| Author | Message | ||
     Modified4speed |
Derby cover all boogered up  | ||
| Modified4speed |
Found the Shock its a m2l still debating if I am going to get it yet or wait... I have decided to wait to break down till all the bushings and bearings come in. So I am picking up the turbo tomorrow for the first piece of the build... Now its just waiting on parts I am looking for clipons as we speak... | ||
| Modified4speed |
Where can I buy the tools to do the neck bearings. I tried finding them via part numbers but no avail... Even tried http://www.americansportbike.com/ and no dice... | ||
| S1owner |
What tools? I do not use anything special | ||
| Modified4speed |
What do you use to remove the stem bearing races. | ||
| S1owner |
Many will have ideas and say what tha correct way is. What has worked for me is a long punch tap tap from the back side not hard blows and keep moving it around so it comes out equal. | ||
| S1owner |
Hey I have a derby cover thats way better. Pm me if interested I will give you a pic | ||
| Modified4speed |
Pm send. Cool I was hoping I could get away with that. I've done other bikes just wanted to make sure there were no fluky things that made it a PITA unless you had the proper tools. Thanks. Bearings and cups are coming from a few towns over so I should get them in a few days so Doing them real soon. I cant wait to be rid of the flat spot in the steering it makes cornering that much more rigid... | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
You think that cover is bad? I dropped my poor bike on the highway some years back. Looks like it was milled. In fact, I may just throw it on the Bridgeport here at work and make it like that on purpose  | ||
| Modified4speed |
haha I was thinking about polishing it off and engraving it but who knows... | ||
| Oldog |
4 speed common punches will remove the neck bearing races from the frame, take a used one and grind it for a slip fit use it with all thread nuts and washers to pull in the races, or tap them in with a brass drift or wood block, the bottom bearing, remove the cage and rollers heat the race and pry it off, I cut mine almost in 2 with an Dremel tool and then finished it with a chisel use pipe to re seat the new bearing Dont forget the dust seal for the bottom before you push on the bearing.... | ||
| Modified4speed |
Thanks for the info | ||
| Oldog |
4 speed I just re-read my post above, I was referring to the neck bearing races for grinding down to slip in and out of the neck I use all thread and some huge fender washers to pull them In I have used a brass block to tap them in do not hit them with a steel punch ( the new ones ) you can "up set" them and cause high spots in the rolling surface of the race, good luck on your rebuild project, if you don't have a manual get one, post here some one has likely to have dealt with your issue in the past ( i have owned my '01 since new ) | ||
| Modified4speed |
Thanks Odog. I have a large threaded rod and will be gathering the proper washers etch to pull the new races in. could I use the same rod to pull the bearings in or can I just set them with my fingers, with the dust covers in of course... What king of grease should I use or just a general weather resistant packing grease...  | ||
| Modified4speed |
Anyone know where I can get a few wideband O/2 sensors... | ||
| Modified4speed |
Ecm Spy came in today so I will be playing with mapping etch and getting rid of this God forsaken Piggyback. looking for info on how to switch the o2 sensor to wide band and adding one for the front cylinder... | ||
| Modified4speed |
Just found out I have a Race Ecm what is the difference? Still learning the ecm spy but google is my hero lol. Anyone have a set of maps for my similar conditions. I live in Florida and run strait pipes and a velocity stack. She runs Lean Lean Lean... | ||
| Kalali |
First thing I'd do is put an exhaust on the bike. It'll no only help with the lean condition but will also give you more torque. In my opinion it's a waste of time trying to "tune" the fuel maps for a straight pipe. | ||
| Modified4speed |
I'm in the process of building a exhaust system for a turbo but for the time being I am stuck with these. The way I see it I have lemons so lol. as she sits running on ecmspy I believe I need a new Intake air sensor cause I am getting code 15 and repluging it and checking the grounds didn't help so I am going to find the ford sensor that will fit and see if it corrects the light. I cant get her to hold a steady Idle and when I set the tps I had to dial it in further to 5.9 to set the idle is this normal. Idling she bounces from I would say around 980-1150 ish and holding the handlebars makes my face all jiggly. I think a little lean Time to put my glasses on and do some more studying. Checking for air leaks again today before I make any changes.. I was hoping someone on here has a high flow exhaust and mabey has a few maps lying around for the set up. This is my project bike-everyday play toy so I don't mind having exhaust and map setups lying around. I get tired of one sound and change thing almost every 6 months besides I love the Harley sound I live where there is majority Sportbikes and choppers so I am either loosing or winning either way I get hella attention on this beast.. | ||
