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Buell Forum » Old School Buell » M2 Cyclone » Archive through March 08, 2013 » New Cyclone owner, have some questions « Previous Next »

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Rsm688
Posted on Tuesday, August 07, 2012 - 11:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well I picked up a 99 Cyclone today, and...im in love. I do however, have a few questions. I have ordered a service manual, which should cover some of these questions but it wont be here for a week or so

1.) How do you check the fork preload/oil level?

2.) Does anyone know of a supplier for factory touch up paint? My bike is the orange color and has a few little nicks I'd like to touch up

3.) The bike has no steering stops (figure they fell off since their just glued on), does anyone know where I can order a set of these?

4.) Can you check the jet sizes and remove the cap off the mixture screw to adjust it without removing the carb/tank off the bike?

5.) What tranny fluid is reccommended?

6.) The bike has a K&N filter setup on it and a custom muffler (a pipe with a washer and a hole drilled in it welded to a bolt that is threaded in the muffler so when you turn the bolt it adjusts the back pressure by blocking some of the flow. Im in Mississippi in 95* weather, any idea on what jet sizes would be around that area.

7.) The bike has 9400 miles on it and is in very nice condition, a couple nicks and a little oxidation here and there but very clean otherwise. What all should I check for the see if it needs adjusting/replacing? I know he said that there are two recalls that have not been done yet on the bike because the dealership didnt have the parts at the time and its about 3 hours from us. I plan on taking it in a couple of weeks and getting them done.

8.) The little rubber piece that holds the muffler to the front of the bike is missing and it looks like he made a homeade version of one with some RTV. Does anyone know what this is called or a part number?

9.) Do cyclones prefer premium gas (93 octane)?

10.) The bike likes being started up much bettter with the choke pulled part of the way, even when warm. Do you believe that adjusting the mixture screw could take care of this. Any suggestion on how many turns out on the screw? Once again, in Mississippi in about 95* of weather.



Well thats enough questions to get me started until my manual gets here. An answer to any of the questions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Spencer
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Dom
Posted on Tuesday, August 07, 2012 - 11:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

can't comment on much but for the last portion my bike is the same way. doesn't want to be started unless i have the choke partially or completely pulled out. whether its 65 in the morning or 90 in the midday here in san diego
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Coxster
Posted on Wednesday, August 08, 2012 - 12:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hopefully someone else will help with the muffler bushing - but I made mine at work with some gasket material and it's perfect! if you don't find one online just holler
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Ratbuell
Posted on Wednesday, August 08, 2012 - 07:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I've used radiator hose pieces (cut a large hose into squares) for steering stops, and put them on with Gorilla Glue. Pre-curved to fit the frame and everything!

You can check jetting without unhooking the carb, but you do need to remove it from the intake. Step 1 - remove filter, backing plate, and bracket. Step 2 - remove choke knob from left side bracket and let hang. Step 3 - pull carb out of intake gasket, and rubik's cube into position. Chances are, if it was done right, it will have a 45 slow jet and either a 190 or 200 main. That's the most common combination.

Good luck on the orange paint - if you find some, buy two and let me know! It's called Molten Orange.

I run HD Syn3 in all my engines and primaries. Same oil, all locations.

Yes, run 93 octane.

Forks are sealed - if they aren't leaking, fluid should be fine. For adjustments, it's a matter of "turn in to the limit, then back out XX number of turns depending on your weight". You'll need an owners manual for those charts.
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Buellistic
Posted on Wednesday, August 08, 2012 - 09:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

PARTS: www.AmericanSportBike.com

Get yourself a FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL and
PARTS BOOK for your YEAR/MODEL ...
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Rsm688
Posted on Wednesday, August 08, 2012 - 11:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for the help guys, gonna do a little probing today and see what my jets are. Ratbuell, great idea on the steering stops I am gonna fab some up tonight. The reason about checking the fork oil is I feel the bike is slightly leaning and pulling left, I'm gonna start another thread specifically for that issue

Also is it normal for a pretty good vibration when decel at lower speeds like 20 and under? When I pull the clutch in its smooth as can be, can't decide if it's just the motor or something else

Thanks,
Spencer
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Jim2
Posted on Wednesday, August 08, 2012 - 12:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

What do you have your idle speed at? Do you have a tach? Are the vibes you feel through the footpegs or the whole bike?

