| Author | Message | ||
     Bsanorton |
Going to replace the warped front rotor. Need a recomendation on pads & best place to buy. thanks | ||
| Kilroy |
American SportBike - a sponsor here | ||
| Ltbuell |
...as already said...."go see Al".... | ||
| Preybird1 |
Buy an aftermarket rotor. The stock one will warp again. And the one AL sells (scalloped rotor)is $10.00 cheaper than stock and 100 times better. here is a link for you http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/6050.html | ||
| Littlebuggles |
My stock rotor felt warped, I swapped out to Lyndall Golds and it cleaned the deposits and has worked great since. Make sure you check run out to verify it's warped unless you can find a clearance stock part on ebay for $120 it's still gonna cost you a lot.l | ||
| Bsanorton |
I got a freebie rotor from the original owner when I purchased the bike. I'm curious to know how bad it is. Thanks for the tips. | ||
| Harleyelf |
Be sure the new rotor is the best design. You should be able to see through the center of the nine mounting tabs. The first design had six mounting tabs with nuts, bolts, and warp washers. | ||
| Bsanorton |
Thanks. Yes, the spare looks that way. & if it ain't straight i'm going after Billybob, a most distinguished member here! | ||
| Harleyelf |
I think St Paul H-D still has a few for about $130. Lance651 is their seller name on Ebay. | ||
| Littlebuggles |
What Preybird says has some value. He ride's more, and at a higher intensity than I do, all the time... and he's at a tire shop and can check his run-out much more easily than I could. So if you are truly warping rotors you probably want to do the aftermarket upgrade. I was sticking to strictly stock compound pads prior to the lyndall's, and thought I'd warped my rotor, fortunately it turned out to just be build-up from the stock compound. The golds don't do that, for a trackable brake compound they don't require high temps for decent street braking, and seldom squeak or squeal in my use. They did fine on the track too, but I never ran more than three successive sessions, having other bikes available to ride at the time as well. | ||
| Preybird1 |
A lot of people also don't take into account that as rotors wear down they can actually start to come apart into tiny pieces. And then the pieces can actually become embedded into the brake pad itself and cause even more problems. So littlebuggles is right also about the pad compound helping a lot! It can make or break the braking system of the motorcycle. On some manufacturers brands (EBC for example) compounds you can actually take the brake pads back out of the caliper and see the metal bits off the rotor embedded in the pads because the brake pad compound has no metal in it and you can literally pick the piece of the rotor out of the pad if you are careful and don't mare the pad surface to much. | ||
| Preybird1 |
Here is a picture of a non-metallic-organic pad used on a stainless rotor. This combo works well. But the lyndals work even better and with the wave\scalloped rotor you will swear you have the power 2 calipers and rotors.   This rotor is worth its weight in gold "I LOVE IT"  | ||
| Bsanorton |
Thanks Prey, I plan to do a few track days on the X1 this year. That looks like the direction I should go. | ||
| Alfau |
Preybird1 Just looking at the pic of your front rotor and noticed the interesting front tyre wear pattern! looks over inflated to me! What tyre pressure do you use ? There is a lot of unused tyre on the outer edges there. | ||
| Preybird1 |
It is just the tire it is shot and it is not the right size for the bike. I was toying with different tire sizes for the track. And some brands of tire would simply lean a lot further onto the shoulder of the tire than others. I tried continentals, Michelin's, Dunlops,ect,ect. the tire was at 28 psi hot. The only thing good about that tire was it lasted 3 rear tires to 1 front. pretty damn good for this bike. |
