| Author | Message | ||
     Natexlh1000 |
A long time ago, mine lit its engine light and the code said "front injector" It turned out to be a wire chafed through to bare metal on the front injector. It was under warranty at that time so the dealer said all he did was add that liquid electrical tape and move the wire away from whatever it was rubbing. It's been about 60,000 miles since then. | ||
| Two_seasons |
I know this sounds stupid, but are you sure your battery post connections are tight? It's a 10mm screw. Snug but not too tight. Never add the trouble codes to make a sum code. Did you actually remove the Engine Temperature sensor and check the wiring? If you did not, the best way to see if you have a chaffed wire would be to remove the tank cover, rotate the tank so you can look down into the TP sensor recess. They usually chafe at the top where the wire exits the head. Yes, Trouble Code 11 is a TPS issue. I'd suspect a bad ground or wiring before anything else. These bikes are subjected to hot/cold, wet/dry, vibration, and for all of us to some degree, neglect. This sensor is supplied 5 volts DC. You should see between 0.5-1.5 volts at idle, closed throttle. 3.9-4.9 volts at wide open throttle. A Code 11 will set if the TP sensor signal voltage does not fall within this acceptable range. NOTE: If you remove the TP sensor, it must be recalibrated according to the service manual. Do not remove unless you are absolutely sure that the TP sensor is defective. There are three wires that terminate at the TP sensor connector. A= Red/White wire B= Violet/Yellow wire and C= Black/White wire. You can use a multimeter to test this sensor. With ignition on and NO START, observe the scaling of voltage on the multimeter. At the closed position, there is little voltage moving through the sensor. At wide open throttle, there should be over 4 volts moving through the sensor. When you slowly move the throttle, there should be a smooth steady scaling with no spikes or low voltage observed. I'm assuming you know how to use a multimeter. Do this test. At TPS connector 88 (under the seat) connect your multimeter to Terminal A = Red/White and Terminal C = Black/White. Turn ignition ON, no start. Do you have approximately 5 volts? If yes, then connect your multimeter between pin 2 of ECM connector 11 (the gray 12 pin connector) and ground. Is the resistance greater than 1 megaohm? If yes, then check continuity between pin 2 of connector 11 to Terminal B (violet/yellow) of connector 88 at the TPS. Do you have continuity? if yes, then replace the TP sensor. The three wires at the TP sensor connector, ABC, connect directly to the ECM via connector 11 at the ECM and are A=pin1, B=pin2, and C=pin3 respectively. They also go to the Cam Position Sensor. Some on BadWeb have noted chaffing of the wiring at the Cam Position Sensor, located inside the cover that has the rivets attaching it on the right side of the engine. Report back after these checks/tests please. We are here to help you. | ||
| Snafu5962 |
battery terms are tight and I do know how to use a multimeter so as soon as it stops raining I will go out and try the tests if I can figure out where there 88 connector is. I dont think I was reading the flashes correctly and I think it was just a series of flashes and no code stored. But, what do I know I am just a motorcycle lover trying to get his bike back on the road not a mechanic. I'll report back with my findings. Thanks guys | ||
| Akbuell |
88 connector is behind the airbox base (the stock one) and under the fuel tank, on the RH side. | ||
| Two_seasons |
Yeah, the 88 connector is the one that is connected to the Throttle Position sensor, TPS. I wish you were closer or I was. I'd help physically if I could. | ||
| Snafu5962 |
ok its still raining out here unfortunatly so I cant do the tests yet. If I got ECM spy and pluged it in would it tell me everything I need to know without having to do all of these tests? I appreciate the willingness to help, you guys are good people. | ||
| Two_seasons |
ECMspy is used for tuning, primarily. It can be used for checking the TPS to see that the voltage increases w/o spikes or flat spots in the TPS potentiometer. It checks continuity with either working or not working status. It won't find what Buell and HD describe as the "wiggle test" where you are trying to find an intermittent issue. Easy way to eliminate something else. And it can be done in the rain. Replace the plugs and the plug wires. Use the NGK iridium plugs, they are excellent. Napa part # 6546. HD plug wires, part # 32091-98. Less than $30 bucks and you eliminate two things. | ||
