| Author | Message | ||
     Nwrider |
I have seen, but not up close, ignition switches mounted where my horn used to be on my X1. I want to mount my ign switch there and wondered if there is a factory bracket that would bolt to my horn mount tab? I could make something but a bolt on piece is always nicer. Thanks! | ||
| Brinnutz |
Yes, the S1's used that location. | ||
| Nwrider |
How does it mount? Any photos anyone could share? | ||
| Rkc00 |
Here is my S1.  | ||
| Ratbuell |
The ignition bracket is a bracket that comes off the upper tiebar engine mount bracket, and it also holds the choke knob (which, of course, you don't need on an X1). | ||
| Rkc00 |
Sorry but I do not have a closeup | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Looks just like this:  http://www.ebay.com/itm/Buell-1997-2002-M2-choke-b racket-11-27-/280768387853?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Ac cessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item415f199b0d Did the switch on my M2 to clean up the dash area. Easy peasy! Just search "Buell Bracket" on ebay and Bob's your uncle. | ||
| Buellistic |
In the MY 1997 S3T PARTS BOOK it is called a BRACKET,choke cable-ignition switch holder PART NUMBER 32470-96Y ... IMHO, this is the best place for you ignition switch as there is a lesser chance for water to get into your ignition switch which will cause problems ... | ||
| Greg_cifu |
And I think it's the WORST location for an ignition switch and lock. It's mounted to the engine and getting the crap shaken out of it. Not a good place for delicate locks and electrical switch contacts. Leave it alone. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
If you are going to relocate the switch, let me suggest you use the American Sport Bike replacement. It's well made. HD has been mounting switches in similar locations for years without incident. I've had mine like this for over a year without issue. | ||
| Nwrider |
Thanks guys! Greg.. I would leave it alone, but like fat bastard, I am cleaning up the dash area. Been debating other locations but haven't found any place suitable. Ft_bastard.. My switch is fine so I wont replace it until need be. I have even checked the wires after a long ride and they barely get warm so maybe I got a good one? Hehe. Think I will scoop up that bracket! I may try and make use of the horn mount tab so its not just hanging out there looking like it needs a purpose. I wonder if there is enough material there to cut a hole for the switch.. haha.. gotta go look now. That would probably be the best solution if the key doesnt hit my knee. Cheers! (Message edited by nwrider on January 15, 2012) | ||
| Maxbuell |
Nwrider see the hole in the frame brace to the right of the ign. in Rkc00 pic above. that is where I installed mine no need for a bracket just a couple of reducing washers (can get at any electrical supply cheap. | ||
| Akbuell |
While trying to find the source of an intermittent short (turned out to be a kink in the harness where it was routed over the oil tank) I disconnected the ign switch and ran a toggle switch, under the flyscreen. Could be another place to consider... | ||
| Robinpeck |
I have wanted to replace the ignition key/switch with a simple toggle switch. Is there any trick to this replacement? There seem to be a few extra wires down there. Electricity has never been my friend. | ||
| Buellistic |
The switch will last where it is on my 1997 S3T as "i" have 110,772.1 miles as of the last ride on my OEM IGN. SW. !!! | ||
| Nwrider |
Max... I considered that location but I was concerned my leg would hit the key, plus if I don't end up running a different tank I will eventually get some tank accents which use that hole to mount. Akbuell.. I like the idea of a hidden toggle switch.. maybe when my switch eventually fails. I would have to hide it elsewhere as I am not running a flyscreen. Robin... Me either.. I know just enough to screw things up. Before I start messing with wiring I make sure I have a pocket full of fuses  Buellistic... Wow... I only have 8k on mine! | ||
| Harleyelf |
Robin, you can easily replace your ignition switch with a heavy duty toggle if you just remember to put the hot lead on one side and the other two on the second side. Be sure the switch you use is rated high enough to carry 20 amps at 14 volts. | ||
| Nwrider |
I may end up going that route too. Thanks for the info Harleyelf! | ||
| S1owner |
I have detailed pics of how this mount installs pm me i will email them to you | ||
| Bartimus |
The ignition mounted on the side poses one problem that I have found. If you have more keys on your key ring, the weight of these keys flapping in the breeze will prematurely wear out the switch, and your keys will fall out while riding. DAMHIK I now just carry the one key for the ignition with me when I ride. | ||
| Buellistic |
This wear out factor also applies to the ignition switch on any of your vehicles .... | ||
| Harleyelf |
If you're waiting until the switch fails before you replace it, you can use its wires to run to your toggle switch. That way you won't have to butcher your stock connector and you can go back to a new stock switch if you want. Just remove the switch and cut the wires as close to it as possible, then solder and crimp new connectors on these wires for your new toggle switch. Put the dead switch back to keep the rain out and confound thieves. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
I have only the key and a very small key chain. I replaced my switch when it kept going out while riding. Don't wait until it is showing signs of going bad, or it will leave you stranded. The American Sport Bike replacement switch is inexpensive and well made. | ||
| Rjn |
i was also thinking about cleaning up my m2 in this area. i found a key less system, that should be easy to install and you can hide it somewhere. just have to find the link again | ||
| Nwrider |
My key is on a small light Buell key faub. No extra crap or keys. Weight should not be an issue.. plus the round keys lock in with that little tab when on and I wouldnt think they put too much or any pressure on the electrical portion of the switch. I am liking the idea of a hidden toggle switch more and more. The idea of leaving the lock cyl in place to confuse would be thieves is brilliant but when I am done I will not have a stock location to return it to. Similar dash to Ft_bastards. I have seen that keyless system and its as expensive as it is amazing. You waive a key faub near a sensor and it turns the ign on... waive again and its off. They even have a programmable chip the size of a tylenol capsule you can sew into a glove or the cuff of your jacket. Genius! But if memory serves me it was like 400-500 bucks. I have ordered a switch/choke bracket to see how I like the fitment and if I like it I will go with the American Sport Bike switch for good measure. I may end up going the toggle switch route not only because it would look cleaner but the weight savings will make my bike faster. Hahahaha. Just need to be super stealthy with it. Would hate that to be the reason my bike was stolen. Thanks for the info and ideas guys. As always you guys rock! | ||
| Nwrider |
Oh and thanks S1owner but after looking at my bike and the bracket its pretty straight forward. Thanks again guys. | ||
| Rjn |
found the link: http://www.x-race.net/Neuer-Ordner/alle-seiten/MLO CK.htm for 129,- euro which is 165 Dollar. | ||
| Harleyelf |
Remember to lock your forks every time you walk away from the bike if you go the toggle switch route. Thieves can see that you didn't put a key in your pocket. Handle the key and they'll assume it works the ignition, too. | ||
| Xl1200r |
I'm awful about bike keys. I can't tell you how many times I've gone back to my bike, freaking out because I can't find my keys, only to see I left them in the ignition the whole time. | ||
| Nwrider |
Rjn.. A lot cheaper than I thought. Harleyelf.. Solid advice sir. Xl1200r.. I have managed to that only once luckily! |
