| Author | Message | ||
     Pontlee77 |
Sorted out a little Leak i had i'm going to put new oil, i have a question as measuring with the bike up rigth and heating the engine, has any one measured with the bike on the side stand and cold, i know it will show a lot less, but i'm sure it's an option, that can make life easier. Thanks | ||
| Harleyelf |
The real worry is that if it is cold, there might be oil inside the engine, which will make you overfilled when it is pumped back into the tank. You can add the oil when it is cold if you drained it while hot. Measure the oil before adding it to the bike. Start with two liters, run the bike for a minute or two, and check the dipstick with the bike upright. Add enough to bring the oil just over the lower mark, about another half liter. | ||
| Ltbuell |
..agree with Harleyelf...warmed up/bike upright and just a bit above the low mark/line works the best...any more and you have "issues".This has worked the best for me.LT | ||
| Pontlee77 |
I drained while cold, so i guess there must have about half a litre in the engine? Thanks, i'll do as suggested. | ||
| Harleyelf |
If it was cold after only one day of sitting, you may not have oil in the crankcase at all; much depends on how clean the oil was and how many times it sat for more than a month in the course of its lifetime. If you're concerned about some sort of contamination in the existing oil, you can run it until warm with one liter of the cheapest car oil you can find. Just be sure to drain all the cheap oil out while hot and change the filter. If you're willing to blend the existing sump oil with the new, add a liter, run until warm, and fill to just above the low mark. | ||
| Pontlee77 |
The oil had maybe 500 miles but i in had some sweeting form the oil cooler some decided to take it of and celan it and make sure all was well tightned. I judged how much oil i removed and addenda the same amount and a bit more knowingnthenoil filter had that bit more of oil, so i'm think all is fine. Thanks for the help. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I wonder why they bothered to put the upper mark on there? When I first got my bike, I always topped it off to that mark. I thought it burned oil. Nope. I was topping it off when cold too! All of my right boots and right legs of jeans got that oil. It took me an embarrassing amount of time to finally figure out that I was just dumping oil for no good reason. | ||
| Charger22 |
Did the same thing while I also had a crank seal gone. Oil everywhere. | ||
| Scott_in_nh |
While on the subject of oil capacity, you can gain some buy using the long Dyna filter and you also get more filter area as well. I buy chrome ones from the local HD dealer for about 12 bucks | ||
| Cupcake_mike |
I buy the long purolators for $3 from the auto parts store....1777 i think? Its the filter for a yaris. | ||
| Scott_in_nh |
Here is the thing Mike, if you are happy with that I am not looking to argue. I will simply point out that these are low pressure oiling systems and I have concerns of when the bypass would open in a car filter. I am more than willing to spend $9 more for a filter from the OEM designed for the engine it is going on and one that actually looks good (if you are interested in having a good looking engine) YMMV PS - also worth noting that the HD filter is made in the USA (Message edited by scott in nh on August 25, 2016) | ||
| Pontlee77 |
I prefer the oil filters the can be cleaned and reused such as scotts, the filter thinner and when cleaning you can see what comes out from the engine. | ||
| Scott_in_nh |
Pontlee I like the idea, but last I checked I don't believe they filter to the same micron level as paper. May not matter, but.... | ||
| Pontlee77 |
Paper 100 micron, reusable 35 micron is the last i Heard, i used one on the Uly i had and no problem at all. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Has anyone actually verified that the bypass is substantially different between the HD and car filters? I have heard that asserted a lot, but I haven't seen it verified, and it sounds like the kind of plausible but perhaps not true story that would make the perfect urban legend. Like synthetic flat spotting bearings because it is too slippery. Given the volume of manufacturing, I suspect the filters you buy for the Yaris and the filters you buy from Harley rolled off of the same assembly line and went to different paint application lines. And does the bypass ever operate in any cases before the filter is totally plugged anyway? So would it matter in a Buell engine that is anything other than already ruined? | ||
| Scott_in_nh |
Has anyone actually verified that the bypass is substantially different between the HD and car filters? I have heard that asserted a lot, but I haven't seen it verified, and it sounds like the kind of plausible but perhaps not true story that would make the perfect urban legend. Like synthetic flat spotting bearings because it is too slippery. Not that I have seen, but let me ask you this - what pressures do our oil systems operate at? What pressure do car systems operate at? Given the volume of manufacturing, I suspect the filters you buy for the Yaris and the filters you buy from Harley rolled off of the same assembly line and went to different paint application lines. I'll bet that $3 filter is built offshore, HD filters are built in the USA. And does the bypass ever operate in any cases before the filter is totally plugged anyway? So would it matter in a Buell engine that is anything other than already ruined? Hopefully not, but.... | ||
| Scott_in_nh |
Paper 100 micron, reusable 35 micron is the last i Heard, i used one on the Uly i had and no problem at all. Nope, cheap paper ~50 micron, HD Super premium 5 is 5 micron. Their std. filter is 29 micron. I also don't believe the Scott's has as much surface area, nor does it add much if any capacity |
