| Author | Message | ||
     01x1buell |
i believe that i have a bad gasket (oil leaking ) and was wondering the procedure to remove it/? | ||
| Buellistic |
Have HELP "INFO" written up for this, just PM me for a copy ... | ||
| 01x1buell |
pm sent and thank you in advance | ||
| Harleyelf |
Tried tightening the bolts? Don't be in a rush to disassemble. | ||
| 01x1buell |
yes i have re tightened the side case and it was loose ,now after re tightening is is still leaking | ||
| Jcs64 |
thats a nasty job to remove that cover but Im sure you already noticed that. I just noticed on mine that the pushrod tubes are not collapsable like Im used to on my older bikes. This means you must remove the rocker covers to get the pushrods out. Id look to see if you could retro fit older adjustable pushrods and collapsable tubes, then just cut your old ones out w/ bolt cutters. Sounds crude but it would save you alot of time. Jeff | ||
| 01x1buell |
buellistic, i loosened the bolts as described and now i have the cover about one half of an inch off and it does not want to move any more , any hints? thanks in advance i just do not want to break anything | ||
| Buellistic |
DID YOU TAKE VALVE SPRING PRESSURE OFF THE "CAMS" ??? | ||
| 01x1buell |
well i guess i did not do that, and i am missing some vital information on the whole process of removing this then. well i am glad that i did not try to take it off then. | ||
| Eshardball |
Neil, You have to remove the rockers to relieve the pressure on the cams. The suggestion about buying the adjustable pushrods is to be able to service the cam case like on a sportster without having to take the rocker boxes off. Coming to grips with the idea of cutting perfectly good pushrods and covers is the hard part. Check the knowlege vault. You can use my S1 manual if you need since the procedure should be pretty much the same. I can assist if you need. | ||
| 01x1buell |
ahh yes eric that would be nice if you could help this is new to me and i do not want to screw anything up | ||
| Buellistic |
ADJUSTABLE PUSH RODS ARE TOO "HEAVY" to ever put in my engine or any engine that "i" would ever build ... "PLUS" they are a PAIN in the ARSE to adjust !!! YOU MUST BRING THE CYLINDER TO TOP DEAD CENTER WHEN YOU TAKE THE ROCKER ARMS OFF !!! | ||
| Gmaan03 |
Ok so I did the same thing a week ago, replaced my right side gear case gasket. Followed the book to a T but now I have some bad metallic knocking when the motor in running. I rode around a bit to see if the lifters would pump up, I assume they did. what other problems do I have? What did I do wrong? | ||
| Harleyelf |
Neil, have you removed the cam position sensor trigger? | ||
| 01x1buell |
well i think i am going to ask eric for some help , i dod not want to screw anything up on this,, thanks guys | ||
| Harleyelf |
Remove the cam position sensor after marking its position. Then remove the slotted spinner cup underneath it. Now your case cover will come right off. | ||
| 01x1buell |
i would love to take this off now but as i said i do not have a manual ( i cant find one) so i just want to be walked through this. | ||
| Buellistic |
"BEFORE" you take off the CAM SENSOR PLATE make an alignment mark with a perminate marker so when you put the sensor back on so your timing will be as it was !!! IMHO, you should check the timing to make sure it is correct, TOO FAST IT WILL DETONATE AND RUN HOT and TO RETARDED IT WILL LOOSE POWER !!! | ||
| Harleyelf |
A single scratch marking the plate and cover will do for the alignment. A screwdriver will remove the two bolts holding the sensor to the cover. The spinning trigger is only held on by a bolt through its center (1/4", I think). The cover will slip right off. Don't damage the oil seal underneath the trigger. Setting the timing when you re-assemble the bike is a good idea. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/Manuals/S1_1996-1997_Service/intro.pdf should get you to a manual good enough to cover this task. (Message edited by harleyelf on December 11, 2011) | ||
| Buellistic |
Harleyelf: Have seen so many scratches on the plate "i" had to use a perminate marker ??? | ||
| Harleyelf |
Too true, folks tend to over-mark that area. The permanent marker is too wide, though. Perhaps if he has a lot of scratches, he can make an ink mark and then scratch it with a thin scratch mark. | ||
| 01x1buell |
i just took off timing cover and there are no previous marks anywhere it is spotless so i will only mark it once. | ||
| Harleyelf |
Remember not to use normal rivets if you put the old cosmetic cover back on. Most of us use Sportster timing covers held on by screws. | ||
| 01x1buell |
so once i have removed the timing cover how on earth do i get the wire out from underneath the starter i have located the plug but how do i do that? and i still have to remove the pushrods correct? | ||
| Buellistic |
01x1buell: There is no reason to remove the sensor wire from the cam cover unless it is bad !!! | ||
| 01x1buell |
ok ok | ||
| Jim2 |
I left the plug in and just used ties or twine to support the wire and cover so I didn't have to do twice as much work to unplug the wire. I would rest in on top of the peg between work sessions. Be careful not to stress the wire. It's a bit of a pain but more so to remove the primary and starter to get to the plug. I completely removed the valve covers to unload the springs and get them out of the way for more room. I removed the push rod bases. You can then move the base of the tubes and get a good angle to lift out the push rods. Take pictures, track/log/use tape to mark what goes where. Push rods have paint stripes to indicate which is intake and which is exhaust. I removed the lifters and placed them in a margarine tub of engine oil to keep them wet so they work right away when you put it all back together. Try not to let cams drop out but especially not before taking a good picture of the alignment so you can put them all back together again. There are alignment dots cast or machined into the cams. I replaced the camcover gasket, pushrod tube base plates with the newer one piece style from American Sport Bike, pushrod tube seals and o-rings, and valve cover gaskets/umbrella valves; all at once just to make sure I'm not fixing one leak and introducing two new leaks. I don't see any real good way to short-cut this job. Key to make sure engine is in right place before starting this job (I can't remember how to describe this process), unloading the valve springs, and keeping the cams in the right alignment or making sure you know how to return them to the right alignment. They did fall out for me and I used my book and pictures to put it all back together again, like a puzzle. | ||
| Buellistic |
Remove the timing plug on right side of the engine, between front/rear posh rod covers ... Take the rocker arm cover off so you can see the intake open and then start to close(same process for either front or rear cylinder TDC) ... Transmission in 5th gear, use the rear wheel to turn over engine(spark plugs removed) As the intake starts to close have a flat blade screw driver in the timing plug hole which will drop into the vertical Top Dead Center "SLOT" on the flywheel ... Both intake and exhaust valves will be closed !!! | ||
| 01x1buell |
if i am only changing the gasket then i do not have to do any of the above then???? | ||
| 01x1buell |
ohh and what is the part number for the fual filter??? |
