| Author | Message | ||
     Db4570 |
Using ratchet straps, where do you hook them to? In the front, the frame tubes are too big for any ratchet strap hooks I've found. I've searched for larger J hooks with no luck. What methods do you guys use to strap 'em down? Thanks for any suggestions. David | ||
| Nwrider |
I have loops similar to these. Loop em around your bars/frame and hook the ratchet strap to the loop. No scratchy scratchy. http://www.amazon.com/Soft-Loop-Tie-Down-Straps/dp /B002MYLB1Y | ||
| Imaposer2 |
Yes, always use soft-ties on the bike end of whatever straps you use. Another thing I learned years ago... After getting the bike tied down I always wrap some tape around the open end of the tie-down hooks, so that they can't slip out if the strap gets sudden slack like can happen with a large bump. I learned that lesson the hard way when I hit a large hole, compressed the suspension, and tilted the bike enough to temporarily unload one tie-down enough for the hook to pop off.  | ||
| Huck_farley |
Soft ties over the bottom triple tree clamp.Invest in a $20-25 set of name brand tie downs when you come across them. I've been using some that have the soft ties built in. I also use the hell out of the white closed loop shipping tie downs harley dealers usually give away for a donation to MDA. They don't come off if they compress. I like the tape over the open hook idea, taking an extra minute or two when securing a bike can save endless misery. Don't forget to check your bike after the first 5-10 miles of travel. | ||
| Ghettobirdpirate |
IMO, absolutely use the straps like the one posted by Nwrider. I personally always use a method taught to me by my friend and bike mechanic who has 30+ years experience. I tie down my FXDL, and used to tie down my XB12, while they are on their side stand. With M2's, strapping it down while it is on the side stand is different than other bikes due to the location of the stand. You should either tie it down so the bike is standing straight up or anchor the rear right section prior to ratcheting down the front. Otherwise, ratcheting the front down will cause the rear tire to come off the deck with the bike resting on the side stand and front tire. I also tie a slip knot in with the excess strap right at the ratchet so it can't slack up if I hit any bumps. I have been fortunate enough not to have to transport my bikes often, other than under their own power, but when I have had to I have not had any problems. And California freeways suck! | ||
| Imaposer2 |
Yep, I forgot that I also use GBP's tip by making a single loop "Granny's knot" jammed up against the back of the buckle to prevent the strap from slipping. I've never had one slip, but it's just an extra precaution. I haven't hauled a bike in a long time, so I'm glad this subject came up when it did. Reminds me that I need to put my hands on all of my tie-down stuff before next Saturday. I'm making about a six hour road trip, one way, to pick up my first ever Buell.  | ||
| Brinnutz |
I rented a cargo van and used a discount online last time I had to transport:  | ||
| Buellistic |
If have a "CARBURETOR" turn the gas "OFF" !!! | ||
| Imaposer2 |
"If have a "CARBURETOR" turn the gas "OFF" !!!" EXCELLENT advice, Beullistic!  I made that mistake once before too. For those that don't know why... on a carbureted bike that is being transported on a trailer, truck, van, whatever, as it bounces along the float will be bouncing around, momentarily opening the needle valve and allowing fuel to flow. If you're lucky it'll just flow out the overflow and leak all over the place. If you're not so lucky, the gas will flow through the carb and fill the engine with raw gas. If you're really unlucky the combustion chamber can be full, and if you don't notice before trying to start it you can do some major damage to the engine when it hydro-locks. At the very least you'll have to drain the crankcase and get all the gas contaminated oil out. This is less likely to be an issue with bikes equipped with a vacuum controlled petcock, but it's still a good practice to just always turn them off. This is a good thread. When I first saw it I was thinking that there wasn't much to tell. I've been transporting bikes for so many years that I had forgotten all the little things the someone with less experience might not think of. | ||
| Ducxl |
I use tie downs to merely steady my bikes' in transport.The excellent Alabama manufactured Baxley Sportchock is really what holds my bikes' in place.I never liked collapsing the forks with tie downs. | ||
| Imaposer2 |