| Kalali |
Now that you've got the program running, keep an eye on the AFV value to see how far you deviate from the "ideal" value of 100%. All in all, the AFV value is a good overall indication of how well your fuel/air delivery matches your bike's needs albeit it is only measuring the rear cylinder. For example, if your AFV is 130%, then your ECM is adding roughly 30% more fuel to both cylinders across the entire map. This means you have a lean condition possibly caused by either too lean fuel maps (for your set up) and/or getting unmetered air entering your intake manifold due to leaky intake gaskets. As for the intake air temp sensor, just get an OEM unit. They are very moderately priced. Good luck. | ||
| Modified4speed |
yaay Got the neck bearings etch today in the mail... I am going to adjust the Idle first then slowly travel across the board and work my way to Wot when Hopefully by then I will have a set of sensors to play with... Thanks K I need everyone's feedback still learning. | ||
| Kalali |
By the way, doing a TPS reset with the engine at operating temperature yields much better results. Also, I wouldn't worry too much if you get your idle set at 5.9% TP. Mine sat there for a long time with a ~1050 RPM and it then all of a sudden changed to 5.1% at the same idle speed when I did a reset. Either way some idle speed flutter is totally normal so don't expect a rock steady idle. These bikes tend to "walk" if left unattended. If you like, drop me a PM and I'll be happy to send you my maps. I basically started with Race maps and slightly modified the cells in the Closed Loop and idle areas to suit the V&H SS2R exhaust and Forcewinder intake. In general, the factory Race maps can handle most popular set ups right out of the box if you tune by the seat of the pants. | ||
| Oldog |
4 speed any decent chassis grease, suitable for disc brakes should be fine for them and the swing arm bearings. I would ditch the straight pipes and get the buell header for the x1 and a muffler, consider a super trapp. good luck enjoy you are part of a limited fraternity of owners... | ||
| Modified4speed |
Thanks oldog. I will eventually get a full system probably next year after the turbo build for a spare set instead of these. I rode for a while today and about 4 months ago I had the same symptoms but adjusted the piggyback and got new symptoms and so on well the piggyback is gone. So once warm the idle hangs a bit like I will while sitting at the light ease off the clutch just to settle the rpm's, And the avf is 105.3 ... I will post a pic of my maps and you tell me I'm no expert but they don't look verry smooth at all. | ||
| Modified4speed |
I'm also ordering a new intake air sensor today but just wodering. If that sensor is bad and by constantly reading 26' c is bad if the temp changes. Also I've read in the manual something about these reading intake pressure instead of flow and is this true. Is the intake temp sensor the same thing or am I missing something | ||
| Oldog |
4 SPEED if from cold the intake air temp sensor reads 26c and never changes some thing is wrong, with spy active and the bike cold and not running, unhook the iat, it should code I can't remember which code it throws.. re connect and clear, start engine and with the iat near the intake ( try using an external thermometer you should see a change the iat and the et should be the same cold with the et ramping up quickly as the engine warms. you can test a iat with some cold and hot water if you have some wire slack.... near boiling water would read almost 100c where as ice water will read near 0 | ||
| Modified4speed |
When it is running it says 26c when the engine is up to 160C. I have done just what you said and no change but when I unplug it it only shows the code for the sensor that it was showing before.. | ||
| Modified4speed |
I did not realize when I bought the Spy cable that on the disk the program was on had a race map for my bike. I ran it into the program only to find out that it is exactly the same as what is in there. From what I have been able to figure out the race ecm already has a race mapping still curious why people buy them then if you can just make a stocker a racer. Back to square one tomorrow I will be running the bike in closed loop idle and see if I can fix the lean idle. Im working on getting a laptop so I can start data logging ive heard great results from doing that... | ||
| Hootowl |
Ecmspy didn't always exist. | ||
| Modified4speed |
Neither did efi |
