| Author | Message | ||
     X1bully |
I'm going to start the switch delete and want to make sure I do it right. Might be the issue with my fuse popping. Do I just cut the wire right behind both switches and connect the wires? I had removed my horn, left those wires open no horn, and installed the integrated signal relay harness and the fuse for rear light,horn, and signal fuse popped after a short ride. I've check if any metal part of wires were touching and everything is electric taped. So I put everything back to stock and it still did it. I noticed I had the ground wires under the tail arranged differently. One loop is not movable it just goes around the seat lock. The other I had moved so it tucks under the seat so it is still touching the seat frame except on the other side. So I just moved it to under the seat so it just touches the plastic seat pan because I removed the plastic under the seat. Hope this fixes it. One more question if I leave the horn and signals disconnected would the fuse pop? Since it is a open circuit. I've had other bikes where this would not pop the fuse. | ||
| Jmanscotch |
When I did my kickstand switch delete, I did just what you're thinking; cut the two wires up close to the underneath of the bike (as to avoid the wires dangling and being seen now that they aren't in use) and bring the two ends of the wires together, solder them together and shrink wrap them for protection. You can butt connector them (use one side of the connector for both wires) and cover in tape if that's more whatcha got laying around. 'removed horn and left those wires open' - you should definitely tape those up, if they're expose they could be shorting out to each other or on the frame/some ground and pop a fuse. Leaving the horn and signals disconnected (and protected so they don't short) won't cause the fuse to pop. In this scenario; the circuit is open and thus no current will even flow through the fuse. If the wires aren't protected and they short to the frame/a grounded piece, that's when the circuit is completed and the current flow out paces the fuse capacity). | ||
| Alfau |
If you wash your bike or get caught in the rain everything will short until it dries out. Not made for bad weather at all. | ||
| Hootowl |
What a load of crap. I rode my X1 almost exclusively in the rain (I lived in Seattle, and commuted to Bremerton) for 50,000 miles. I never had a wiring/switch issue. Proper maintenance goes a long way. | ||
| Alfau |
What Proper maintenance would that be? | ||
| X1bully |
I was thinking of cutting it close to the switch on the clutch and kickstand leaving the wire long, folding and zip tying it. I'll tape the horn wires maybe it is that but it has the rubber L pieces still on them. Still happened when I put the horn back. Ok that's what I was thinking about open circuits. The bike is dry and weather is nice when the fuse goes out. I tried no signals and no horn, actually drove for a couple minutes and with some acceleration the fuse popped. I did keep the clutch in when in N. Got to the gas station replaced fuse and it popped in a few seconds of riding. Kinda like something moved. Trying to narrow it down. I got Oberon signals to install today. | ||
| Jmanscotch |
I don't have good ideas except for what I think anytime a new problem arises after I tinker with something: go back and double, hell TRIPLE check those things I disturbed. I'm guessing it's not the horn being disconnected, likely the relay (could be bad...would be less likely but definitely possible and easy to test) or those grounds you spoke of. Break out the voltmeter and check electrical continuity on each circuit, resistance to ground, etc. Good luck! Keep us posted. (Message edited by Jmanscotch on April 27, 2016) | ||
| S1owner |
Alfau you have no clue what you are talking about. Just because you were not capable does not mean the bikes bad or the brand it means you are not capable! If you dont like the bikes dont visit the fofum. | ||
| Buell_bert |
If you wash your bike or get caught in the rain everything will short until it dries out. Not made for bad weather at all. I do not agree with this at all. I have washed many bikes and cars and other things plus used water and baking soda to clean batteries and never had it just SHORT OUT. I just poured a GLASS of water and poked both probes of a VOM meter in it and had no continuity measurement at all. I even poured some salt in it to give the water some minerals and still nothing. Then I added some soap and still nothing. Keeping a bike and battery clean is the best thing you can do. I usually wash the vehicle and fire that pig up and let it dry to some point. During the winter I use a drive thru wash place that has an under body wash then in the spring take a pressure washer to it gently to wash the crud back down then start it up and let it dry. That is my story and I'll stick with it. | ||