You could have clutch and/or transmission issues. You could have worn isolators or broken motor to frame mount points. Check your front iso mount and attachment bolts. Check your center mount between the two cylinders. Check front and rear isolators for indications of wear.
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Jayvee
Posted on Wednesday, August 08, 2012 - 12:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

1) Fork preload is the little rings showing on the small cylinder at the top of the fork. The Service Manual, or the Owners Manual shows how to set them. For oil, you have to take the caps off. For the amount of trouble, better to just change it and put in how much you deduce that you want, based on the Manual.

4) Yes, if the exhaust pipe is cold! You can remove the float bowl with the carb on the bike. Suggest you replace any phillips with allen. Depending on your air filter, might have to take that off. I have Forcewinder style, so don't have to remove.

5) Harley Formula + is about as good as anything, widely available, priced reasonable. (This is an ongoing 'debate'.)

6) Jeez I hope that old "snuff-r-not" system is not your only muffler. Try Low Speed Jet of # 45, and leave the Main alone, to start with.

7) There's a Recall chart in the Knowledge Vault section. I didn't think H-D dealers are still doing them, better call first. Check the rocker box gaskets, and the intake seals first. They should have been replaced by now. Make sure the drive belt looks "too loose". Make sure the primary drive chain has 3/4" slack on the tight spot, the Manual is wrong on this. Lube your clutch cable!

9) Mine does, and it runs cooler too, you want that.

10) Try starting with 2.5 full turns out. When my engine is fully warmed up, no choke is needed.

"20 and under"? Stopping, mine doesn't. It shakes like h*ll at a stoplight, used to shake my eyeballs, bad. Lowered the idle to 900, that went away. For sure check Isolators, try searching around this site, for pictures, etc.
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Rsm688
Posted on Wednesday, August 08, 2012 - 01:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I am unsure of the idle speed as I do not have a tach on my bike, just gor it yesterday. I'm pretty sure I feel the vibes in the bars and whole front end, I'll have to take her for a spin again and pay close attention.

Thanks Jim and Jayvee for the replies. And yes I believe that's all the muffler there is. I plan on replacing it once I get some more play money. Any suggestions on a good cheap muffler?

I will get out and do some tinkering and post back with the results

Thanks,
Spencer
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Jim2
Posted on Wednesday, August 08, 2012 - 06:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I just picked up a slightly used OEM muffler on Ebay for $60 . It arrived in great shape with the rear bracket and the hardware. I received it in one week using standard shipping.
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Rsm688
Posted on Wednesday, August 08, 2012 - 10:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Jim ill keep my eyes out on eBay.

My shifter bushing seems pretty worn as it is real loose, I saw in one forum something about American Sport Bikes selling a brass one that was much better but cant find it on their site (guessing they stopped carrying it). Does anyone else make a bushing thats better or should I just get a factory one?
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Wreaster27
Posted on Thursday, August 09, 2012 - 01:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My cyclone leans left too... and my forks are just fine. Its hard to tell unless i ride with one hand. My tires don't wear unevenly so I'm not too worried about it... but let us know if you figure out what is doing it.

How many miles does your cyclone have?
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Rsm688
Posted on Thursday, August 09, 2012 - 09:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

9400, I'm kinda thinking it might be the head bearings now. When I get time I'm gonna pull the forks and clean/grease/inspect them and see If that helps. My tires appear evenly worn as well. I've got a bunch of things to check on it, I'm in vet school and we have 4 tests next week so illnprobably be a week nor two til I can do some investigating
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Rsm688
Posted on Sunday, August 12, 2012 - 08:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Got another question I remembered, the bike doesnt like to go into neutral from first, its very difficult to get it I usually miss and hit second. However going from second down I can hit neutral almost every time, is there something I need to adjust to fix this?

