| Author | Message | ||
     Jamhamm |
i apologize in advance, i know this is covered somewhere but i don't have my manual with me, so i dont know the technical name of the part. so, very front of the bike there is the triangle engine mount, to that there are a few heim joint connections that end in a stud at the engine what is that connection called and why does mine leak? im assuming the right side of the engine case has to come off and that mounting stud needs a new gasket or whatever but i know someone else has had this leak and knows how to fix it  thanks guys | ||
| Buellistic |
send us a picture ... | ||
| Jamhamm |
at work, dont have a camera - as soon as i get home tonight, i'll get some snaps uploaded thanks | ||
| M2typhoon |
If you look closely at the end that goes into the case you will notice that there is a bit of pipe dope/sealant on the treads of the piece coming out of/going into the case. I can only assume that is what is leaking. If it is, it needs to resealed. My M2 had the same thing happen to it. | ||
| Jamhamm |
yea it can't be a difficult fix - it's just that i don't have my service manual to see how it's done gotta stop it though as it's throwing a fair bit of oil back and along the bike [chin fairing, belt, header, etc] i'll post pics here in a few hours once i get home | ||
| Jamhamm |
here is my baby - as you can see, oil is making parts of her very ugly!  here is a detail of the front heim joint with the oil drip - this is after stopping, while riding, it's coming out of there pretty good  | ||
| M2typhoon |
Just as I thought... Use pipe dope with teflon tape to reseal the bolt. The bolt hole actually goes into the case which is the reason for the oil. Make sure to check the area for cracks as well!! (Message edited by m2typhoon on July 11, 2011) | ||
| 01x1buell |
btw very nice x1!!! | ||
| Jamhamm |
when you say pipe dope with teflon tape do you mean use both / pipe dope and teflon tape or... do you mean use pipe dope with teflon - like the oatey or slic-tite? do i have to drain the oil before i undo that bolt or can i just pop it off, clean it up and apply the sealant and torque it back down [spec?] and thanks about the x1 - she's a true beauty and after i get this oil leak sealed i can clean up the pipes | ||
| M2typhoon |
1. Clean threads of said bolt 2. Apply teflon tape first (about 2 full clockwise revolutions) 3. apply a light coating of regular dope and reinstall to specified torque. You can wipe off any extra dope. Remember... THREADS HAVE TO BE CLEAN!! | ||
| Jamhamm |
thanks m2 - so i go outside and yank off said bolt [it was loose, came off super easy] and low and behold, me thinks this guy is a little bent outta shape  there was residue of some type of sealant but the oil had long since broken it down heading to ace hardware to see if i can find a grade 8 replacement bolt and some pipe sealant - ill post back my results | ||
| Jamhamm |
back from ace - got my pipe dope - grade 8 bolt - teflon tape! let's see if my first buell repair goes swimmingly  | ||
| Kalali |
Is that a factory color? Never seen one before in that color. Very nice. | ||
| Fahren |
^^ Yeah, beautiful bike. | ||
| Jamhamm |
*update* everything was clean and dry when i got to work this morning [about a 20 minute ride] i checked and the bolt was still torqued to spec - thanks for all your help guys! and thanks for the compliments, i love this bike! now i gotta figure out how to clean the oil off the header! | ||
| Blake |
I'd skip the tape and dope and apply loctite. I don't like the idea of using teflon tape or pipe dope on a structural bolted connection, especially pipe dope. Bolt threads are not like pipe threads. The tape may be okay. Pipe dope no way. | ||
| Blake |
Plus I'd bet that the service manual calls for loctite on that bolt. | ||
| Fahren |
At least he now has the material on hand to fix that leaky shower head arm! : - ) | ||
| Jamhamm |
since it's all together and holding i'll leave it be for now - if it fails anytime soon ill try the blue threadlock on it now i need to fashion some sort of catchcan - just cause venting to the street can't be good on old mother nature | ||
| M2typhoon |
My M2 had dope on the bolt from the factory. It leaked, I re-doped and reinstalled and it's been fine since. That was 6500 miles ago. I just never like using threadlocker on steal to aluminum. Just a personal thing. BTW.. How the hell do you think the bolt got bent???Anyone with a service manual care to chime in about this bolt?? (Message edited by m2typhoon on July 12, 2011) | ||
| Hootowl |
If the bike has ever tipped over, it is conceivable that the impact bent the bolt. | ||
| Blake |
>>> My M2 had dope on the bolt from the factory. It's not pipe dope. | ||
| M2typhoon |
Why don't you tell us what it is then instead of making a comment like that. | ||
| Fahren |
Yeah, Blake - give him the STRAIGHT DOPE. That way, the OP's bolt would be fixed, too! | ||
| Bluzm2 |
It's factory thread locker.. | ||
| Blake |
That Loctite already mentioned, the blue/nonpermanent grade. Loctite for engine and chassis bolts. Pipe dope for the kitchen sink drain. | ||
| M2typhoon |
Answer me this then.. why is it white if it's supposed to be blue loctite? | ||
| Oldog |
blue lock tite, is not blue when it dries in some cases... I decided to stay outa this but, pipe thread compound is for filling voids in TAPERED PIPE THREADS, to lubricate and ease assembley and allow you to tighten the threaded parts (pipe) tighter machine threads, are straight clean the hole with solvent, clean the bolt with solvent apply locktite and torque to spec | ||
| Jamhamm |
day 2 - about 175 miles after fix - still dry as a bone under there next time i change my oil im going to pull the sensors at the bottom of the engine and clean that whole area up plan on installing them with a little blue threadlock - that's the only area of the bike that has any oil on it now even after 17k this engine is surprisingly dry still sucks that i got oil on my headers - can i take a little fine steel wool or sand paper to them to clean them up? | ||
| Hootowl |
Ordinarily yes, but your headers look like they've been ceramic coated. I don't know what steel wool would do to the finish. |
