| Author | Message | ||
     Arizona_buell |
So is there a trick with this setup? stock front caliper with P.M. wheels. I found not enough room between the wheel and the disc to remove the caliper? Disc bolts are super tight will deal with those later. Do you have to take the caliper apart? I do have a manual so let that go for a min. Thanks. | ||
| Jramsey |
Remove pads. | ||
| Pash |
And push pistons in | ||
| Harleyelf |
Did you take the pads out of the caliper? Mine is tight, too, so I usually take the caliper apart and replace the o-rings when I put it back on. (Message edited by harleyelf on April 15, 2013) | ||
| B1rdman |
Shoot I'm still having trouble removing the pad retention pin. Previous owner stripped out the 5mm Allen head. No idea how to get it off now. Tried 5.5mm, torx, etc | ||
| Arizona_buell |
No I didn't take the pads out , YET. But I will now. first time I just removed the brake line but I was stripping the bike anyway. Thanks I knew someone here had an idea. | ||
| Arizona_buell |
B1 if you can find a set of short easy outs I got a set from Snap On years ago , apply some heat to the bolt someone probably put lock tight on them. Sometimes a soldering iron will free up the lock tight. Otherwise I have tack welded a washer to the bolt head, then tacked a nut to the washer and that has fixed any stuck bolt I have had. | ||
| Jramsey |
No idea how to get it off now. 1.Disassemble the caliper on the bike. 2.Grab the pin between the pads with a small pair of vise grips. 3.Last resort like I had to do the other day on the rear brake on my Burgman. Welded a piece of 1/4" keystock to it then used vise grips. | ||
| Harleyelf |
Or, you could carefully drill the head off of the pad retaining screw. Once it's off, no torque will remain to hold the threads from turning and a vise grip will turn them easily. If still stuck, apply heat to break lock-tite or whatever else is fouling threads. I use a countersink to drill heads off of screws. | ||
| Kevmean |
Remove pads/ push pistons back and put tape on wheel rim to prevent scratching it and the caliper will come out if wiggled at the right angle. | ||
| B1rdman |
So that retaining pin is only threaded at the head and not the tail? I may just drill it out then. I have another pin shipping to me sometime this week. I hope that rear one isn't also stripped but at this point I care more about the front brakes. Thanks guys for the advice! I don't know why Buell felt the need to make that retention rod threaded when there's a threaded cap there to keep it from coming out anyways! | ||
| Jramsey |
So that retaining pin is only threaded at the head and not the tail? Yep. } | ||
| 01x1buell |
i have have a hell of a time doing this i have a hard time getting the right angle. | ||
| Harleyelf |
Bolt it back on the fork leg and clamp the wheel securely in place. | ||
| 01x1buell |
ohh i have done it plenty of times but it is never off in 5 seconds. | ||
| Arizona_buell |
Tacking a washer to it protects the surrounding area.. | ||
| 01x1buell |
Tacking a washer to it protects the surrounding area.. what do you mean by that. | ||
| Jramsey |
what do you mean by that. That's so you don't burn the paint around the bolt head like in my pic above.lol} | ||
| 01x1buell |
ahh i didnt put the two together . | ||
| Arizona_buell |
Yes find a washer that the hole is about the size of the hole the allen wrench left and weld the washer to the bolt through the hole then weld a nut to the washer through the hole and wrench the bolt out. | ||
| Pash |
As mentioned earlier, easier to split the caliper in half (4 screws - you can do this with it on the bike), clamp the pin in a vice and rotate the caliper body clockwise. The removal of the caliper (assuming the pin comes out) is covered in the manual. To avoid seized pins in future, use Copa Slip on the thread. (Message edited by Pash on April 16, 2013) | ||
| Harleyelf |
The pin is only attached to one side after you split the caliper. The caliper will come off easily once split. Unfortunately, the pin is screwed into the side with the hose attached. Taking it to a vise means disconnecting the hose.Filing a couple flat surfaces on the pin will give the vise grips something to hold on to. Have new parts on hand before you ruin your old ones to get them off. | ||
| Psykick_machanik |
I just loosen the disk and slip the caliper assembly off. be sure to properly torque it back on and your done. Not what the book says but theirs always more than one way to do anything, just whatever your cumfy with. Will be easier to deal with the stripped pin with the caliper in hand. | ||
| Dave_02_1200 |
I just removed the pads. Quick and easy. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
When I replace the pads, I use the old pads as a tool to push the pistons back in. Otherwise, you end up playing whack-a-mole with them. | ||
| Barrick09 |
I had the same problem last summer, I removed the pad and pushed in the pistons, there was no way it was gonna clear, I ended up just breaking the caliper into 2 halves and changing what I needed and put it back together, don't recommend it but it worked for me. |
