| Author | Message | |||
     Gmaan03 |
So I made my lock wrench, and socket. Tried to loosen the nut and it is TIGHT!! Left hand thread. What size breaker bar did you guys need/use? I am using a 1/2 drive standard breaker bar. IS this nut that tight? | |||
| Ratbuell |
It's that tight...AND it's probably slathered with loctite (if it was installed correctly). | |||
| Gmaan03 |
So its that tight then! Well I guess I will push a little harder. My lock tool works perfect. | |||
| Harleyelf |
The drive pulley is right hand thread! The clutch hub is reverse threaded. 200 foot-pounds should do it - that's a 18 inch breaker bar with your weight on it as it is horizontal. | |||
| Gmaan03 |
Crap! I thought I read in the manual it was a left hand thread.......... | |||
| Akbuell |
If you are talking about the engine sprocket for the belt that runs from the engine to the rear wheel, it IS left-hand thread. So clockwise to loosen. Initial torque (per my '01 X-1 manual) is 50 ft/lbs, then turn an additional 30-40deg. So not a huge torque, really. Might do to apply a heat gun, to soften the Loctite .... If the nut on the end of the crankshaft, that one is torqed in the 250ft/lb range. (Message edited by Akbuell on December 01, 2012) | |||
| Gmaan03 |
Here is my wrench. It took me around 1 hour to make and it holds great! It is two pieces, the bolt holes are supressed from the view.  | |||
| Akbuell |
Wow, that is cool !!! Did you make two, perhaps ?? Hint,hint | |||
| Gmaan03 |
Here is the models with clamp holes.  | |||
| Harleyelf |
Is this the wheel drive or the primary drive sprocket? I thought you were talking about the engine output which drives the primary chain. The final drive is lefty, as David has pointed out. Stand on the wrench and bounce lightly. | |||
| Gmaan03 |
I did stand on it, heated it up and jumped on it! I actually twisted off my breaker bar end! | |||
| Mmcustoms |
I had to heat mine and use a 1/2 inch impact very carefully | |||
| Eshardball |
Nice tool. When is the 1st production run? | |||
| V74 |
I have been trying to get the final drive front pulley nut undone to swap the standard 29 tooth pulley (UK model) with a 27 tooth one and just can't move it, all I have managed so far is to slightly start rounding the nut, so for now have given up let me know how you get on getting it off. | |||
| Cyclonecharlie |
Mine came off with just a ratchet...with the nut retainer there's no reason to be that tight. It did have a retainer,yes? If not, somebody may have put some serious stuff on those threads. You may have to cut the nut off and hope the threads are still good on the shaft. | |||
| Oldog |
it is normally not that tight, you are possibly doing some thing wrong. IIRC 50 ft lbs + 45 degrees to line up with the lock plate use red locktite ... | |||
| Firemanjim |
Damn thing can be very tight, I use an air impact and a six sided socket 1 7/16 IIRC.Sometimes have to stuff wood through wheel to stop it from turning. | |||
| Gmaan03 |
Finally got it loose. some heat and penetrating oil, broken breaker bar and a new breaker bar. It snapped loose. | |||
| Kalali |
Normally it should not be that tight. Actually mine came loose once and the pulley was slowly backing out. I noticed it by a slight misalignment on how the belt rides on the rear pulley. | |||
| Ratbuell |
Yeah, if this is the front belt pulley we're discussing...there's a locking plate that holds it in place. Light torque spec, adjust to get locking plate attached, torque four locking plate screws (I always mark them with touchup paint so I can see if they're moving), and done. Overtorquing is bad - that pulley is directly connected to fifth gear, and you don't want to misalign that because you overtorqued the nut on the outside. | |||
| 89rs1200 |
OldDog is correct. Torque to 50 ft lbs, then 30 to 45 degrees more to line up with the lock plate, and use red locktite. Will likely need an air impact hammer to do this. Don't ever leave it looser than that. If the nut is too loose the pulley will rock back and forth on the shaft. The splines will become damaged. If you hear a squeak when engine breaking, it is too loose and you are damaging the splines! Also the lock plate is not enough to hold the nut, use red locktite. Nut on my S3 wore right into the plate and continued to loosen. I am talking from experience here. (Message edited by 89rs1200 on December 10, 2012) | |||
| Oldog |
Gmaan03 Do you have a drawing that you can share for that tool ? | |||
| Gmaan03 |
are you a machinist? | |||
| Gmaan03 |
here is a .stp file
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| Gmaan03 |
Only half of wrench, make two. one with tapped holes the other with clearance. 5/16 cap screws | |||
| Oldog |
To answer you yes I used to do that for a living, I was hoping for a drawing to make a layout from Baker Drive has a copy of the KM tool for about 120$$ If you dont have it as a drawing next time I have the front off I'll try to do it my self - BTW great idea. | |||
| Gmaan03 |
I will make up a print and post it here. It worked super good and was very cheap to mfg. | |||
| Gmaan03 |
Attached is a .xps drawing open with Microsoft .xps viewer
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