| Author | Message | ||
     Tll130 |
So today I had to slap a new tire on and the guy said he was gonna charge me 80 for the removal and mount or only 20 if I can get the tire off (he said buells were a pain In the ass) so I did a little research and came across that you had to remove the front rotor and in order to do that because the bolts had lock tight on them you needed to heat and cool to break it loose.. Well I'm a hot head and decided eh forget it ill just use the impact wrench so I pull out the cordless(less power then the air) and my torx 40 bit and went to town I am glad to say none of them broke and I was probably a happy camper. If your short on time and patience I think it might be worth a shot to do it with a cordless impact wrench. | ||
| Mcelhaney14 |
I don't believe you have to remove the rotor, at least I haven't on mine. I've got PM wheels, not sure is the cast ones are different. Just pull the brake pads out and remove the caliper and you are basically set to go. | ||
| Steveford |
The cast ones aren't different. If you have the wheel off you can always file down the top inside corner on the caliper to make things easier the next time around. | ||
| Mighty_mouse |
I had made up a stand out of 2X4 wood. It went under the forks just to raise it up about 1". I had trouble getting my caliper off also even after pulling the pads out. I loosened the rotor enough to work the caliper out of the way and pulled the wheel out. | ||
| Hybridmomentspass |
no, you dont have to remove rotor at all, thats silly what he PROBABLY meant by saying it was harder was the difficulty in jacking the bike up....but really if he had a front stand its all the same. and thats all you need, a front stand or some way to safely secure the front of the bike off of the ground dont take your rotor off next time, just wasting time and loctite. | ||
| Hootowl |
The wheel comes on and off without removing the rotor, the caliper, or the brake pads, you just have to get the front end off the ground a ways. To remove the caliper (without removing the wheel) you simply remove the pads, and the caliper will slip out between the wheel and the rotor. | ||
| S1owner |
Its about a 10 min project to get the front wheel off no big deal and tes a little heat helps on the bolts if you needed to remove the rotor. | ||
| Kc_zombie |
Find another tire guy and/or get a service manual. PM me if you need a copy. | ||
| Hootowl |
Oh, and...you're lucky. I had to drill mine out when I swapped rotors. | ||
| Tll130 |
I had my bike suspended in the air and couldn't get it off(no stand so I strapped it around the triple trees and around my support beams in my garage worked nicely) I didn't try to take the pads out though I figured for a job I'm not doing every day I don't mind removing the rotor it doesn't take that long and it slides right out. And kc ill send you a email for that service manual if you could send it to me that would be awesome | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Guys, it's not rocket science. Lift the front, pull the pads, RETRACT THE PISTONS, remove the caliper. Really it's that easy. Once the pistons are all the way back into their bores you just rotate the caliper slightly and it pops right off the rotor. Really..... To push the pistons back in the bore, I use the old pads.... I've had fronts wheel off in less than 10 min... Seriously.. | ||
| Mike13 |
I recently performed a front tire change and had to remove the rotor as well. Read the service manual and still couldn't get the caliper out. I think if you have the OEM style rotors you're good to go but if you have one of the after market ones the rotor needs to be at least loosened up to get the angle you need to slide the caliper off(my bike has the EBC rotor). I suspect the large openings between the spokes on the OEM rotor gives you more room to maneuver the caliper around. Some one correct me if I'm off on this. | ||
| Gusm2 |
Ive owned my Cyclone for over 12 years and never had to remove the disc (rotor) when taking the wheel out, either with oe disc or the EBC that is fitted now, as mentioned the pistons MUST be pushed all the way back and a little gentle jiggling will have the caliper off. Simples | ||
| Firemanjim |
Had stock and aftermarket rotors and NEVER removed a rotor to get wheel off. Mind you, it can be like a puzzle in that it will only go in/out one way. And you need to close one eye and hold your tongue like so--- usually it would come off no sweat but back on--- "really I just took you off you heathen so-and -so." | ||
| Ratbuell |
To retract the pistons evenly, here's how I do it: Master cylinder cover loose (so pressure can bleed out, but do NOT remove it because you can end up taking a shower if you aren't careful). I always mark the m/c with tape at this point as a "hey dummy its loose" reminder for reassembly. Loosen caliper mounting bolts enough so you can twist the caliper pretty far sideways. Twist the caliper pretty far sideways, using the rotor to push the pads open. Having the pads in place gives you even pressure on all six pistons and keeps you from worrying about one piston going in and one piston popping out. Having the m/c cover loose lets the pressure/fluid bleed out of the caliper smoothly. Remove the pads. Remove the mounting bolts. Remove the caliper. After you reinstall everything and BEFORE you put the front end back on the ground, squeeze the brake enough times to get normal feel back. This can save you a very large pucker once you have the bike rolling down the driveway towards traffic. Once you get lever feel, check your fluid level and re-torque the m/c cover screws. | ||
| Tll130 |
Ya idk I just re removed it today to get the time down and it took me under 5 min to completely remove the wheel and I didn't have to mess with my brake pads or caliper | ||
| Ratbuell |
Some calipers were machined smaller than others. Some calipers are a smaller design. The PM caliper on my S2 is a bitch; the Nissins on the S1 and M2 aren't as bad...but they're not the same as each other, either. | ||
| Tll130 |
I've got an x1 w/ a nissin caliper | ||
| Akbuell |
Having had the front wheel off at various times for new tires, my procedure and opinion. Take out the pads. Push the pistons back in. Try and find the sweet spot and exact angle needed to slip the caliper out. Take one or two breaks until the caliper comes out, then try and figure out how I did it when it did come out. It can be done. Got tired of that, and looked to see exactly where the 'pinch point' was. Took a flat, bastard-cut file and shaved a bit off the back side of the caliper. No more problem. IIRC, the T40 bolts are one use only, per the service manual. And I avoid excess wear on the rotor mounting threads. Hope this helps, Dave |