Yeah, fully compressing, or collapsing the forks is bad for the seals so that type of chock is a really good investment if you have a track/race bike and transport regularly. For me though... well, next weekend will be the first time I've had a street bike on my trailer in quite a number of years, so I don't know that they're worth it for my individual needs. YMMV of course. I used to ride dirt and used a spacer between the front fender mount/lower triple clamp and the top of the front tire. This put the load on the tire and took it off the forks. Can't really do this on a street bike though, so I learned long ago, from my Ducati mechanic, to limit the load placed on the forks with tie-downs and put most of the tension on the rear tie-down points so that the shock is taking it. A shock is a little less sensitive and better able to withstand the longer term compression. The forks still get compressed but not just wrenched down super tight. This is the main reason for wrapping a loop of tape around the the hooks after they are in place. Since the forks aren't super compressed, the straps can go slightly slack from time to time. Not enough to be an issue, but with a bigger hit it could be enough for the hook to jump loose before everything returns to its normal position. Of course everyone has their own methods, so just try a few different tips that you pick up along the way and figure out what works best for you and your equipment. (Message edited by Imaposer2 on May 05, 2012) | ||
| Oldog |
Yeah, fully compressing, or collapsing the forks is bad for the seals Err. No The forks if properly filled will not fail the seals when fully collapsed to bottom} when I tie down for transport that's how I do it front full down. No failed seals to date. | ||
| Nwrider |
Really oldog? I have compressed them halfway and been paranoid about causing damage. | ||
| Imaposer2 |
I'll respectfully disagree with that. While not familiar with the particular forks used by Buell, most forks that I'm aware of are designed the same in that regard. That is, they have a specific air gap above the oil and on full compression this air is pressurized and this pressure is contained only by the seals. I've never had a seal failure during transport either but I have had seals fail and have seen many other than my own, over the years. By and large, the majority of the time I've seen them blow was due to big impacts that fully and rapidly compressed the forks. While I haven't trailered a street bike in a while, I have transported bikes of all types for over 30 years. In all those years I've never seen that fully compressing the forks was any advantage whatsoever. But, to each their own. | ||
| Hootowl |
Rapid compression does generate pressure spikes, but slowly compressing the fork with a strap does not. The oil isn't being compressed per se, it is being pushed through a narrow passage. Once the oil has moved through the passage, the pressure on each side of the valve is equalized. The air pressure above the oil is to help reduce oil foaming as it gets squirted through the orifices of the valve. Completely compressing the shock doesn't increase the air pressure or the oil pressure, it only compresses the springs. | ||
| Team_flash |
I have been trailering my bikes for years. I put the front wheel in a chock and I use a Canyon Dancer which goes on the handlebars. The tie downs attach to the loops on the Canyon Dancer and then I put a tie down through the rear wheel to keep it from sliding around. I have never had an issue and like I said I trailer my bike on average once a week (Sometime more)  | ||
| Db4570 |
Thanks for the suggestion. I like the idea of those loop straps. I'll give 'em a try. David | ||
| Oldog |
Really oldog? I have compressed them halfway and been paranoid about causing damage. The prescribed filling method for x1 forks is fully collapsed, leaving at least 2~3" of air space, this fully collapsed state is before the springs are installed. ( the forks wont move quite as far to bottom ) Also I agree tie the back wheel down is a great idea. } | ||
| Oldog |
Poser rapid compression of forks should not fail seals IF the forks are properly filled and the seals are in good condition I raced motocross years ago and made more than a few hard front wheel landings ( even bending a steel rim once, never blew a seal the seal failure on bottoming thing is a wives tail or the result of an over fill Springs are more likely to go bad ... ( never seen that one either ) I did have a uly try to bail off of a trailer because the owner who was riding with me did not secure it ( same reason ) fortunately We saw the overturned bike before serious damage had been done |
