Author |
Message |
96s2t
| Posted on Wednesday, April 03, 2013 - 10:33 am: |
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I was all packed up to go away for a couple of nights, put the key in and it wouldn't turn. I had to use to the VRSCR to go away. Inspecting the switch, it looks like the roller bearings have failed. I want to keep the stock ignition unit. Is there a repair or a sportster part number with the right electrical connections that is a cheaper fix? |
Two_seasons
| Posted on Wednesday, April 03, 2013 - 07:01 pm: |
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In my opinion, only replace your ignition switch with a genuine HD part. I bought a Drag Specialties ignition switch and am TOTALLY NOT HAPPY with it. Don't have a part # for you, but they are about $100 from the dealer. |
96s2t
| Posted on Wednesday, April 03, 2013 - 07:09 pm: |
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As I said in my posting...I want to keep the STOCK ignition unit. Is there a repair or a SPORTSTER part number with the right electrical connections that is a cheaper fix? I am not interested in a non Harley part. (Message edited by 96s2t on April 03, 2013) |
Jim2
| Posted on Wednesday, April 03, 2013 - 07:29 pm: |
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Try this part number, Y0725.8 that supersedes the original 32471-94Y. |
96s2t
| Posted on Wednesday, April 03, 2013 - 08:44 pm: |
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Thanks. I had that superceded number and the price is $247.95. At least it is still available. I am looking for another cheaper option. I have a local locksmith looking at it now. I brought him the switch and a bunch of other saddlebag tumbers and matching keys left over from the S2 saddlebags. I upgraded to the S3 single latch bags years ago. |
Hootowl
| Posted on Thursday, April 04, 2013 - 02:22 pm: |
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The pins falling out of the lock appears to be a fairly common failure mode. I've replaced my failed stock ignition switch with the drag specialty item, had that one fail, and replaced it with another drag specialty lock. I don't think the OEM lock is any more reliable than the aftermarket. What you may want to consider is relocating the lock to a place other than the top of the engine. They simply get shaken to death. |
96s2t
| Posted on Thursday, April 04, 2013 - 05:49 pm: |
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I have tried 3 different motorcycle friendly locksmiths with no luck. I did notice now that there is a harley part number on the back of the switch #71421-94. The 94 in the number means 1994 year made I assume. The switch only has 3 wires so I am thinking a sportster switch could be used with the buell connector. |
Sportyeric
| Posted on Thursday, April 04, 2013 - 06:32 pm: |
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I'm pretty sure they use the same connector. The length of the wire may be different. (And I too have had a Drag Specialties one fail in one season.) There is a locksmith in Langley that worked on the barrel keys for my Buell last year. |
96s2t
| Posted on Thursday, April 04, 2013 - 06:58 pm: |
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After the locksmiths said that it couldn't be repaired I gave myself the go ahead to take apart the switch. I carefully drilled the back off and removed the parts. Let me tell you guys....when a locksmith says it's not a repairable part he is right. There was quite a few itsy bitsy metal parts and springs you (I) could hardly pick up. Bottom line is that when your ignition switch fails, go looking for a new one. |
Essmjay
| Posted on Thursday, April 04, 2013 - 08:12 pm: |
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http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/16033.html |
96s2t
| Posted on Thursday, April 04, 2013 - 08:22 pm: |
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Thank you ESSMJAY |
Two_seasons
| Posted on Friday, April 05, 2013 - 05:00 am: |
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If you want a cheap replacement, buy the Drag Specialties one as noted above from Essmjay. But I'd bet you won't like it. Here is why I don't like mine bought for my 2000 X1. 1.) You will have to cut and splice this one in, unlike the HD one which plugs into the harness. 2.) There is no "hole" in the key, which means the key is sloppy in the ignition switch, and in the off position will fall out of the ignition switch. Easy way to lose it! 3.) Key is not matched to anything else on your bike, therefore you need to have two keys. You'll see what I mean if you buy it. I'd buy the HD one, but it's your call. (Message edited by two_seasons on April 05, 2013) |
S2pengy
| Posted on Friday, April 05, 2013 - 08:53 am: |
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I personally think heat has a lot to do with the short life of switches. I have tried replacing with a flat key HD switch and ended up it didn't last very long either.. The late model Buell switch which I installed by the dash has been the best so far... |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Friday, April 05, 2013 - 09:49 am: |
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Hm. I have 30k+ on my S2 switch with no issues. Don't hang a bunch of crap on your keychain. The weight of a janitors pile of keys definitely speeds up switch death. I keep a gummy "Buell" keychain on my key (note that is singular), and nothing else. No bouncing, flapping, or yanking on my keyswitch. |
96s2t
| Posted on Friday, April 05, 2013 - 10:42 am: |
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Thanks for your comments everyone.I am looking at an aftermarket replacement switch at my dealer this morning and I will check to see if the key fits firm in the lock and stays locked in when switched on. I didn't have anything dangling with the key to wear it out. I believe the cause for this is vibration from the motor shaking the key in the lock. The heat from the motor doesn't help either. But I will mount the replacement in it's original location because I am not going to be riding it as much as I did. I have 100,000 plus miles on it and now I have other bikes to ride. The Buell is now a collector bike and I can't ride it to work for the cheap insurance. I will let you guys know how this ends so the next S2 owner can get it fixed quicker. |
Buellish
| Posted on Friday, April 05, 2013 - 12:23 pm: |
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I have had quite a few switches go bad on the different S2/S2T's I've had.I tried replacing with an OEM switch and found them to be not much better than the Drag Specialties version. I tried an HD flat key switch from the Shovelhead,early Evo period but didn't get much better results. S2pengy has an XB switch mounted on one of his S2's,between the dash and the faring.He told me that it's much more robust than the Tuber switches.It is quite a bit larger than the earlier switches which is why he mounted it where he did.I've been thinking about doing this on my S2T. |
96s2t
| Posted on Friday, April 05, 2013 - 05:32 pm: |
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Went to the dealer and they had a generic aftermarket switch with no wires(just screw on connectors) with a flat key. I opted to try one from Ebay.http://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/e11400.m1842.l3160/7 ?euid=4f172b74306d448182e3f69658bd8d5a&loc=http%3A %2F%2Fcgi.ebay.com%2Febaymotors%2Fws%2FeBayISAPI.d ll%3FViewItem%26item%3D220984193927%26ssPageName%3 DADME%3AL%3AOC%3AUS%3A3160 |
Midnight_rider
| Posted on Friday, April 05, 2013 - 08:12 pm: |
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same as the one from Al at American Sport Bike |
96s2t
| Posted on Saturday, April 06, 2013 - 01:05 am: |
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Looks kinda like the same one but is hard to tell from the small Americam Sport Bike picture. I will post the picture of the Ebay auction part I won when it arrives. |
96s2t
| Posted on Wednesday, April 17, 2013 - 10:47 pm: |
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Got the Drag Specialtied ignition switch from Ebay. Noticed that the part was made in Taiwan...I suspect the quality is not great because the key turns kinda loose in the switch. I soldered my wiring harness on to the back of the switch. It bolted up to the mounting like the stock one. It was a cheap fix with cheapo parts and only time will tell if I made the right choice. (Message edited by 96s2t on April 17, 2013) |