| X1bully |
Bypassed both kick stand and clutch switch. Keeping the horn disconnected for now but taped the ends. Thinking of adding a slim one and extending it to the front. It doesn't need a horn though pretty loud with the race system. The Oberon signals didn't come with bullet ends so I will have to get some and install it before I take a ride will update when it's done. It may be the air temp wire near the sensor in the air filter. I noticed the rubber of the wire melted a little bit before and some wire exposed and taped it. It was a while ago though. Gonna have to take a look at that to. | ||
| Pontlee77 |
Check fuse box for corrosión use some wt40 on the fuses. Make sure batery cables are tight. Two easy steps, to delete from the list. | ||
| Alfau |
I don't care either way. Fact is these problems are common place, too common to blame me like it is my fault. Use the search facility and see for yourself. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Don't feed the troll Alfau. Sidestand safety switch has been a very common failure on Buells. And Kawasaki's. And Yamahas. And every other bike that puts a mechanical switch on the bottom of a motorcycle. Easy to fix, easy to bypass, slightly dangerous to not have operating. | ||
| Hootowl |
People without problems do not post about their non-problems on support forums, only people who do. Buell sold over 100,000 motorcycles. Find a significant percentage of that number complaining about their bikes and I'll go along with your 'fact' about Buells. The fact is, all mechanical things can, and sometimes do, break. If you give a crap about your bike, and have any sort of mechanical sympathy, you'll properly maintain it. That includes lubing cables, and spraying WD40 (or similar) in places where you don't want water to collect and cause corrosion (if, like me, you're dumb enough to ride in the rain a lot). I'm really tired of hearing about how much you hate Buells. Please go find another punch bowl to poop in. If Buells suck as much as you claim, I'm sure you can find a forum full of like-minded folks with whom you can sit around and bitch. | ||
| Akbuell |
Which fuse is blowing? Might help in locating the problem. Were it my bike, I would have the wiring diagram out and start tracing the appropriate circuit from the fuse box to the various places it 'serves'. My wild guess is that there is a loose or corroded connector somewhere, or a chaffed or rubbed wire, again somewhere in the circuit. I know, basically generic info, but my experience with solving electrical problems has lead me to start at the beginning and work my way through. Ends up being quicker and much less aggravating in the long run. Hope this helps, Dave | ||
| Court |
I did test riding of Buells for years . . have ridden in 44 of the contiguous 48 states. I always carry . . .still have in all my Aerostich riding suits . . . a small "jumper" for the side stand switch. Just took an old switch, tied the wires together and shrink wrapped it. Any "no start" would prompt an immediate investigation of the side stand switch first. The jumper would have me back on the road in less than 60 seconds. You learn a lot when you are being paid by the mile. :-) | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
One of my favorite tricks for finding a fuse blaster is to take one of your already blown fuses and solder lengths of wire+a headlight bulb to it. Headlights take about 5A and so you can watch the light to see if you can wiggle wires to make it go out. PS: Worst kickstand switch arrangement I had was my 1989 KLR250. I didn't even know it was there until it failed. Why did it fail? It was under a dirtbike with no protection at all as I remember. My X1 stand switch failed after 45,000 but that Kawasaki POS stranded me a school at 8000 miles. | ||
| Buelldualsport |
The wires for the clutch and sidestand need to be joined togeather and sealed. The system is designed for both switches to be I the Open Position. Just cutting them is not a good option GL | ||
| X1bully |
The clutch and kickstand bypass worked. Seemed to fire up easier vs when I had to hold the clutch in. I just twisted the wires together and electo taped them will do something more permanent later. Got the signals hooked up. Checked the air sensor wire it was just the outer rubber and a tiny bit of heat wrap that got rubbed off. Air sensor wires not exposed still had rubber coating on them. Took it for a ride. Fuse popped sooner than last time but it was a few minutes. Questioning the motodynamic led tail light now; it works as it should when I install a new fuse though. Don't have my stock taillight to rule this one out. Checked all wires none exposed. Usually something like this should be fairly easy. I must admit I'm kinda stumped. Fuse box looks clean nothing corroded. Maybe something near the front cylinder? It has started to weep at the front rocker tubes and there is some oil in front lately. That was not like that before. I'm at 16.5k mi.. Will post some pics. | ||
