| Author | Message | ||
     Jsteven117 |
Hi, New to group. I have a 97 S3 that I bought new. It has the paint bubbling issue and I have read the threads about needing to seal the tank. I talked to a Custom Painter and he said he would still be weary to paint the tank seeing as it has been doing it for so long. He recommended replacing the tank with a new tank that may be made of different material or sealing a new tank. My question is, this seems extravagant to me to stop the bubbling issue, can I get buy with sealing it and repainting it?  | ||
| S1owner |
Yes you can,. There are specific steps on this forum several diffrent ones ect ugly. The one thing they all have in common is cure time the longer you let it sit the better. | ||
| Ralph |
The short answer is - no, don't seal the tank. Nobody has found anything that will seal, much less stick. You can replace the tank with an aluminum tank. They are custom made, take nearly a year and cost more than your bike is worth (by the way, nice bike). Use GOOD paint with good prep and like Ken said, let it cure....as in months before you put gas in it. | ||
| Jolly |
I've tried lining one..... Peeled right out.... It's was a horrid mess!!!! Proper prep, let it cure a looooong time... And if you're fortunate enough to live somewhere where ethanol is a "choice".... Don't use it!!! I recently moved to OK, and you can get ethanol free gas!!!  | ||
| S1owner |
I was assuming sealing the outside of the tank before paint!!!! Do not seal the inside so far a few companies claim it will work but no one has had sucess | ||
| Buell_bert |
I used to never seal any of my new tanks. I tried it a couple years ago and will never do it again. It was OK for a few years and then it broke up and peeled off the inside of the tank and plugged up my filter numerous times. I am still pulling chunks of the crap out thru the fill hole with a extended stainless tweezers or long needle nose pliers. | ||
| Buelliedan |
the type of paint used is critical and do not put any stickers under the clear coat. | ||
| S1owner |
Use the raised adhesive stickers also not the flat ones | ||
| K12pilot |
Almost 20 years to join the asylum?? You must be a sneaky bugger hiding so long!! There are a million conspiracy theory's on why some bubble & some don't bubble, and how to repair them. I don't have the answer or am I an expert, but as mentioned, nothing will stick & stay in place inside the plastic tanks. I learned the HARD way when in '98 my S1W went to IMMACULATE to WTF in about an hour parked in my driveway on a hot summer day after a spirited outing. Now... I try to never park in the sun with painted tanks & I always leave my gas cap released unless my bikes are moving. Pick your attack, DE GAS the crap out of it, rinse with a degreaser IN & OUT, paint it in the fall, let it sit all winter cool & dry, replace the fuel ring a couple weeks after painting, NOT the cap. OR.. personally I would find another tank that has not bubbled paint that one & hang yours the wall. OR.. just ride it till the wheels fall off The grape Kool aid is my personal favorite. Welcome to the madness!!!! | ||
| Jsteven117 |
Haha it took me twenty years to find this Website LOL, was using HDforums forever but not much info for the old Buells on there. Thanks for all the info, glad I didn't seal it yet. I saw the list of PPG products to paint with I guess that is the answer. I can let it sit for months I have another ride. | ||
| Jsteven117 |
I am a slow learner, it took me 15 years to get it to stop popping. Finally found a guy with a link to a procedure for CV carbs and a link to a place that sold all the Jets and stuff. After that it runs better than it ever did! | ||
| Jolly |
Have you done the standard list of "upgrades"? Most tubers benefit from the following: Oil pump drive gear (hardened) RTV the stator plug as it passes through the case Upgraded exhaust mount "Y-Bone" Upgraded lower rocker box gaskets (original were paper) XB rocker box covers-with catch can Billet front motor mount original was a V shape and a lot would break on the right arm, sometimes causing damage to the head Starter gasket (original was paper and leaked) Upgraded oil pump gasket (again-original was paper) I like to replace the push rod tube assemblies with Zippers collapsible push rod tube assemblies with billet bases, provides positive pressure against the upper and lower face to ensure no leaks- I buy them from NRHS | ||
| Jsteven117 |
First I have heard of these upgrades, bike only has 6800 miles on it. I only ride it when I want to scare myself LOL. | ||
| Kc_zombie |
Here is some good reading for you... http://www.doncasto.net/buellstuff.html The conventional wisdon applies to most tubers up to 1998. (Message edited by kc_zombie on July 15, 2016) | ||
| Jsteven117 |
Thanks, very helpful. I did the carb to those spec's already, CV Peformance actually has a Knerled end replacement air/fuel mixture needle that prevents multiple burns on your hands from trying to get a screwdriver in there! | ||
| Jolly |
These bikes were "plagued" by a few earl HD material and engine engineering solutions than can easily be remedied with a little work and relatively low cost parts (all things relative... Right?) Think of the cost of parts as an "investment?" In the bike you love to ride (winning approach) not as a cost comparison next to the market value of the bike (losing approach)..... Those relentless small oil leaks can be solved and a few things to prevent future issues, all keep these things in great shape! | ||
| Jayvee |
Excepting perhaps the Y-mount for the front of the muffler, its probably ok to wait for the symptom to appear before doing the work, hey its summertime! But you might want to collect at least the rockerbox gaskets beforehand. That's a sure bet. And some intake seals (3-piece set) which isn't on the list, but will need certainly need replacing at some point. If you get the air/fuel knob, might want to look at the stainless version. I dropped the brass one on the concrete floor and even though I watched it land sideways the needle point bent way over, basically ruined. Shouldn't have to set it too often anyway, and its the same price as this fancy screwdriver, which I got instead of another knob adjuster screw: https://www.cyclegear.com/accessories/motion-pro-p ilot-screw-adjusting-tool (Message edited by jayvee on July 18, 2016) | ||
| Jsteven117 |
I did the intake seals once already, bent the manifold and had to get a new one. Also had front brake lock up after stopping due to brake fluid going bad after about 5 years. I rebuilt the Master cylinder and the front caliper also. |