THanks,
Spencer
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Ratbuell
Posted on Sunday, August 12, 2012 - 10:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Blip the throttle. The transmission needs to be spinning to change gears easily; idle speeds are generally too low to get it to go easily (assuming all else - shifter, primary chain, and clutch - are properly adjusted). My bikes are ridden at least once a week, all adjustments are dead-on including idle speeds...and I still have to blip at lights to find neutral (including my S1W with micropolished and back-cut transmission).
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Inplansight
Posted on Monday, August 13, 2012 - 10:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Might want to check the shifter arm mount (lose) as mine did almost the same thing after the bike warmed up. Just needed a little twist.

Paul B
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Rsm688
Posted on Saturday, August 18, 2012 - 05:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks guys, blipping the throttle took care of the problem, the shifter is a little loose though. I got some new bushings for the shifter/rear brake coming and gonna get it adjusted right.

Spoke to the HD dealer and all the recalls have been done on my bike but the rear shock so Im taking it in Friday. Im gonna get them to look at the alignment/steering head bearings and see if they can get it all straightened out. Im in vet school and have class from 8-5 then have to study most weekends and nights so I have had zero time to fool with the bike and just want it straightened out.

Is there anything else I should get them to inspect like the oil pump? Any things that could use adjusting around 10,000 miles that require special tools (as I am pretty limited with what I have here, my shop is back home 5 hours away).


Thanks,
Spencer
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Buellistic
Posted on Saturday, August 18, 2012 - 05:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Get a FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL and PARTS BOOK for your YEAR/MODEL BUELL and learn to be your own MECHANIC !!!

If you want to learn, all the TEACHERS will help you !!!
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Rsm688
Posted on Saturday, August 18, 2012 - 06:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Im very mechanically inclined and do most all my truck work and all the stuff on my dual sport/dirt bike. Ive got the manual and plan on doing all the stuff on my bike, but right now I want to get this leaning left thing figured out and have a major time constraint and dont have anything to hoist my bike to check the bearings. I havent been driving the bike the past two weeks because of the leaning and just want to get it back on the road for now.

I will definately be asking plent of questions in the future as I am going to be going through the bike head to toe over christmas break getting everything inspected/adjusted/replaced


thanks,
spencer
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Littlebuggles
Posted on Saturday, August 18, 2012 - 06:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

There is a 10,000 mile service in your owners manual, I believe head bearing and primary fluid are part of that service.
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Buellistic
Posted on Saturday, August 18, 2012 - 07:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"i" have used CAR BODY STANDS and a SMALL HYDRAULIC JACK for years !!!

Been able to what ever was needed to be done !!!
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Buell_bert
Posted on Sunday, August 19, 2012 - 12:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Premium fuel only. Unless it is not available and stay away from ethanol. Also it should start fine warm (depending on your intake and exhaust options from stock)but need the choke cold. If it gets to where you need the choke when running warm look at the intake seals. My 2001 M2 shifts just fine warm or cold. Also the clutch adjustment is quite picky. I have mine set so it engages shortly as you let it out and an 1/8 in. makes the difference on release and ease of locating neutral easily. The stock grips are thin and I have installed foam/gel grips for comfort so they are thicker yet worth the comfort gain. Good luck.
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Captainkirk
Posted on Monday, August 20, 2012 - 11:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

For you left-leaning tendencies, check your rear swingarm isolators, also the front isolator. Also check to ensure that your forks aren't twisted in the triple tree.
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Rsm688
Posted on Tuesday, August 21, 2012 - 09:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks a ton for the help and advice guys, Im gonna have some spare time the rest of the week so I am gonna get to tinkering on the bike and see if I can get things figured out. Is there any good way to check the isolators without removing them?

And whats the best way to make sure the forks arent twisted in the triple tree? Is there an indicator mark somewhere to make sure they are straight or a good plase to use a caliper to check?


Also, for spare keys, do you get them made at the harley dealership or where?


Thanks,
Spencer
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