| Author | Message | ||
     Guell |
id leave the shock on it that you have, its a better shock than the one they want to put on. | ||
| Cyclonecharlie |
Darn you Matt, I was gonna try and talk him out of that shock.  | ||
| Hellraged |
damn erm then why have a recall on it? if you say so ill keep the one i got then :P | ||
| Hellraged |
so any comments on the new pics i posted? or all looks good? going to attempt the repair sat. when the front pulley comes in friday (i hope) :P | ||
| Hootowl |
Your isolator bolts appear to be hitting your frame, or close to it. Are your isolators torn? | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Rear bumper on the shock appears to be torn loose. Prolly needs some attention. | ||
| Hellraged |
where do i buy a new rear bumper? and is it easy to fix or do i even have too? whats the dmg it could cause if i just leave it like it is. Hoot. im not sure about the isolator bolts.. i see in the pic it does look like its hitting the frame but im sure there not and just the angle i had the camera i will take a look saturday. if they are hitting the frame where do i buy isolators at? | ||
| Hellraged |
and what size is that axle nut thing i have to loosen to get the belt loose to put on this new front pulley? im going to be buying all the sockets needed friday. I know i need a 1 7/8 socket for the pulley nut any others i need thanks? :P | ||
| Guell |
36mm for the axle nut | ||
| Hellraged |
thanks matt i think i saw that one in advanced auto parts today :P | ||
| Hellraged |
ok so that 1/2inch star nut that goes into the swing arm , guess its the isolator bolt? it is high up there but dont see nothing broke.. i think the swing arm is way down after i take off the axle nut and belt adjustment screw can i take off the isolator bolt and move the swing arm up? i put the ruler up to it today and just to see if the middle of the front pulley and the swing arm pivot point (isolator bolt?) and rear pulley was in line and it seem the rear pulley is way down there... im guessing i can raise it up? .. so the sockets i need are 1 7/8" for the front pulley.. 36mm for the axle nut and a 1/2 inch star thingy lol? is that all i need to do this job? thanks! doing it sat. would like to have everything already and no surpises lol | ||
| Hellraged |
oh i turned the transmission shaft with my hands today to see if i felt any rubbing or resistance or anything out the ordinary and it turns fine with nothing catching or anything so im guessing the bearings are ok :P | ||
| Guell |
I'm guessing your rear iso's are toast, your front isolator was torn too when I looked at it | ||
| Hellraged |
do i need to take that nut off? or what exactly goes in there because all i see in there is the nut (the isolator bolt) .. i see nothing in the manual that talks about it or anything im stumped on it. what could go wrong if i dont replace the rear isolator right away? can i still ride it ? | ||
| Hellraged |
damn i just read somewhere you have to take apart the whole bike to replace the isolator? man this bike is really pissing me off now. | ||
| Hellraged |
ok so i cant find in the manual , but where can i put jacks to get this bike off the ground since i dont have a bike stand? i know the 2 foot pegs in the front and possibly a jack under the gearbox (left side of bike if your sitting on it) where the clutch is? or if anyone has a link explaining it would be appreciated. | ||
| Guell |
be very careful jacking on the engine case, as it can crack. Make sure you put a piece of wood under it to distribute the load. You can put jack stands under the foot pegs to lift the bike, not sure if those would be in the way to do the iso's. You will basically have to remove the swingarm to do the isolators. I would go ahead and put a new belt on too while it was all torn down that far. The front isolator is far more straightforward in replacing. The new updated buell part is good and is about 40 bucks i believe. http://danielcstarr-pages.blogspot.com/2008/09/una uthorized-scott-free-technique-for.html That is a good method of replacing them. Probably a days worth of work, not simple, but not hard i think. | ||
| Hellraged |
