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Buell Forum » Old School Buell » Archive through December 28, 2013 » Top tie rod tie in point « Previous Next »

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Jolly
Posted on Sunday, December 08, 2013 - 02:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If I remove this top tie rod mount point will it throw off the mount point of the tie rod by shifting position slightly or will it mount back in original position for correct tie bar tie in? Ok, I may be way over thinking this tie bar mount position...... My intent while the motor is on the stand is to clean it up as best as possible and I would like to have this mount block powder coated..... Yeah no one can see it..... Except me! Any issues or..... Am I way over thinking this???? Oh and anyone know the torque value to bolt it back on? I took a cursory glance this AM over coffee and didn't see anything in the manual..... Longer search tonight if I do remove it.....
Engine tie rod mount block
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Kc_zombie
Posted on Sunday, December 08, 2013 - 03:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Should bolt up just fine. Off the top of my head 30 to 33 ft pounds...
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S1owner
Posted on Sunday, December 08, 2013 - 04:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yep no issue I powder coated mine also no worry.
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Jolly
Posted on Sunday, December 08, 2013 - 05:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks guys!
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Lynrd
Posted on Sunday, December 08, 2013 - 09:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Tighten it until it strips, then back off 1/4 turn.

That was how the last guy did it, anyways.
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Jolly
Posted on Tuesday, December 10, 2013 - 12:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have checked throughout the manual now and I still cant confirm the 30 - 33ftlbs. I did find that all tie-rod bolts are set to that, but I did not find anything about the mount to the head....
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Mmmi_grad
Posted on Tuesday, December 10, 2013 - 07:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Tight works fine here as long as your mount is not bent. Check later?
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Kc_zombie
Posted on Tuesday, December 10, 2013 - 07:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Jolly,

I did some research looking back in my notes from the S1 rebuild from 2012 and realized I had the same dilemma. Maybe it's in the books somewhere, but I couldn't find it. I decided to look toward HD shop manuals for cross reference information.

The only non-Buell bikes I could think of with similar top center cylinder mounts were early Softails and Sportsters. Albeit with the lack of a tie bar connection, other than that they are basically the same setup and materials.

The 1990 Softail calls for 35 to 40 Ft pounds of torque and the 1998 XLH calls for 25 to 30 Ft pounds at the cylinder to mount bolts. My notes for the S1 rebuild show I tightened those two bolts @ 30 Ft pounds and the tie bar @ 32 Ft Pounds.

Coincidentally the S2 book does not mention torque values for the center ignition mount or "top center motor mount" either. So I plan on using the same values for the S2 rebuild even though the S2 book says 30 Ft Pounds on the tie bar.

I may be wrong on this, but I have had no issues yet...

I wounder where Buellistic on this? : )
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Jolly
Posted on Tuesday, December 10, 2013 - 07:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

thanks Kc_Zombie! that helps!
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Steveford
Posted on Tuesday, December 10, 2013 - 07:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Blue Loctite and feels pretty darned tight always worked for me.
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Jolly
Posted on Tuesday, December 10, 2013 - 07:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

here's the funny part....I took the top mount off the donor motor and dropped it off at the powder-coater (98 S3T)so that he could make it look nice again...and today while beginning to strip down the S2...wait for it....wait for it....there it was...the motor mount on the S2...I sent the wrong motor mount to the powder-coater!!! any chance they are the same?
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Kc_zombie
Posted on Tuesday, December 10, 2013 - 08:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

98 S1W is 16272-98Y S2 is 16272-94Y. I am pretty sure they are the same...
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S1owner
Posted on Wednesday, December 11, 2013 - 07:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/hdtorquevalues. htm

This should help
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Blks1l
Posted on Wednesday, December 11, 2013 - 08:59 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The head mount bolts will be different sized, one is smaller then the other on the S2. But if you are using the 98 S3T motor that is the mount you need.
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