| Author | Message | ||
     01x1buell |
well now its happening to me, my grounds are all tight relays are good,i have switched them both ,battery is good ,new ignition and i get nothing when i go to start it, it does bump start and run . i parked the bike last sunday when home from a long ride and went to start it yesterday and nothing,,, any suggestions. | ||
| Greg_cifu |
Starter button contacts are corroded? That's where I would start (had numerous bikes do that over the years). As long as its consistent, you're golden. It's the intermittent problems that kick your butt. | ||
| Harleyelf |
Did you try pulling the clutch lever in, Neil? | ||
| 01x1buell |
James yes i did , and the clutch sensor is off anyway. | ||
| 01x1buell |
well just went to mess with it a little more, so when i hit the start button i get a click from the relays, , ok i have switched the relays many times and the fuel pump always kicks on with either relay . | ||
| 01x1buell |
i am getting tired of this bullshit electrical stuff with this bike.. | ||
| Totalnutah |
by pass the ignition switch , then try it they are notorious for melting if it is custom chrome sell one for 1/3rd the price of the shite hd original | ||
| Buellistic |
Get the FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL and PARTS BOOK for your YEAR/MODEL BUELL and learn to be your own "MECHANIC" !!! Clicking when you push the starter button is one indication your "BATTERY" a PROBLEM !!! (Message edited by buellistic on June 30, 2013) | ||
| 01x1buell |
i have my FSM i just got this battery (the second one) i think these gel batteries are shit .\ | ||
| Harleyelf |
New relays - they are a common Harley part, ten to fifteen bucks each. Swapping them out won't do much good if they are both crusty. If that doesn't work, run a wire with a good connector to the tab on the starter (not the battery cable, the other wire) and touch it to the battery hot terminal. If that makes it spin, your switch is at fault. Your kill switch does work, yes? The engine light and oil light come on when you turn the key on? | ||
| 01x1buell |
jamesdo you mean run a wire from the positive side of battery to the connector/wire on the front of the battery.??? | ||
| 01x1buell |
i did a test and i removed my negative cable from the battery and took a multi meter and connected it to the removed negative cable and the positive side and am getting a 66 milivolt rate.. there should be no flow right?? maybe i have a drain in the system some where. | ||
| 01x1buell |
i went to bump start it just now (what a pain in the ass) and it will not start now.. i was going to check the voltage regulator but i cant get it running.. i am wondering if my Truegel battery is being a piece of shit just like the last one i had to return ... as it sits it is at 10.2 volts to low i know | ||
| Two_seasons |
Check your connections at the starter too. Make sure they are tight. | ||
| Harleyelf |
I mean to test the starter itself by removing the small wire which goes to the starter from the switched circuit and putting 12V right to it (briefly) from the battery. With a good battery, then the starter either will work or prove itself defective. You can eliminate the battery as a suspect by using a car battery; too much potential amperage won't hurt you if you don't draw it to any shorts to ground. Use real cables, not jumpers. 10.2V at the terminals of the new battery? Did you charge it fully before installing? Go to the local Interstate battery shop and buy a good battery before tearing into the wiring. If good batteries die during long rides, check the stator output. Sounds like you may have a failure in the charging circuit. You want 18 - 54 VAC between the two stator output wires with the motor running. (Message edited by harleyelf on June 30, 2013) | ||
| 01x1buell |
Ok now,,so i connected the positive side of battery to the top connection on the starter. My starter spins slowly with a whirring noise and does not engage and all my lights dim to almost nothing. i am super pissed cause i now bet it is the god darn battery again ... my last truegel battery did this and left me stranded and had to kill myself to get home. so i will get a load tester from work tomorrow and test it.. if it is bad what are my options ,, they will send me another one like last time but if they are just bad batteries what is the point. i checked the VR last tome and it is charging at 13.6-14.1 volts. so i know it is ok. i am not in the financial situation to go buy a different battery . | ||
| Harleyelf |
OK, charging at 14.1, this is good to know. Can't do that unless it has AC output at the stator. Got a car battery loose nearby? If that makes the starter spin at full speed you know the issue is behind the starter switch at the charging and battery end of the circuit. | ||
| 01x1buell |
no i do not have a extra battery of any sort here, but i just "jumped the starter" again with the multitool attached to the battery terminals and when the starter spun ( not engaging just spinning) the vols went down to 6.2 ..so this has to be the battery right??? | ||
| Harleyelf |
At least. We have to examine why the batteries fail. I believe your switch circuit and relays will be fine when fed full current. Have you ever taken your fuses out and polished the contacts? The screw to my output wire on my original VR came loose. It's hard to check because it is under the VR hidden by the mounting bracket. That could kill batteries. (Message edited by harleyelf on June 30, 2013) | ||
| 01x1buell |
well James yes i have yesterday i did clean all relay and fuse contacts , i started have these problems when i switched to the TRUEGEL battery . i think that it is the whole problem but i can not be sure until i load test it tomorrow , and if it comes up dead then i will contact them and ask for my money back due to the crap batteries , but i want to be sure it is the battery before i go accusing them of a crap product. | ||
| Harleyelf |
Is it on a charger now? Showing any improvement in voltage? If not it is toast. During the long ride, did you have occasion to use your horn, look at your headlight, or otherwise gauge the strength of the charging system? If everything works great at 3000 rpm and not so much at idle, the battery is the issue. Again. Get cash for it if you can and take the money across the street to another vendor. | ||
| 01x1buell |
no i took it off the charger since it showed no improvement , and i have no idea about the ride and the power of the battt. | ||
| Harleyelf |
Even fully depleted, a new gel battery should be able to take a charge. If your old battery failed from disuse and not from some other cause, and you are getting a steady 14.1 volts at full cruising rpm, you seem to have gotten two bad batteries in a row. If your old battery would start you at the beginning of the ride and not on the way home from the turnaround point, your charging system is suspect. If it was slower at the beginning of the day than at the turnaround, the charging system is fine. | ||
| Kalali |
I know a lot folks here hate to pay a dime to support the "Motor Company" but they make/sell the best batteries...My last (HD) battery lasted 6 years and the only reason I changed it was age. Still started the bike with only one push of the starter... | ||
| Buellistic |
When you buy a new battery put it on a charger because you have no idea how long it set on the shelf where you bought it !!! If you want to check the starter alone you can put the battery directly on the starter terminals to see it it will engage and spin the engine !!! | ||
| Sportyeric |
People have posted here before that battery cables can look good from the outside but have a bad connection from wire to terminal. | ||
| 01x1buell |
how is the Drag specialties battery, they want $115 for it | ||
| Ratbuell |
Just get the HD battery. My S2 and S1 still have batteries in them that I bought in 04 and 05. My 30k mile 06 Ulysses has the battery it left east troy with in 06. Why reinvent the wheel if you don't have to? And spend the $40 or whatever it is, and get the kuryakyn voltmeter from American Sport Bike. Worth its weight in gold. Or you can get the signal dynamics one if you prefer...but having system V at a glance makes a world of difference. | ||
| 01x1buell |
well i load tested the bikemaster battery, and the danm thing is dead again, so i am asking for a full refund for this junk.. | ||
| 01x1buell |
(Message edited by 01x1buell on July 13, 2013) |