| X1bully |
Noticed this had a broken clip I think only plastic though. What does it do? signals?   fuse box upper left with out fuse is the one that keeps popping.  Harness for lights zipped to this ground. Want to get the shorty tail frame from germany..  Started to weep here lately.  Fixed this one with gasket maker. Rear cylinder base gasket.  This shifter one had been weeping to.  | ||
| Steveford |
Yes, that's the turn signal flasher. | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
That steel security cable isn't the ground ,right? It's only supporting the harness and other wires!? I would make sure that there is a good ground! It can make a lot of electric gremlins go away. And the weeping gaskets is because they are old. To fix that you have to replace them. | ||
| Akbuell |
OK. If I am reading things correctly, that is your Acc fuse, which feeds the ong/wh wire in the harness. So all of the ong/wh wires, and the appliances they serve, are suspect. Given the status of the turn signal flasher, which is on that circuit, that is currently your prime suspect. I would start there. I would also remove the tie wraps connecting your taillight wiring branch from the helmet lock wire. Just sayin . . . Hope this helps, Dave | ||
| X1bully |
So in theory if I unplug the signal flasher piece and ride.. If the fuse pops it's not the signal flasher? There is a piece of plastic in the flasher rattling around doesn't appear to be any metal moving around in there. The plastic inside moving around could have moved something though. Reason it broke is I installed a cortech micro tank bag and it's the rear strap that goes over it. Yes I read paper gaskets. Well I'm just gonna wash and fill. lol! I guess I'll limit the riding on this bike. Helmet lock wires?? Kinda makes sense I see two of these loops and some cut outs under the seat. Interesting. I'll unzip. No options to attach the wiring to since I removed the under tail maybe some Velcro to the side of the frame. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I think the flasher is your problem. I just verified mine gets +12V when the ignition is turned on even if the flashers aren't on. If your metal mounting tab is touching something hot in there, you've got it. P.S. Why did you tie the harness to your helmet lock cable? | ||
| X1bully |
Ah hadn't realized it till now. I still had the metal mounting tab in that broken flasher part. So the metal tab maybe the connector shorting it out since it is loose in there. I don't have a undertail, license plate is connected to a plate that bolts to the taillight, so the wiring harness has nothing to keep it from hanging. There are no mounting points for the wiring harness inside of the tail frame. I had it attached to the helmet cable for a long time so I don't think it's the problem. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I wasn't blaming the helmet lock for your fuse blaster issue. It looks like all of the wires in that bundle were covered up. My X1 rattled its turnsignal relay thing rattled itself loose like that years ago and I fixed it "temporarily" with epoxy. When I was poking around there just now, I saw my fix. It was fixed in 2004 I think  | ||
| X1bully |
Thanks Nate I think it might be it especially if current flows though it even when not in use. Makes sense because of the ride that was a few minutes till I accelerated and it popped on the fwy. So my plan is to try to remove the plastic piece that's still inside the flasher and then just tape it up with electro tape for now. I have to get my custom air filter bracket welded, noticed a crack in the corner when I took it off to inspect the air sensor wire. Will have a chance to get everything done after the weekend. Will update with pics of the Oberon signals they look pretty good on the bike. | ||
| Alfau |
call me a troll raemasheep. Go play with your little willie a bit more. I was trying to help. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Which of these comments are the ones that help? >If you wash your bike or get caught in the rain everything will short until it dries out. >Not made for bad weather at all. >What Proper maintenance would that be? >I don't care either way. >Fact is these problems are common place, >too common to blame me like it is my fault. >Use the search facility and see for yourself. Time to look in a mirror and ask yourself what are you hoping to accomplish here? |
