| Author | Message | ||
     Jim2 |
Did you pinch the fuel vent tube when you were messing with the tank bra? A blocked fuel vent tube will prevent the fuel flow to the carb. Pop the vent tube off the gas cap and try to run it and see what happens. | ||
| Bikerrides |
Jim, sounds feasible. I've been reading on here and it sounds like fouled plugs. I'll try plugs and the vent tube thing tomorrow and see what happens. | ||
| Bikerrides |
What is the best spark plug to use in the 99 S3? Can you give me part#? I'm sure it's different for each brand. | ||
| Two_seasons |
NGK is the brand most prefer around here. http://napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.as px?A=NGK6546_0275436974&An=0+599002+101999+50100+2 100015&Ar=AND(P_RecType%3aA) I specifically called out the S3T and this is the one I use too on my X1's. (Message edited by two_seasons on March 15, 2012) | ||
| Gixxer86g |
NGK DCPR8E. Stock # 4179 for my 99 X1. | ||
| Bikerrides |
Took out the plugs and cleaned them. Fired right up and ran like a champ!  Fouled plugs...duh!  | ||
| Bikerrides |
I'd like to upgrade my headlight to a halogen bulb. Anyone have the brand and part# that will fit my 99 S3T? | ||
| Oldog |
Standard is a halogen, HID for a semi sealed beam is the way to go it is said DDM tuning is the source. | ||
| Two_seasons |
My 2000 X1 was fouling plugs real bad from the dealer when I first got it in Dec. 2010. Changed O2 and ETS sensor and no more fouled plugs. Took a 2,500 mile ride to Philly and back last summer. Excellent in every way and averaged 51.058 mpg. | ||
| Bikerrides |
Anyone have experience with this kind of upgrade on the headlight? http://www.slickcar.com/details/1032-h4-headlight- conversion.asp Was wondering if this might be easier and work better than putting an HID bulb in the stock housing. | ||
| Oldog |
that wont fit the standard housing?????, oops s3, nice sled! the HID requires some creative work, no issue placing the ballast in the fairing... caution on increasing the wattage the X1 has a light guage ( thin wire) }harness to the headlight and may not carry the current of a HO h4 Oh btw the standard head light is a 55w H4 (Message edited by oldog on March 18, 2012) | ||
| Bikerrides |
Does anyone know who manufactured the tach and speedo used in the 99 S3? Interested in putting chrome bezels on mine and thought there might be an option other than the actual Buell parts. | ||
| Two_seasons |
Talk to Al at American Sport Bike about the bezel. | ||
| Bikerrides |
So, I rode over to HD today, about 10 miles, and when I got there I noticed several small drops of oil on the right side of the rear fairing just under where my right leg is. I assume they had to have come from the breather, but it does seem that it would have ended up on my pants leg; my pants had no oil on them. I checked the oil when I got home and it was full. What would be the cause of this and is it anything to be worried about? | ||
| Bikerrides |
Does anyone know where I can get a right side saddlebag latch for my S3T? | ||
| Two_seasons |
Sounds like the primary is overfilled if you are seeing oil toward the back of the bike. I use the HD Formula+ oil in the primary. Oil level should just be at the bottom of the derby cover/clutch adj. and no more. About 28 oz. to get it there. Bag latches, no clue, but Al at American Sport Bike probably could help you. | ||
| Bikerrides |
I did about 250 miles today; man it was nice! I've been noticing for about the last 5 days a little miss or skip when running at a steady rpm. After the oil droplets I saw last Tuesday, I decided to have the HD tech test ride it Friday. He could feel the miss/skip and didn't think it was anything significant. He asked if I was running reg gas because he said it was spark knocking pretty bad and I told him no but mentioned that I had bought gas in the middle of nowhere last Sunday and wondered if I had gotten some bad gas (old, water, or trash). He suggested putting fuel treatment in so I did and also some fuel injection cleaner. Well, today I still noticed the miss but additionally, about 5 times only at 3K rpm, it would seem like it was going to shut down for a couple of seconds then would run fine. What does this sound like? Ignition, EFI, ECU, plugs, trash in the fuel line, water in the gas or what? Thought about changing the plugs and see what happens. Anyone have any ideas? | ||
| Oldog |
