| Author | Message | ||
     Johnod |
Anyone know how to remove a roll pin snapped off below the surface of the isolator plate? I hope... | ||
| 4speeder |
You might try using a tap to cut some threads into it then screwing a screw into it and pulling it out using a pair of side cutters as a lever or if you have a electric welder you could put a rod or old piece of clothes hangar or something that will fit down into the pin and stick the other end in the stinger then quickly touch the ground cable to the isolator plate so it will weld the rod to the pin, then you can grab the rod and pull it out. If you can't get it out as a last resort you could run a drill down through the hole in the pin and drill the hole on through then turn the plate over and drill the other side with the larger bit to match the original hole then you will be able to drive the pin out with a punch. All of which are not the greatest ideas, but might be options..... | ||
| Johnod |
Thanks 4 speeder. I find it hard to believe that no one has had this happen before. | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
Johnod ,this happened before and mentioned here! They did the drill through and drive it out method (this was on a x1) | ||
| Jolly |
I had both isolators fail significantly on an x1, sheared off both locator pins..... I lined everything up, used tape to mark indicator lines on both the frame and the isolator so that I could tell if they moved while tightening things up. I installed the isolators and it worked perfectly. I left the tape on both the frame (the access hole to tighten the isolator bolt) and the isolator. I've since ridden the bike quite a bit and the isolators havnt moved a bit. I did a write up here somewhere with photos. Ive posed the question before, do the pins help structurally locate and hold the isolators in place or are they merely to provide locating indexes for installation only. mine have not moved at all since I tried it the way I described above with indexing lines instead of the pins. just a thought on a way to fix it.... it sucked when I found both of mine failed and sheared the pins....this seems to be a working option... | ||
| Jolly |
or... might be some plates out there available from folks that have bought the new plates for the kickstand fix... or I might be buying another set of plates... I could add a set in for you if you are after the best but expensive fix.......  | ||
| Hootowl |
Jolly plates! | ||
| Johnod |
Jolly plates huh,  What I've done is make my own improved kickstand , mounted to the primary. So I don't need the OEM kickstand mount on the left plate. So I bought a set that had the mount hacked off, as I didn't want to hack up the good set which I have. The hacked set has the broken pins, I'll get it sorted. Thanks for all the suggestions, I'm sure one will work. | ||
| Johnod |
Got a suggestion today. Drill plate and isolator in new location, install new pin. Anyone see a problem with that? Seems like an easy effective fix, can't think why it wouldn't work. | ||
| Mcelhaney14 |
Can you drill the old pins out? | ||
| Johnod |
Nope, that was the first thing tried. | ||
| Mcelhaney14 |
If I remember correctly I was able to drill a broken one out of an X1 frame. Heating the plates should help loosen the pins as they are dissimilar metals. Or Here's a crazy idea. MIG weld a nut to the pin then clamp the nut in a vise and twist and pull. I'd use a small nut so you don't arc to the aluminum. It's just a thought, I have no idea how well it would work. | ||
| Johnod |
Welding won't work , pin is below plate surface. |
