| Author | Message | ||
     Bikerrides |
How do I bypass the sidestand switch? Is there a good thread explaining the procedure? Thanks! | ||
| Essmjay |
remove switch, connect wires. Or just cut the wires, leave the switch there, and connect the wires. | ||
| Two_seasons |
Sounds to me like your ETS (engine temp sensor) is flaky. My 2000 X1 Lightning did that before I changed it out with one from American Sport Bike. If you bike appears to be "bucking", that is, hard acceleration with a lack of power and maybe popping through the intake then you throttle back and it smooths out and is ridable (or not) then it may be a faulty ETS. | ||
| Bikerrides |
Essmjay, I believe it was you that I sent a PM to a couple of days ago. Did you get it? | ||
| Bikerrides |
Steve, Mine is doing just the opposite. It'll accelerate hard w/no problems, but there is a constant slight skip when held at a steady 3K-3500 rpm then it will begin to cough and sputter or feel like the throttle lets off for a couple of seconds. The symptoms have gotten progressively worse over the last two weeks and the more I try to find the issue, the worse it gets. I broke down and took it to HD this afternoon. It ran pretty damn good over (typical), but it did cough and sputter once and the check engine light came on and didn't go off. I wasn't getting check engine lights until yesterday. I think I've got a loose wire on a sensor or something to that effect that is making the ECM get incorrect readings. It doesn't make sense that it'll run so good one minute and then seem like it's going to die the next. | ||
| Two_seasons |
CPS sensor failing? Known to chafe wiring at the mounting plate. Do you have the race ECM or stock ECM? | ||
| Bikerrides |
I have the race ECM. Hopefully the HD mechanic will find that it is something as simple as a chaffed or loose wire. | ||
| Bikerrides |
HD said the code came up as O2 sensor. They ordered one and I'm waiting for it to come in. I hope that's it! I'll be glad when my ECMspy cable gets here so I can likely diagnose these kinds of issues my self and safe a bundle of money.  | ||
| Jramsey |
O2 sensor '90's Chevy PU, Bosch #12014 about $30 at your local auto parts store. | ||
| Bikerrides |
Does it have the same connector plug? | ||
| Bikerrides |
HD didn't have the O2 sensor, so I bought it at the local AutoZone; $20...thanks for the tip Jim! Thank God I didn't have to pay HD for the part because the bike still runs exactly the way it did before, which is why it was taken in in the first place  So a $20 part and 1.5 hrs labor at $85/hr later and I'm still where I was the last three weeks. Bike runs good overall, but at steady 3K rpm it has a miss/skip and will occasionally seem like it's going to die then come back after 1 or 2 secs and run fine. At least I didn't get any check engine lights this time, which is why I opted to take it to HD, which turned out to be at $155 mistake. Hey at least I found $10 in the parking lot where I had lunch out on my ride today Here's what I did find out new today, which kinda backs up my thought that there has to be a loose wire or a wire that's being pulled loose when the rear suspension deflects more than usual. Again today, the first time it felt like the throttle was being cut was a minute or two after I slid back in the saddle at speed; 60-65 mph; I had already experienced that. Here's the new part. The next time was after I hit a pretty good bump that sent a pretty good jar through the bike and me; immediately, the bike felt like it was shutting down then came back when I moved the throttle. A bit later, I was on a secondary road, paved with what we refer to here in the South as tar and gravel, and then hit a pretty rough section of patches; again, it acted like someone had hit the kill switch. Also, today was the first time I noticed any kind of skip under hard acceleration. I would also note that it has always seemed to worsen when I've been riding at highway speeds for extended periods of time; steady rpm between 2800 and 3500. After stopping for a break, it seems to be less noticeable until I've been going steady for a long stretch. Does this sound like the engine temp sensor? Could it be the TPS or the connector? When I picked the bike up from HD yesterday, it seemed to run better overall than before I took it in. However, the longer I rode today, the more it acted up. I think I'm going to disable the sidestand switch; at least I won't cause it to be worse and it won't cost me a dime. The PO was having a similar issue and had repair work done in December of 2011; I purchased the bike in February 2012. The repair ticket from then says: run concern-loss of power. Customer notices loss of power under hard acceleration. Believes to be intake leak, requests Eric to diagnose and call w/estimate. Repairs included