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Nitrokeeb
Posted on Sunday, February 21, 2016 - 08:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm process of going back to a stock exhaust on my '02 M2. Well, stock with the exception of being all stainless. S3 header, S3 stainless muffler, stainless flanges. I even have some stainless exhaust studs on order. I read on another forum that V8 carburetor studs could be used for exhaust studs. Found a set in stainless on Amazon for $15. I hate mild steel on exhaust. The heat and moisture are a bad combination.

I have a few questions though. The service manual shows a spacer fitting between the two tabs on the front of the muffler. Anyone have a picture of one? I'm sure I can scrounge something up from the hardware store, but I'm not sure if it's supposed to be metal or rubber.

Also I can't find anything in the service manual on replacing exhaust studs. Luckily they all came out in one piece. Should the new ones be screwed in until they bottom? Is there a torque spec?

Thanks!
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Jayvee
Posted on Monday, February 22, 2016 - 02:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Its metal, I had to replace mine. I could take the measurements, I don't think any dimension is too critical. You should be able to find a stainless one.
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Brother_in_buells
Posted on Monday, February 22, 2016 - 02:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

ARP 200-2401 studs
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/669332.html?1380923390

Screw them in with some copper grease on them till they bottom out.
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Phelan
Posted on Monday, February 22, 2016 - 03:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I disagree with the copper grease statement. I understand wanting to be able to remove them, but the premise of them being there is to have a steel to steel wear point when installing and removing exhaust, rather than a steel into aluminum wear point, in which case wears out the aluminum every time it is installed and removed. Copper grease will not keep the stud in tight with vibration and exhaust removal, and as such will just add wear to the bosses they are screwed into. If doing that method, might as well just install the exhaust clamps with bolts straight into the head.
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Phelan
Posted on Monday, February 22, 2016 - 03:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

TD:LR, use loctite when installing those studs
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Nitrokeeb
Posted on Monday, February 22, 2016 - 04:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I measured the space between the two tabs on the front of the muffler, and it came out to just over .8 inches. I'm thinking the hardware store sells metal spacers, but probably come in .25 increments. Maybe a .75 spacer plus a fender washer will fill the space.
The studs I ordered are the same as these.
http://professional-products.com/intake-manifolds/ accessories/carb-stud-kit-5-16-18-x-5-16-24-x-1-70
I've heard the anti-seize vs locktight debate. I'm inclined to go with anti-seize. I don't think locktight can will hold up to the heat anyway.
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