| Author | Message | ||
     4speeder |
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| 4speeder |
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| 4speeder |
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| Edv |
4 speeder You have done what many of have done to the stand and this cures the problem. If you are happy the the result then go ride your motorcycle that is what I have been doing.Not worried about the cosmetics as long as the stand works and after this mod it does | ||
| 4speeder |
Here it is in the up position:  | ||
| Lynrd |
Can you post pics of how the kickstand rides when it is up? My big concern with going the "bend it" route is that when I visualize it, I get the kickstand basically hanging down in the rear . the kickstand on my S3 works well....i want that on the S2. | ||
| 4speeder |
Just take the rubber stop out of the pivot channel in the bracket and the stand will fold up farther to compensate for the bend. When it is up, it actually looks like it came that way from the factory because the lines of the stand and the swing arm line up visually. | ||
| Lynrd |
Thanks. Congratulations on the psychic ability too! Apparently you posted that "up" pic about the time I was thinking "I should ask him to post pictures of it in up position"... | ||
| 4speeder |
It took a while for the pic to load and I couldnt figure out what was going on. It finally loaded and I saw that you had posted at the same time I was posting the picture! Hope the pic helps! | ||
| Jolly |
great owner low cost fix! I'm still in for set of side plates if were still running a count to see how many interested folks. maybe with the loaner set that has been so generously offered up (off season of course Ratbuell and - THANKS!), with enough interest maybe we can get a run of these made at an "affordable cost? | ||
| Beardo |
I'm in for a set. | ||
| Buellish |
Whats an "off season"? | ||
| Ratbuell |
Presumably that's the season where I ride the Uly instead of the S2, because winter road salt won't rust the aluminum-and-plastic Ulysses  | ||
| Jolly |
I agree, an off season is when you ride the bike less likely to be destroyed by the "bad season"....or one that you can sacrifice to the bad weather.....looks like I'm gonna need another bike based on that definition.....Ive ridden on my birthday every year for as long as I can remember...20 Jan...sometimes its out for a drink, sometimes its around the block, back into the house by the fire as fast as I can...but I still get to say ..yep, rode on my birthday! I suppose the only thing standing between June riding and January riding is ...gear, attitude, the right bike.... | ||
| Jolly |
back to topic....if ratbuell loans his plates to a machinest as a template, who here is willing to step up....there are some talented machinests on this group!....and what's the minimum order to bring this to a reality?? | ||
| Jolly |
current count: 1. Jolly: full set 2. Beardo: full set | ||
| Greg_cifu |
OK, just so you guys know what you're talking about signing up for, here are some numbers and a question: Are you talking about making BOTH side plates so you have matched billet engine mounts or just the one side? Lets just be clear how much material it would take to make one side: 2.5" thick, 14" long, 8" wide = 280 cubic inches of aluminum. 280 * 0.1 pounds per cubic inch = 28 pounds of aluminum just for the one side. 28 pounds * $6/pound (about the going rate for 6061 bar) = $168. So no shipping, no machining, no nothing. Just the billet to start from is $170 and that's only one side. Luckily the other side isn't as thick so that blank might be around $100. $268 for the raw material, THEN somebody has to machine them. How many are still "in"? I'm guessing a fair "side job" price, doing everybody a favor, would be in the region of $600 at the bare minimum (for a pair). With design time, programming time for the machine and actual run time, cutters, etc, it would end up about $10/hour to make two pair. That ain't gonna' happen and I'd bet nobody would pay $600 for them in the first place. NOW how many are in?  | ||
| Beardo |
So then how were they made cost effectively before? | ||
| Jolly |
ahhh....youre just trying to discourage me....I can be quite relentless in my search for cool parts!...ok the quick breakdown of 600.00 seems a little bit more than expected...but the only constant is the cost of material right? somewhere somehow, these were made less expensive in the past... | ||
| Lynrd |
