| Author | Message | ||
     Johnod |
I see in the book the torque values for the clutch nut, and the front sprocket are, 70-80 lbs (clutch), and 150-165 (front sprocket). However seems I read somewhere that these figures were wrong. Any one know about this? Thanks | ||
| 1313 |
70-80 ft lbs seems to stick in my head for the clutch hub. For the crank nut, there is an updated - higher - spec. Unfortunately I do not recall what it is of the top of my head and I'm about 1,000 miles away from my manuals (where I likely scribbled the info down). As a sanity check, the 1996 S1 pdf located through the Internet Wayback Machine lists the 150-165 ft lbs spec, but I remember the updated spec being higher. This is how my S2 came to have (the first version of) the lightened flywheels, 1313 | ||
| Firemanjim |
Not sure if the updated spec was for the early tubers as it was the XB's that were having their nut come loose and sounding like the bottom end was going out---- | ||
| Buellistic |
OLD SCHOOL: If nuts and bolts are not prepared correctly you will not get the correct torque, THEY WILL COME LOOSE !!! | ||
| Screamer |
190 - 210 ft lbs. for the engine (crankshaft) sprocket nut. | ||
| Johnod |
Screamer you sure about those numbers? I just want to be sure, thanks. | ||
| Buellistic |
That was up-dated to 240-260 ft.lbs. on TT211 - September 16, 2005 ... | ||
| Johnod |
I went looking for TT211, found it, it doesn't apply to S2. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/148030.html?1144020012#POST625691 | ||
| Lynrd |
I think with the S2 you are supposed to tighten it until it strips, then back off a quarter turn.  | ||
| Buellistic |
Look in your PARTS BOOK ... 48235-89 ENGINE SPROCKET(flywheel shaft) 7839 NUT,engine sprocket(flywheel shaft) If these part numbers match, then think about it ??? | ||
| Screamer |
TT211 is for 2003 and later XB and 2004 and later XL. I'm visiting our kids for the holidays and can't rummage to find the "race" communication that recommended the higher torque (which was eventually implemented across the board for tube twins). But, I checked my kid's '99 S3 manual and it states 190-210. XB models had a lighter flywheel assembly which transferred more energy in to the driveline than the late tube frame models, and it also had a higher rev limit (XB9) than tube frame engines. Those were among the reasons for the higher torque figure eventually recommended. Like Buellistic suggests, clean threads and mating surfaces are important. If the nut has come loose but there is no apparent damage to the threads or mating surfaces I'd torque then loosen and re-torque to 210. Unless you modified/lightened the flywheels or are building something that's going to see a lot of high-rpm, 210 should be fine. | ||
| Johnod |
I think you and Buellistic are right. Should I slather the threads with Loctite or will 3-4 drops do the job? | ||
| Screamer |
The late tube frame manuals recommend a few drops of red - which should be fine. | ||
| Davefl |
Do not slather???? I had to replace the crankcase seal on my S2 and a previous "mechanic"  slathered red loctite on the threads and it weeped into the splines.. I had to heat the rotor with a torch to even be able to remove with a puller.. a couple of drops on CLEAN THREADS is all that you need.. I am a bid fan of the gel sticks myself. (Message edited by davefl on December 29, 2014) | ||
| Hughlysses |
I am a bid fan of the gel sticks myself. I am not. I replaced the stator on my 2000 S3 and used gel stick red Locktite on the crankshaft nut. I sold the bike the Buelltours a few months later. As he was riding the bike home, 200 miles away, the crank nut worked loose. He thought the bottom of the engine was coming out. Fortunately, he found a sympathetic HD service department who quickly diagnosed the loose nut and fixed it. I suspect this happened because I didn't get the nut fully torqued before the Locktite began to set up and I broke the "bond" as it was starting to form. Still, I feel like the gel Locktite may have contributed to the problem as I think it sets up quicker than the liquid type and I've stayed away from it since then. | ||
| Two_seasons |
Using Loctite, whether liquid or gel, starts setting up as soon as the "goop" touches the other mating surface. Whenever you use it, torque to spec quickly. If you back off after it starts to set, pull it apart and start over. Never back off Loctite after it starts setting up without re-loctiting! | ||
| 4speeder |
Loctite sets up in the absence of air. You can apply the threadlocker to the fasteners and they can sit out on the bench for days and the product will still be liquid. It begins to set up as soon as you take the air away from it like super glue does. When you assemble the nut to the bolt air cannot reach the loctite so it will immediately start to setup. Two seasons is correct that once you assemble your fastener you need to torque it to spec immediately as the loctite will start to cure. And as he also stated, if you need to loosen the fastener or take it back apart, it is best to clean it again and start over with a fresh application of Loctite. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Dave, had the same thing happen to me. Only it was me that used too much "red". I was concerned I was never going to get that damn rotor off. |
