| Author | Message | ||
     Ezetobebad__uk |
Hi, I was doing about 100 - 110 on my S1 Lightning when I noticed that 4th gear had disappeared when changing down from 5th gear,(it was there in action but was not in actually reving the engine if that makes sense) I changed up & down the box to check it was not a false neutral & it was not. a few miles later after turning into local roads I check it again & 4th gear had reappeared again, I took it out for another thrashing & it seemed ok. Any ideas what the problem is & will it reoccur? thanks ezetobebad | ||
| Johnnyxb9 |
Check the clip on the shifter drum star shaped detent inside primary. my X1 did the same thing. The e-clip fell off. Shifted fine leaned to the right but not when leaned to the left(detent would side on the shaft) | ||
| Ezetobebad__uk |
So,to do what you say will I have to take the gearbox apart? cheers | ||
| Newfie_buell |
Read the Online S1 Manual in the Knowledge Vault!!! Very Detailed and easy | ||
| Captainkirk |
In a nutshell; no. You'll have to pull the primary cover, primary chain and sprocket and the clutch basket. It's not as bad as it sounds, and if, in fact you've cracked (as I did) or lost the e clip, more damage WILL follow. Don't waste any time on this one-as it stands, it's a cheap and easy fix. Let it go, things could get ugly. | ||
| Ezetobebad__uk |
I took the bike for a further ride & Johnny is correct in that the problem seems to occur when the bike is cranked over. I am going to heed the captains advice & get it repaired as soon as possible.How many hours should the job take a skilled mechanic?, should I get anything else checked/changed at the same time & does anybody know of a decent mechanic in London, UK. cheers folks - ezetobebad ....WHY CLEAN IT WHEN YOU CAN RIDE IT?... | ||
| Captainkirk |
Other Things To Look At While In The Shop: 1) Make sure your primary adjuster shoe is the new style (read; heavy duty). Even if it looks fine, change it. I was holding my old one in my hand staring at it before I actually saw the cracks, and it was a clean break in two. 2) Upgrade to the new-style shift drum plate (star-shaped). Shifts are much more positive now. Make sure they replace that nasty little clip. 3) Have the oil pump drive gear checked and replaced if any wear is present or chipped/missing teeth. 4) Make sure they don't use "old stock" paper primary gasket-the new ones are much better. After your first ride, RETORQUE all the primary cover screws or you may end up with primary fluid all over your rear tire. You'll need an inch-pound torque wrench with a torx bit; torque value is 80-110 in/lb (or 9.0-12.4 Nm), well at least for the '99 M2...I can't imagine there being a difference. It's basically the same motor. I would think a *skilled* mechanic should be able to do this in 4 to 6 hours without much trouble. You might want to consider changing over to synth in the primary at this time. 5) You might want to have your front and rear isolators looked at also, as long as it's in the shop, especially for your model/year bike. They are are a high-failure item.  PS- Consider doing the job yourself. I was scared shitless to tear into my motor, but learned a ton about what goes on inside there and gained a whole lot of confidence. | ||
| Rocketman |
Ay' up Bad. Was in London just yesterday, traveling back up north from me hol's. Wasn't the sunshine bloody glorious! Made the pilgrimage to Brick Lane. Can't resist those bloody excellent chopped herring bagels and the minestrone soup. Was market day too, and by heck did the sunshine fetch out the grumble! Anyways, sounds like you're enjoying the S1, which of course is easy to do ain't it. Well like's already been told to ya, it's a pretty easy and simple fix but if you're wanting a good Buell mechanic in London look no further than Warrs. John Warr himself was racing an RR1000 before many of us even knew what one was. Yes it was a long time ago. In more recent years Warrs have campaigned a tube framed racer in national championships, having received 'factory' help too for some of their expensive mods, notably the twin carb'ed heads amongst others. Their experience in things Buell is second to none in the UK. If Martin Sladowski(sp) is still workshop foreman, give him a call, and remember me (the northern bloke with the trick S1W) to him whilst you do. He's a very knowledgeable and helpful bloke. Rocket | ||
| Ezetobebad__uk |
I have booked the bike in to be done late next week, I have not the tools nor a workshop at the moment to allow me to do the work for myself, I will keep you updated as to the end result. thank you all for your invaluable input. regards eze ps -Rocket - Next time you are in North London/herts area then feel free to pay me a visit, i will send you my address later. end | ||
| Rocketman |
Thanks for the invite. Where have you booked the S1 into? Rocket | ||
| Ezetobebad__uk |
Booked into Stadium Harley, Walthamstow (next to greyhound track). I explained to them what the problem was & was informed that the job would take an hour, which conflicts with the allotted time that Captainkirk states (not that i think he is wrong) I just hope they do it quickly. I will pop down to Warrs in the kings road soon, but to be honest I did not want to negotiate my way through the centre of London with a Supertrapp exhaust. cheers ezetobebad ps - Labour charge is £50 - 52 per hour | ||
| Rocketman |
Don't know anything about the guys at Stadium but I always enjoy the blast through London. For me a gutted Race pipe would be the dogs down the Kings Rd. Shake their coffee cups at least! Rocket | ||
| Simond |
I use Warrs' new shop in SE London. Pricey but they've been good so far. The race pipe sounds great bouncing off the walls in the City. Great commuter ride!! |