dont think imma be messing with the isolators righ tnow.. gonna be fixing the front pulley and getting the belt on and stuff so i can actually ride the bike again, isolator thing will prob. have to wait until tax time or something.. so where to put the jacks under the bike? ill put a peice of wood ontop of the jacks that go under the bike to even out the weight.. i have 2 jack stands ill put on the foot pegs.. where should i put the jacks at? been searching all night on the net cant find anything  | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Jack stands go under the passenger peg brackets so you can raise the rear wheel off the ground. Jack goes under the middle front of the engine, where the case halves meet (for supporting the engine, say for unloading the front isolator for replacement). Are you asking so you can adjust your belt, or for the isolator project you are going to put off until next year? Maybe you can work a couple hours overtime or skip a few soda in order to afford the front iso replacement. That bad part has the potential to break your bike in a bad way. | ||
| Guell |
The iso's need to be done ASAP if your going to continue riding it. If the rears are shot and you just do the front then you risk tearing the front again. If left alone you risk damaging the front head mounting surfaces and cracking them | ||
| Hellraged |
ok i guess ill do the isolators aswell, how much do they cost? guess ill call harley up today after work and order the part, maybe i could do them next weekend. Was askin littlebuggie so i could adjust the belt. | ||
| Onespeedpaul |
you can order the front and rear isolators from http://www.americansportbike.com/ for right around $75 shipped. | ||
| Hellraged |
ok i will get those asap.. but tomorrow imma just going to put on the front pulley and adjust the belt and suspension adjustment to fit me because i havent done that yet since i bought the bike. Maybe in a week or 2 replace the isolators. man this sucks forreal, luckly for me i really love the bike so :P ill get her all good and running one day and hopefully i wont have to mess with it too much. | ||
| Hellraged |
found the rear isolator on americansportbike but cant seem to find the front any link? or what section is it under? | ||
| Eshardball |
You can use Drag Specialties part #DS-243515. It is a little stiffer than stock so some increase in vibration may be observed below 2500RPM. Longevity seems to be good though. It is available at just about any HD aftermarket store or from any catalog house like J&P Cycles. | ||
| Guell |
if you want that ds iso, i have one that ill sell for 15 bucks. | ||
| Hellraged |
ill take it Guell, we will make payment arrangment and stuff next friday when i get paid :P ... also i got my bike fixed woot :P it runs great... the suspention (thing you measure from rear axle to blinkers on the tail and stuff) was over 2 inchs off! with me sitting on it it was crazy , but i made it so its 3/4 off difference with me sitting on it. i then but the belt on and made it loose seems to ride better. While i had it jacked up i looked at the rear iso's.. they look fine except they came off that little lip there suppose to be on. it moved when i was jacking up the bike.. the front iso's look good also couldnt find the "crack" dunno.. but when i got this front pulley on and was gonna try it out the vibrations are just about gone... alot less now for some reason, the "wind shield" is almost at a stand still when riding and idleing its great .. over all the bike runs alot better now im very happy  i torqued the front pulley nut to 50 ft lbs.. manual said so is this correct? thanks. | ||
| Kalali |
"i torqued the front pulley nut to 50 ft lbs" You then need to mark and turn it 30 degrees. If 30 degrees doesn't line up with the bracket notches, turn it a little more until you can put the bracket on. | ||
| Hellraged |
ok i will do that today then what i gathered from the manual was if the lockplate didnt line up with the holes after the inital 50 ft lbs torque you could turn it 45 degrees more, but since it lined up after 50 ft lbs i didnt bother.. i will do it today then thanks :P | ||
| Hellraged |
ok so was riding good lol but now it still runs good but now it like auto accelerates... you think the clutch needs adjusting? or where do i start? like when i have in gear it dont go no faster than where i have the trottle.. but when i pull in the clutch leaver it goes to like 4k rpms... when i release the clutch it acts like normal and i can accelerate faster.. had to use kill switch when i got home to turn it off because it was idleing at 4k rpms and was prob. gonna go faster than that... not sure ;( one thing after the next lol |