Sounds like the primary is overfilled if you are seeing oil toward the back of the bike. Possible crank seal check level first. if level is ok start planning for seal change.} Well, today I still noticed the miss but additionally, about 5 times only at 3K rpm, it would seem like it was going to shut down for a couple of seconds then would run fine. The fuel injection system is self adjusting ( unless you turn it off ) and this happens when it adjusts to conditions. It could also be crap the cleaner is removing (Message edited by oldog on April 02, 2012) | ||
| Bikerrides |
If the intake air temp (IAT) sensor in the breather gets contaminated w/oil, would it make the engine skip or feel like the throttle was let off for a second even thought the throttle was held steady? Can I clean the sensor w/some airflow sensor cleaner? A good bit of oil had collected at the bottom of my breather cover and the wind while riding was blowing it back onto the right rear fairing. I have cleaned that all out and wiped down the breather assembly as well as the throttle body w/carb-intake-TB cleaner per the HD tech's instructions. The skipping has him puzzled, though. Let me know on the IAT contamination and cleaning questions asap! | ||
| Two_seasons |
I have the same "skip" as you mentioned. From what I can deduce, it has to do with the accumulated oil from the breather vent at the forcewinder. It's either that or the transition from closed loop to open loop mode at the ECM(about 3,600rpm IIRC). EDIT: The more I think about it, my 2000 X1 with stock air box doesn't do this, so it probably has to do with the breather vent routing and being sucked back into the intake. Keep us posted on what you find out. I'm still riding the 1125r and haven't had either X1 out this season. (Message edited by two_seasons on April 03, 2012) | ||
| Bikerrides |
I called HD service to see if it would be harmful to put mass air flow sensor cleaner on the intake air temp sensor and they said no. So I did and initially thought it was running better; however, the longer I rode, the worse it got and I actually thought it was going to die at one point it was skipping and sputtering so bad.  Seems like the more I try the worse it gets. I took some pictures of the breather and the spark plugs that I changed out yesterday. Here are the breather pics; does anything look abnormal here?    Here are the plugs:   | ||
| Bikerrides |
Steve, After reading my newly purchased FSM on the DDFI, the issue seems to be limited to when the EFI is in "closed loop" mode; I have no issues starting, idling, or during medium to hard acceleration when the EFI is in "open loop" mode where it utilizes the FI presets. The issues are most apparent when the engine is running at a steady 3K to 3500 rpm when the closed loop function takes over the EFI....Hmmm. Could the O2 sensor have gotten contaminated by the oil in the breather? Where is the O2 sensor located? Anyone have any ideas? | ||
| Dannybuell |
When I put a catch can on my carbureted s1 the bike ran better. | ||
| Littlebuggles |
O2 sensor is on the rear header, just at the bend. You could use a q-tip to carefully clean the iat sensor and see if it makes a difference. You're using premium fuel? These bikes call for 91+ octane. | ||
| Bikerrides |
Yes, I am using premium gasoline. | ||
| Bikerrides |
Per the FSM, I checked for trouble codes stored by the ECM as indicated by the check engine light sequence. Apparently there are no trouble codes or current fault conditions stored in the ECM. I guess this is good, but I have no clue as to why it's suddenly skipping and hesitating. | ||
| Two_seasons |
I will be going to the breather vent catch can later this season. My headers get so goobered up with the Harley puke. At that point I suspect the issues of a "skip" or cough as I call it, will minimize if not completely disappear. Have you checked your CPS sensor under the cover? Make sure the wiring is not abraded either (insulation pinched or cut). | ||
| Bikerrides |
