|Posted on Sunday, March 03, 2013 - 04:52 pm: ||
ok guys, I decided to start and prep the bike for spring. about 4 weeks away. I ended the season early because my bike wouldn't start due to what seemed like a dead battery.
I have a different battery, not new, but it was fulled charged and has tons of spark.
I hook it up, and the bike still acts like a dead battery, a lot of clicking but won't turn over.
Someone suggested it might be the solenoid. how might I test this? and possible a ball park price if it is the solenoid?
last season this would happen occasionally, where i would push the button to start the bike and it would click, just once, and nothing would happen, i would push it again and it would fire right up. not sure if that is related or coincident.
I am going to test and buy a new battery just to roll everything out. but id rather not if need be.
install difficulty 1-10?
|Posted on Sunday, March 03, 2013 - 05:07 pm: ||
what about the relays
|Posted on Sunday, March 03, 2013 - 05:31 pm: ||
Swap Starter Relay and Ignition relay around. (located under the seat) both relays have to function for the motor to run but you will notice a difference in simptoms,No Ignition. replace as necessary.
Clean all fuse contacts.
|Posted on Sunday, March 03, 2013 - 05:36 pm: ||
Check your grounds.
|Posted on Sunday, March 03, 2013 - 06:36 pm: ||
Had something similar happen after I did a top end on my X1. Turned out when I removed the positive cable from the solenoid, the post rotated along with the contact plate inside. I took the solenoid apart, without removing the starter, cleaned and repositioned everything and it has worked like new since. Hope this helps.
|Posted on Tuesday, March 05, 2013 - 12:09 pm: ||
Corrosion in the fuse block and relay sockets WD40 reseat all of them.
I have had to this to mine several times.
It looks like a nice dry environment under there but the back of the fuse panel is exposed to the outside.
|Posted on Tuesday, March 05, 2013 - 08:40 pm: ||
I second the relay mine would do the same thing tried the battery and still would not work switched tge starter relay with a relay i had in another harness and she started right up i spent alot of time and money to find it that simple.
|Posted on Wednesday, March 06, 2013 - 11:51 am: ||
+1 on checking grounds and remove, reinstall the fuses and relays, check for corrosion on all contacts, clean with electro contact cleaner, and squirt some in the start switch housing.
cant go wrong with a new Batt., and id also check to make sure everything is tight on the solenoids.
good luck finding a intermitant electrical gremlin.
|Posted on Thursday, March 07, 2013 - 08:30 am: ||
Thanks for the suggestions, I'm going to try and knock some of these things off today, we just got another big snow :/ so I got some time unfortunately...
|Posted on Thursday, March 07, 2013 - 01:57 pm: ||
"good luck finding a intermitant electrical gremlin."
I've got a few I'm willing to part with, if the price is right. Make me an offer.
|Posted on Saturday, March 23, 2013 - 12:04 am: ||
I may have the solution as I had a similar problem.
My starter switch broke internally and while it felt normal it wasn't making contact.
I cannibalized the guts out of the high beam flasher switch to rebuild it, and the bike fired perfectly.
To test the starter
run a jumper from the hot post of the battery to the starter. Below the large positive post (under the rubber boot) is a small terminal and single wire plug. If you hit this 12 volts the starter should engage if the starter and solenoid are good because you are bypassing the bikes wiring.
If the starter spins you can check the relays, the ignition switch, the starter switch (as was my problem) your kill switch and all the wires in between.
It is likely something simple
|Posted on Saturday, March 23, 2013 - 12:52 am: ||
you can jumper from the BATT post of the starter to the "S" terminal, the smaller 3rd connection on the 'doghouse'. (MAKE SURE THE BIKE IS IN NEUTRAL! ) If the starter spins and engages, your problem is not the starter but the controls.