the following: intake manifold seal, carb inlet gasket, throttle position sensor, seal ring, throttle control cable. The ticket from yesterday says: check engine light on. Code 13, O2 sensor replaced. Zip tied wires up behind airbox. Has anyone had a similar issue or can someone point me in the right direction or any direction that might be the cause for that matter? I'm not going to spend any more money at HD; I could have replaced the O2 sensor for $20 myself and been exactly where I am right now. I have ordered a swingarm work stand and an ECMSpy cable; both should be here next week. At least I can read the trouble codes my self and clear them. I want to do my own work whenever possible so I don't have to pay HD those kinds of labor rates for doing what amounts to probably 30 min of real time working on the bike. | ||
| Gixxer86g |
BTW, the Nippon Denso p/n for the O2 sensor is 234-1001. | ||
| Alfau |
Bump. I had a Buell Leather tag on my ignition key which flapped in the wind and wore out the ignition switch. Didn't I have a good time trying to track that one down. The old Jiggle test found it. | ||
| Bikerrides |
With an O2 sensor code then a new O2 sensor and the bike runs no differently (slight skip at steady 3K rpm and occasional 1-2 second loss of power), what else could cause that code? Bad exhaust gasket? Anything else? I just got my ECMSpy cable today and I'm just about set up to be able to access the ECM. Any help will be greatly appreciated. | ||
| Davefl |
A couple years the local dealer changed out my O2 sensor twice with the same running problems.. turned out to be the TPS. With ECM spy you should be able to check the TPS if not a volt ohm meter could be used to check it out. (Message edited by davefl on April 16, 2012) | ||
| Essmjay |
Bikerides- I just saw that you said you sent me a PM some time ago. I never received it. Shane | ||
| Bikerrides |
Shane, Hmmm...it was to see if you'd share a copy of ECMSpy, which I have since acquired. What version do you have? I may want a newer version, if yours is. | ||
| Essmjay |
I have V.1.12.1 | ||
| Bikerrides |
OK, I have ECMSpy up and running! I've run all the diagnostics and everything seems to be OK except the TPS reading. The ECMSpy pdf says it should be between 4.6 and 5.1% and mine is at 5.6. Does anyone have an opinion on this? | ||
| Mcelhaney14 |
Not sure on the ECMSpy stuff, but what you are describing is similar to what my X1 did a couple of weeks ago. Running rough for a couple of seconds then being fine for awhile. Changed the Engine Temp Sensor and its all better. I have read that when this sensor goes bad it doesn't always send a trouble code to the ECM. I know it isn't the cheapest thing to fix but I wouldn't be surprised if that was the problem. Mine lasted about 30,000 miles (Assuming it to be the original one). Got the new one from American Sport bike along with the special socket. | ||
| Bikerrides |
I was already leaning in that direction and someone has suggested disconnecting it to see if the running issue goes away. Then I'll know if it might need a new head temp sensor. I have also noticed that the bike runs better when the temps are cool/cold. I began noticing the issues more when it began to warm up and especially when we had temps in the mid to upper 80s and low 90s a few weeks back. Seems to me that the sensor could be getting a faulty reading and telling the ECM to shut it down. Or the ECM might need to be adjusted for the Engine temp. For example, I rode it about 30 miles after first connecting to ECMSpy. The temp was in the low 70s upper 60s and the bike ran great. Still noticed the skip at steady 3K rpm, but it wasn't as bad and sometimes wasn't there at all. It didn't once cut out like it had been doing. I'm sure I'll stumble onto the solution eventually. | ||
| Bikerrides |
OK, so now I've done my first tps reset. Hard to believe what HD charges to do it  Afterwards, I went out to test ride it and it did seem to run a little stronger; I can still feel that slight skip, but it seems to have moved to a lower rpm. I also noticed that the first time I turned on the switch to connect to ecmspy, nothing happened. The fuel pump didn't run nor did the dash lights come on. When I reached to turn the key back off, everything flashed and then it worked the next time I turned it on. I also noticed that the switch housing actually turned ever so slightly. So, I may have a loose connection or switch that is causing an intermittent short. I was kinda down low and I turned the key from a different angle, which may have been what caused it to reveal it's fault. I think this may be something I need to inspect and/or replace to make sure everything is connected good. | ||
| Buellistic |
Bikerrides: REMEMBER THIS: "THE DEVIL IS IN THE DETAILS !!!" It is a BIG BOX to think out of ... | ||
