| Author | Message | ||
     Bikerrides |
I have just purchased a 1999 S3T with 25,000 miles. Being new to street motorcycles and Buell/Harley in particular, I would like advice on what to check immediately to make sure I don't ignore something that will cost me later. The seller had many of the service records, so I know it's been regularly maintained. It also has the stage 2 performance kit on it; it will haul ass and I've barely cracked the throttle really; then again, I don't really have a point of reference which to compare it to. I recently posted another thread asking advice on what to buy, a Honda or a Buell; the Buell won out. In that thread, someone mentioned that the wheel bearings were a problem as well as the ISOs on the '99 and would likely need to be upgraded. Are there any signs to look for regarding those issues? If the wheel bearings go, will it ruin the wheel? I'd really like to stay ahead of the curve on the usual maintenance/repairs, especially those related but not limited to the engine, trans, and chassis. So all advice is wanted and welcome. | ||
| Blks1l |
The only issue I know of with the wheel bearings is in regards to the PM wheels, and the bearings spinning, and I beleive it was caused by running the drive belt too tight. I am not sure of an ISO issue, unless it was just normal wear. | ||
| Bikerrides |
That's good to know as mine doesn't have the PM wheels. Anyone have bad bearings on the non-PM wheels? Blks1l, are you aware of any other typical issue on the '99 S3T that I would need a heads up on? | ||
| Guell |
yea, i had to replace my bearings on my wheels. Just take the wheels off and see if they turn smoothly. If not replace them | ||
| Two_seasons |
#1 job is to get a FSM-Field Service Manual. Or not. | ||
| Jayvee |
The oft-repeated line is that wheel bearings need replacing from time to time. Each replacement uses some tiny bit of material from where they go in. It's said that a wheel is only good for 5 or 6 bearing changes, before the wheel won't hold the outer bearing race stationary any more. Then either the wheel is replaced, or fixed by machining/welding, or the bearing is held in with red (?)loctite. | ||
| Dannybuell |
Or knurling and locktite | ||
| Bikerrides |
Thanks for the advice. Do any of you know if there is a way to increase the throttle friction? | ||
| Essmjay |
You can pull the wheels and turn the bearings by hand to see if they feel notchy. If the outer race spins as well, then you have spun bearings and you can either fix it or replace the wheels. You can also pull the seals on the outer bearings and replace the grease. I would have to go look again, but I think you can't get at the inside bearing (to grease it) on the rear side that has two bearings. I have had spun bearings in both castalloy and pm wheels, and unless my belt should be touching the ground it wasn't too tight. I also believe (for myself anyway) that running a wheel with a spun bearing is okay as long as the inner race turns easier than the outer race. But if there is too much friction and the outer race is spinning as you ride, not good. The isos (if original) are just likely to need replacing due to age and mileage. Even if you can't see problems with them you will still notice the improvement if you replace them. It's not because they were bad when new, just that they are old rubber parts. | ||
| Hogluvr |
Change the primary tensioner if it hasn't already been done, the original ones were thin metal and had a tendency to blow apart! | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
Pull the "grenade plate" (I believe the proper name is spring plate) from the clutch pack. Replace it with 2 steel plates and 1 friction plate. The rivets on these "grenade plates" have been known to fail, then you have bits of metal bouncing around inside your tranny. Check to be sure that your oil pump drive gear has been swapped to a bronze gear. This is another common point of failure, and can destroy lots of expensive bits if the original drive gear fails. Many people like swapping the top 2 pieces of each rocker box cover with the 1 piece unit from the XB series of Buells. This will move your breather system from the side of the heads to the top of the rocker covers which means less oil coming through the breather system. Whether you run the breather into the intake or reroute it into a catch can, less oil getting out is always good. As another bonus, the XB covers eliminate one entire gasket from the top end. One less potential leak. | ||
| Bikerrides |
I was out on my S3T for about 40 miles today getting myself more familiar w/the bike. I am wondering how much vibration is normal. I notice quite a bit under 2500 rpm, especially when going slower in higher gears; 30-40 mph in 4th or 5th gear just cruising along city streets. However, things really begin to smooth out above 2500 and don't notice much at all above 3500. Does this sound normal? I've read a lot about bad ISOs and was wondering how to check them. Thanks for all the advice. | ||
| Essmjay |
It isn't a Sportster, stay above 3200. | ||
| Hogluvr |