It turns out, it isn't the past anymore. We don't know how the original manufacturer was running them. Could have been after hours at a machine shop or manufacturer where he wasn't concerned with tool time, or maybe even cutters. I don't know that but I've personally been in situations like that. I hate the idea of machining these, because it is so wasteful in material, and the time to draw and program is not going to be insignificant. NC machining is not a great technique for short run stuff like this - see previous comment about addressable market. I think casting is the way to go. Here would be an idea: Make a simple plug - either pull one from the old machined aftermarket units, or build one up from a stock sideplate and M2/S3 frame tab. I have access to a vacuum former that will make plug creation pretty simple. Sand cast that bitch! - Now you just have a few hours of manual machining to clean it up and finish it - and it will actually look like a stock part, so no need to make the right plate at all. It turns out that one of the winter projects (intake manifolds) is going to require some sand casting anyway. Once the forge is set up, and I have the parts I REALLY need, I might try to make a set for Rhonda or my new, as yet unnamed S2 resurrection project. If they come out OK, I'll post news here. | ||
| Beardo |
OK, intake manifolds caught my eye. What project are you planning? | ||
| Lynrd |
Victoria is getting two front heads. | ||
| Greg_cifu |
The answer to that is probably the cost of aluminum and want for their own part: The cost of aluminum has gone up quite a bit in the past couple of years. In fact: I'm about to go buy some 6061 today. Their scrap / remnant price for bar-ends and stuff is usually around $2/pound (about a third of what I quoted above). That would put the aluminum cost at $100 for the pair of sideplates. There are two problems with that: you often have to buy more aluminum than you need because the bars are just laying there and they're rarely "exactly" what you want. That also complicates programming because each part comes out of a different shape or size lump of material. We still have setup and machine time. My guess is somebody wanted them badly enough to program it for themselves, then offered to make them for others. The third option is that they had some large contract with a big company and the material cost was buried in their bill and it was programmed while other stuff was running. IE: they did the job for nothing, just because they thought it was fun. I've seen stuff bid on CNC Zone's RFQ forum that would not pay for the raw material. Honestly, that's probably the best way to go: somebody builds a good Solidworks or AutoCAD 3D model and puts it out for quote on there. There are guys on there so hungry for work that they will use their material and work virtually for free, just to get the jobs. Or you could do what I do: carry a tie-down. Hook it around the front wheel or fork, run it back to the sidestand and just snug it up. I've seen Ducati guys do that because of their auto-retracting sidestands. Somebody would nudge the side of the bike, shimmying past it or whatever. The momentary lack of weight on the sidestand would allow it to retract and down she went. (Message edited by greg_cifu on August 30, 2013) | ||
| Rex |
I have an S2 stock sidestand. How much would someone charge me to do the bend? I do not have the equipment? i can send you the sidestand and pay shipping....REX | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Rex, it can be done with a MAP torch. It takes time to heat it up but it can be done. Just need the MAP torch and a vise. Too bad Higgins isn't closer he would help in a second. | ||
| Buellish |
The way Jim Gilbert charged for them was:$250 for the left plate and $150 for the right and this was in '03. I bought the left side,thinking I would just powder coat it to match the S2T dark gray frame color.When I got it and saw how cool the machined aluminum looked,I saved my nickels and ponied up for the right. | ||
| Jolly |
anyone here have the tools to take the offer to loan the part from Ratbuell, and copy the program into a CAD program that is useable and then we start the "who can cut this program" and for how much process? one step at a time I guess...so can someone here use the loaner and turn it into a program? | ||
| Gowindward |
Why not take the stock side plate, cut the side stand lug off. Then machine lug and plate to have the lug at a new angle, and weld it back on. ??? It is on my to do list, it just never gets high on the list. | ||
| Ratbuell |
I've seen stock ones break, without being cut and welded...I'd think it would be asking for trouble, being a high-stress area. | ||
| Buellish |
Also one major problem with the stock side plate is the steel stand abrades the aluminum of the side plate and allows too much movement.We've all experienced the stand allowing the bike to roll forward if it's not parked in gear. |