| Snafu5962 |
We followed the posts on testing the ECM and see some flaws with the testing procedure. With the gray ECM connector disconnected and a voltmeter on the Red/White pin and the Black/White pin (on the ECM itsself, not on the cable to the TPS) I yield 5Volts, as it seems it should. Continuity between all three wires to the TPS and the connector to the ECM have been determined as "Good". I presume next is to test the resistance variance from the TPS at different throttle levels. What's the best way to test this? Is there anything else we should be testing? If so, please explain where and how to test. Thanks! | ||
| Two_seasons |
Connector 88 is the connector that goes from the bike ECM connector 11, through the harness to the TPS. Connect the multimeter to connector 88 pins A or B, which is Red/White or Violet/Yellow respectively and pin C, which is the Black/White. At the idle position, you should see on the multimeter a resistance value that will add or subtract (depending on whether it's A or B) as you increase the throttle position. REMEMBER, DO THIS WITH THE ENGINE OFF and yes, it can be done with no power to the TPS, because you are checking resistance, not voltage. Ensure that you see no flat spots where there isn't any corresponding resistance change when you move the throttle position. If you don't note any flat spots as you roll the throttle from idle to Wide Open, and back again smoothly, then the TPS sensor (which is a potentiometer) should be OK. Ensure that the connector wiring is not chaffed and the same with the harness wiring to the ECM. Have you replaced the plugs and plug wires yet? | ||
| Snafu5962 |
I will retry those things once it stops raining again and report back. I have replaced the plugs but not the wires but both plugs seem to be getting spark. I ordered an ecm spy cable yesterday does anyone have the program available for download? | ||
| Snafu5962 |
I just tried out ecm spy and I cant even get it to read the bike. What do I do? | ||
| Hybridmomentspass |
Did you follow all instructions for ECMspy? You have to make sure the switch is toggled on, and then hit the 'link' or 'connect' or something button on ECMspy Sometimes I plug mine it and its the same thing, its not finding the bike, then I remember to make sure everything is switched 'on' | ||
| Harleyelf |
The tuning guide has instructions for assigning a USB port that ECMspy can recognize. Are you set to "professional"? | ||
| Snafu5962 |
ahhh hah! i knew there had to be an "on" button on the program. I will give it a try tomorrow morning and report back. Thanks! | ||
| Hybridmomentspass |
and I save the day again.....  Yeah,click on the keys in upper left corner the 'offline/online' that should do it for you as long as youve also got the ignition switch and kill switch to run hope it helps | ||
| Snafu5962 |
I was able to get ecm spy to work today and pulled some codes. No current codes were present but in the historic I found these codes: Code 11: TPS short to ground Code: 15: intake air sensor shorted to supply voltage or open Code 44: BAS short to supply or open | ||
| Snafu5962 |
I should also note that after doing research I just disabled the BAS and it did not fix it. | ||
| Two_seasons |
Make sure you check the CPS, Cam Position Sensor too. I've read that some on this board have found chaffed wiring where the CPS wiring goes around the plate. Make sure you don't have this issue. Report back when you can. I'm very interested in your success. | ||
| Snafu5962 |
how would I test the CPS? What about the air intake sensor or the TPS issues? | ||
| Snafu5962 |
I also want to note that all of the TPS values are correct when rolling through the throttle | ||
| Two_seasons |
Basically, the CPS, Crank Position Sensor, is used for timing purposes. BUT, the CPS controls WHEN the spark plugs fire, so, going back to your original post at the start of this thread, that would also be an area to check as this area AND the TPS supply the ECM with data to control the closed loop mode. From the TPS, Throttle Position Sensor, connector 88 (connector is by air cleaner backplate on stock bike), there are two common wires that also go to the CPS, Crank Position Sensor. They are 1.) Connector 88 Pin A (Red/White wire) to Connector 14 Pin A (Red/White wire) (connector is near starter) and 2.) Connector 88, Pin C (black/white wire) to Connector 14, Pin C (black/white wire). So, you'll need to check wiring between each connector, 88 and 14, AND from each connector to the sensor itself. Prior posts have found chaffing from connector 14 to the CPS around the mounting plate that holds the CPS in place. Vibration and the wire angle cause this. You'll need to remove the CPS cover to inspect this area from the CPS to Connector 14, paying careful attention to the wiring as it exits the CPS itself and going around the mounting plate heading to connector 14. Don't concern yourself with the IAS, Intake Air Sensor, at this time. Have you checked your ETS, Engine Temperature Sensor yet? That would throw DTC 14. | ||