You might be lugging the motor at that speed in those gears, I wouldn't even ride my Harley that slow in those gears. The cams don't really start kicking in until upwards of 3K, that is probably what you feel around 3500. Not sure how to check the ISOs, I'm sure someone else will chime in... | ||
| Bikerrides |
I know, I know, I'm probably just taking it too easy and probably should not shift into 4th or 5th until the R's will stay above 2500 to 3000. There were a few times that I did that just so it would be smoother. Just didn't know how much was normal; I'm new to the H-D power and knew vibration would be more than a Japanese inline 4 or BMW boxer. I just don't know how much to expect on the Buell at the various engine speeds. I would still like to know how to check the ISOs so I can stay on top of them, when/if they need replacing. | ||
| Bikerrides |
Here's a picture of my S3T.  | ||
| Dannybuell |
Front isolator ~ take the tank off it is just behind neck. you can also look up from front of motor and see a torn isolator. There are 2 bolts going into front head, this is the front motor mount. This has a long bolt going up through the front isolator, the rubber area surrounding the bolt is the isolator. Rear isolators ~ By the footpeg with a big allen bolt in the middle. Tears can usually be seen there as well. American Sport Bike has the proper isolators. Rubber rots so it may look good and be ready to die.... | ||
| Two_seasons |
THAT S3T only cost you $4,000????? You got a steal there Stacey! BTW, are you male or female, just for reference? You should bring it out for homecoming. It would be an excellent ride and you'll know it inside/out by the time you get back home. That is one gorgeous bike!!!!! | ||
| Bikerrides |
I couldn't get the seller down from what he was asking, which was more than 20% high retail, so I broke down and paid $4K 'cause I was very likely not going to find another one in this condition. If it is as good mechanically as it is cosmetically, it'll be worth every penny! For the record, I'm a dude  | ||
| Bikerrides |
I took a flash light and tried to look at the isolators. The rear ones appear to be in very good condition. From what I can tell, the front one appears not to be rotten or torn. On one side I could see what looked like a gap between the rubber and the hole in the frame the rubber sits over; I assume it should be aligned so that it covers the entire opening. Is that normal or a sign that the iso might be bad? How many ISOs are there? I only found 3. | ||
| Two_seasons |
There is an iso thread within the "Old School" forum. Not that old either. Your bike will be happier to run in the 3,000 and up range. You are actually lugging your engine/trans when you go lower. These bikes were made for it. The bike will smooth out, the vibes will be much less, and you will enjoy the ride more. | ||
| Nakkers |
She's only got 5 gears so let her hum along nicely with anything above 3k. Even my solid mount sporty doesn't like to putt around too much. The nice thing about the S3 is when you get to red line, you still keep your fillings. Can't say the same thing about my Sporty. It should be pretty smooth at speed though. | ||
| Ocbueller |
Primary chain adjustment can really smooth out the low rpm vibes. Like was mentioned be sure you have the upgraded adjuster. SteveH | ||
| Blks1l |
Nice color combination!! | ||
| Dannybuell |
'what looked like a gap between the rubber and the hole in the frame ' I don't understand what that means. take the gas tank off and inspect from above, it should be very easy to assess one way or another. | ||
| Bikerrides |
Danny, I couldn't figure out how best to describe what I could see and obviously didn't do a good job. I'll try again. Looking from the right side of the bike from the bottom, the rubber was touching metal (the frame) but wasn't in one spot as if it wasn't seated completely. I believe there's a flange that the ISO bolt goes through and where the rubber doesn't touch I can see the inside edge of the opening (hole) where the ISO bolt passes through the flange. | ||
| Two_seasons |
read this... http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/669529.html?1330327389 Is this what you are talking about? | ||
| Oldog |
Rides those are the rears search the KV I have posted pix of a failing front, on the x1 you can look above the front of the motor and see if the rubber is torn or overly stretched, there was a quality problem with the buell parts, and they were too soft so they would fail in short order. NOTE Rear isos can cause a front failure I replaced all isos a couple years ago and used a drag specialties front, my bike shakes a lot but the iso is still good, | ||
| Dannybuell |
re: front mount. sounds like the unseated part you describe is the problem. the bracket part of the mount is metal, has 2 bolt holes 180 degrees apart. Inside the bracket is a round hole to which a hard piece of rubber is bonded. The rubber should be completely bonded to the bracket part of the mount. The vertical bolt goes through a bushing in the middle of the rubber mount. | ||
| Dannybuell |
Oldog ~ I have 95K miles on my S1 and have done several isolator swaps. Is the Drag Specialties front a poly bushing? I tried a poly front, nice but doesn't last as long. |