Puzzled and frustrated.  Today I decided I would put some fuel injector/system cleaner in the tank and go out and run the bike hard to blow it out. I did hard accelerations often running up to 5K to 5500 rpm wide open throttle or very near it. If I had a few miles before a turn, I'd do full-throttle roll-ons up to 90-95mph and then let off and resume 60-65 mph. The bike never once coughed, sputtered, backfired, skipped, etc. under hard acceleration; I could still feel a very slight miss when running steady 3000-3500 rpm but the bike ran as good as I can remember. After about 55 miles of dogging it out  , I literally said to myself that was it. So I started back home doing normal easy to medium acceleration and when I got up to speed, I slid back on the saddle. About 10 seconds later, it coughed and sputtered as I've described before.  I went and had lunch and read a few more posts on BadWeb on my Blackberry while eating. When I got home I decided to try a few more things especially related to wiring, wiring plugs, etc. I took the rear fairing and breather assembly off so I could see and access everything. I had taped up a place in the wire to the IAT sensor a couple of days ago, but decided to take all the old tape off from a previous job and redo the entire tape job on that wire. I noticed a spot on the front rocker box cover where the outer sheath on that wire had melted against it, which is why it had been taped up in the first place. I decided to use a zip tie to position the wire so it wouldn't touch anything. I did the same thing with the wire and plug for the TPS; it was just dangling between the two cylinders and the throttle body. I also put a zip tie on the front cylinder vent tube, as it didn't have anything holding it on; the rear one has a hose clamp on it. On the odd chance that I was looking at something as simple as a loose wire or plug/connection, I decided to use some contact cleaner on some connections. I started with the battery terminals and discovered that the positive side screw didn't seem very tight and the post had a little corrosion on it. I used a file to clean up the terminal and the connector then sprayed some contact cleaner on it. Since I had the battery disconnected, I decided to use the contact cleaner on the connector plug to the O2 sensor. I also pulled all the fuses and sprayed a little contact cleaner in the slots. When I replaced the fuses, I put a small amount of dielectric grease on the fuses. I wondered why the bike sputtered and coughed for the first time today after I decided to take it easy and slid back on the saddle. It occurred to me that maybe the extra deflection in the rear suspension may have been tugging on a wire or creating some kind of change that was resulting in the misfire problem. I had read on a post that the side stand switch can cause these kind of issues and decided to spray some contact cleaner on the switch. I then reassembled everything and it was time for a test ride. I had high hopes, especially since the positive battery lead was a little loose. Wrong. I could tell pretty quickly that the misfire was still there at least at lower speeds. I headed towards some open road and when I got up to about 50 mph, it really started cutting out and the check engine light came on; this was the first time that had happened during all this. As I got the bike up to 65 mph, the check engine light went off and it seemed to really smooth out. I've read on here that sometimes the ECM sorts itself out and self-corrects, so I thought maybe that was what had happened. I got off at the next exit and when I accelerated after the turn, it began coughing and sputtering again and the check engine light came on.  It never went off the rest of the way back home. Well at least I thought the ECM would be storing a code that might explain some things. When I got home, I checked for codes according to the procedure in the FSM and the check engine light behaved as if everything is fine and doesn't indicate that there are any codes stored on the ECM. What gives? Anyone have any suggestions? I love riding this bike and have plans to ride over the weekend on my first overnight trip on a motorcycle. Now I wish I would have left it alone after my hard ride this morning.  | ||
| Bikerrides |
About 7:30 tonight I wanted to see if the check engine light would come on again when the bike was started. It didn't, so I'll see what happens tomorrow. | ||
| Jim2 |
Just a guess but maybe you have a situation where the power is not solid to the ecm. Maybe that is clearing the codes after the light came on? Did you check both side of both battery cables? Check the main ground strap for tightness and corrosion. Maybe you need to see if you can get a loaner battery. Also why don't you just bypass the sidestand switch to eliminate the possibility all together. |
