission case and eventually all over the bike.

Stay below red line is best.

Also gravity allows the engine oil to drain past the oil pump into the bottom end of the motor causing a "low oil level on the oil tank, dip stick" lol.

If the oil is showing low, Warm the motor then check oil level again.
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