| Snafu5962 |
Ok I will check the CPS next time I can get out to the bike. Its hard because Im a full time college student and I work 38 hrs a week and I have to work on the bike in my parking lot with no shelter from rain. My question is if its just a chaffed wire or broken sensor then how could it run and progressively get worse and then never start up again ever since I took it to the HD dealer for diagnostics? And they told me it was just a fuel pump  . This is getting super confusing lol What I did test today was the plug wires and coil. They both are reading within spec. Thank you for your continuing support. The X1 WILL run again. | ||
| Harleyelf |
You know how to get to the CPS? The timing cover plate is held on by rivets, which you drill out. Then you remove the real timing cover plate by removing the two screws that hold it on. Now you can see the cam position sensor. Make a scratch on the mounting plate and the housing next to it so you can put it back in the same position. Remove the screws holding it on and inspect it for burnt damage. To check it without dis-assembly, pull the plugs, let them hang from their wires, put the bike in gear with the key on, and roll until both plugs have fired. If they fire only once each and it happens while you can hear compression whooshing out of the plug holes, it's okay. The answer to your chafed wire question is that the wire strands inside the insulation touch each other intermittently. | ||
| Snafu5962 |
those rivets...can you replace them with your standard pop rivets at the hardware store or buy something special from Harley? | ||
| Harleyelf |
Absolutely not! Standard pop rivets will leave debris inside the motor. I use a Sportster timing cover held on by screws. If you're emotionally attached to the writing on your cosmetic cover, you can buy the rivets at the H-D dealer. They apply with the standard pop rivet gun. | ||
| Two_seasons |
Something else I totally forgot about. BadWeb, this board, has a section called BRAN (Buell Rider Assistance Network) which is a resource for BadWebbers to contact folk in the area where they are traveling through and happen to be broken down, which you are. The traveling bit, for now anyhow, is school. Here is the link to that forum. You'll have to log in to access it. Find Pennsylvania and someone kind of close to you and with a garage http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/boar d-auth.cgi?file=/42/42.html&lm=1318563487 This, hopefully, will help you now that the weather isn't! | ||
| Snafu5962 |
I will invest in the Sportster cover with screws to prevent future headaches. Thanks Harleyelf. Two_seasons...I remember that section and I had not been able to find it lately...thanks! There has to be someone near Pittsburgh that can help me with some of the extremely technical junk. | ||
| Harleyelf |
The under-plate will get you through the winter. It's held on by screws and will protect the components from moisture with a dab of silicone in each rivet hole. Have you had a chance to do the rolling spark test? My '99 was giving five sparks per cylinder per revolution. Sometimes it would try to start and then try to run backward. | ||
| Snafu5962 |
no i havent tried the rolling spark test yet...how do you get the plugs to stay connected to the the jug so you can roll with it? also, where is the timing inspection hole? | ||
| Harleyelf |
Let them hang from their wires touching the cylinder fins. The timing inspection hole is between the cylinders on the right side, conveniently located near the timing cover plate. It will spit oil at you if you attempt to check timing with the engine running unless you procure or make a lucite plug. Front cylinder TDC is indicated by a vertical line. Be sure you're on the front compression stroke and you can static set it, or raise the rear wheel and turn it in gear to check if it sparks at TDC. Get a service manual. |