| Bikerrides |
So, I just got in from a longer test ride and it ran awesome...until. Ran roughly 20 miles of freeway at 70-80 mph and it ran very smoothly. I would notice that if I eased very slowly off the throttle, I could feel it skip a little. This would happen only when very slowly easing off the throttle; it was ran very smooth when easing on the throttle. I decided to exit and that's when things went haywire. As I began to accelerate away from the yield sign, it began to buck and pop badly and the CEL came on. I was really afraid it was going to die and I was 20 miles from home; at least it wasn't 200. I noticed it wouldn't protest as much as long as I was moving the throttle and figured I could limp it home. After about 5-6 miles, it felt like someone flipped a switch and it began to run good again; CEL still on. It ran another 6-7 mile really good and I opened the throttle a little to see if it would take it. It did, but as soon as I let off, there she went again. Bucking and popping. I managed to get her home and it seemed to run better the slower I went and at one point I coasted about a 1/2 mile at idle down a long hill close to home. When I had to use power again, it ran fine the rest of the way home. I connected ecmspy and checked the codes. There are no current codes; they're all under historical codes: Byte 1: OC Bit 2: Trouble Code 13-O2 sensor always rich Bit 3: Trouble Code 13-O2 sensor always lean (this was already there when I first began using ecmspy yesterday) I wonder if when the bike gets to a higher temp (20 miles at 70-80mph), the head temp sensor is telling the ecm to try to shut the bike down. That might explain why the bike came back to life after riding 35-40 mph at 2k-2500rpm over the next 10 min and the engine cooled down enough for the ecm to bring it back. Maybe when I got back on the throttle it sent the temp over the threshold again. Another possibility is that I have an exhaust gasket leak that becomes larger as engine temps rise and things begin to expand and contract. That could explain the O2 sensor code. I’m going to disconnect the HTS and see what happens. Here are some pictures of my ecmspy screens:   Anyone care to chime in? | ||
| 01x1buell |
well the afv looks a tiny bit rich but not that bad at all, the tps percentage should be about 5.1 per the manual which my bike loves. this is the first timoe i have looked at this thread, did you get a new 02 sensor?? i believe that you can turn the 02 off with ecmspy have you tried that? | ||
| Jramsey |
How long was the bike shut off before you hooked up,engine temp shows 74c/165f,if you hooked up immediately or while still running it should have a higher temp. Here's a shot of my S3T about an hour ago,pulled the bike in the shop and left it running. My temp was 179c/355f, I'd suspect your CHT sensor if you checked immediately.  | ||
| Jramsey |
Deleted double post........dialup sucks! (Message edited by Jramsey on April 21, 2012) | ||
| 01x1buell |
hey james isnt your afv slightly high ?? how does it run like that? | ||
| Bikerrides |
I pulled in my shop and shut the bike down. It took probably 5-7 min to get my laptop off the kitchen table, connect the cable, and then connect to the ecm. Next time I'll leave it running and then check it. | ||
| Bikerrides |
Neil, new O2 sensor last Sat/HD at a labor cost of $140. I supplied the sensor from AutoZone; $20. Still runs the same, maybe worse.  Do you know how to turn off the O2 sensor? Would that be the same as disabling the closed loop mode on the fuel injection system? How would you do that? I would think I could eliminate a DDFI sensor issue by trying that to see if it runs right. I just rode the bike about 15 miles w/the engine temp sensor disconnected and it is still skipping almost constantly; not as much coughing and bucking, though. I tried riding it at steady 3K rpm for the longest stretches I could to let the ecm learn. I noticed that if I rolled on the throttle hard, it wouldn't immediately have good power; it would pull hard like normal after a second or so. Bike ran a little better than this afternoon when it threw the 02 code, but not like it did prior; it was running great after the tps reset this morning. Needless to say, I think I've ruled out the ETS or HTS; if that were it, it should've cleared right up. I just had a thought that it may have fouled a plug when it was running so crappy and that might be why it's skipping so bad w/the ETS disconnected. I'll check the plugs in the morning and see if either one is fouled. I did some data logging for a few minutes this afternoon while the bike was up on the work stand; I wasn't riding. I don't know if the skipping will show up on the log, but if anyone knows how to read that chart, I can send it via PM or post it here. Let me know. |
