| Author | Message | ||
     01x1buell |
the rear portion of my header is rubbing the frame.. i recently put header wrap on and tried to move it away from the frame a little bit but it did not work and still hits.. any helpful hints. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Loosen EVERY exhaust bolt - both bolts at each head, the hangar at the bottom of the header, the clamp that holds the muffler to the header, and the rear muffler hangars. Wiggle the entire exhaust around to get it "moving". Start at the rear head, and torque those two bolts. Wiggle it all. Torque the 2 bolts on the front head. Wiggle it all. Torque the next bolt in the exhaust path (depending on your header, it might be the header hangar and it might be the muffler clamp). Wiggle it all. Then the next bolt. Do that till you're out of bolts  If that doesn't do it, you may have an isolator failing, but realignment should handle it in most cases. | ||
| 01x1buell |
thanks i tried that already but i will go ahead and keep trying. im sure i will get it | ||
| Jramsey |
Weak/dieing rear Iso's are the most common cause. (Message edited by Jramsey on June 06, 2011) | ||
| 01x1buell |
well i loosened them all up and can barely get a screwdriver in between the header and the frame.. im pissed. im taking the whole exhaust off now cause the wrap is f#$@ed so i need to redo the wrap. damn it i guess im not riding to work tomorrow. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
perhaps something is a tiny bit wrong with your front engine mount? Is it vibrating more than usual? | ||
| 01x1buell |
no it seams the same .except when i put my d&d and race map it seems to shake a little more not bad though.. | ||
| 01x1buell |
and i have decided that i am going to get rid of the header wrap and just deal with the scratches on the pipes . f it i dont want to mess around with this bs anymore.. it will still look good. and fit better | ||
| Essmjay |
Dumping the header wrap is a good idea. I had some on for a year and it ended up cooking the rear bend where it comes out of the head. This caused massive pitting and corrosion on the surface. The end result just wasn't worth the possible benefits. The scratches you have now can be sanded out. | ||
| 01x1buell |
i might of understated the scratches the previous owner (denies it ) but did drop the bike at maybe 5 mph . there is a slight impression in the pipe not much maybe 1 eight of an inch at the most . . so should i just wet sand it out or what.. what would you recommend. | ||
| 01x1buell |
the rear header portion is still really close to the frame no matter how many times i redo the adjustment. i have tried and tried to move it away. ohh and i know i cant sand out a dent . its probebly not an eight but a sixteenth of an inch.. i would show a pic but my phone take to high quality of pics to post and i have tried to reduce the size and kS but it still wont work | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Might be an isolator issue then. Unless the header is bent as well as dented. For your photos, I suggest you just use Paint to reduce the size of the image so you can post it up. I have to reduce photos from my camera about 80% so they will work here. I just use the stretch/skew function in paint and adjust both horiz and vert to the same percentage. takes 20 secs or so, then I save the image as a .2.jpg it it posts right up. Paint is nice, because it shows you how large the actual image is. I'm sure there's other software that works just as well but since the 'puter came with it, it's what I use. | ||
| 01x1buell |
The inside of the frame has a rub mark impression on it i hope its not to deep into the frame. It is not through the tube wall but it is a nice size rub mark. | ||
| Hootowl |
My stock header rubbed the frame, but only when the engine was running. Curiously enough, the frame was fine, the header took on some concavity. I half suspected this was due to adjustment of the engine isolator ties pulling the engine away from the right side of the bike, thus brining the exhaust into contact with the frame, but I replaced the stock pipe with a D&D and never thought about it again. Until today anyway... | ||
| Oldog |
check rear isolators replace if oe | ||
| 01x1buell |
How and what would i look for in checking the isolators | ||
| Preybird1 |
I would put a floor jack with a piece of 2x4 under it and jack it up a little. And watch the rear isolators. I bet they are worn out. | ||
| 01x1buell |
Sthe bike only has 10k on it.. I WOULDNT THINK THEY WOULD GO BAD ALREADY | ||
| Jramsey |
Its a 10 year old motorcycle,just like tires all rubber deteriorates with age. | ||
| Hootowl |
If you have the newer style isolators (01?) you should be fine. I've never heard of a set failing. They're pretty tough. | ||
| 01x1buell |
I think rhat i need to get the header lined up right im going to work on it later. I just hate to have a rub mark worn in the frame u cant see it but i know its there | ||
| Buellistic |
EXHAUST ASSEMBLY Class 101, just PM me for a copy ... | ||
| 01x1buell |
well i tried to adjust the header and now i have about 1 eight of an inch between the pipe and frame maybe a little bit less but it is not hitting anymore.. thanks for the guide buellistic... | ||
| 01x1buell |
what should the gap be between the rear header pipe and the frame????? what is it on your guys x1 s? | ||
| Jramsey |
My X1 the gap is a #7(.201) drill bit,the S3T a 5/32"(.156), this is with fresh Iso's that have less 2,000 miles. The X1 has never had frame/head pipe contact, the S3 has rubbed in its previous life. (Message edited by Jramsey on June 09, 2011) | ||
| 01x1buell |
hey james,, what year is your x1 i have an 01 just bought 2 months ago.. has 10300k on it. i put 2000k in past month and a half .. i heard that the iso's are much better on this year . | ||
| Jramsey |
"what year is your x1" Click on my profile. Iso's sag with age. With the bike resting on the side stand,stand on the right side holding the throttle grip with your right hand and put your left thumb or forefinger in the headpipe/frame junction then rock the bike up and down with the right hand, you will be able to feel some up and down movement. This is the Iso's "give"... old ones give/move more than fresh ones. The only way to git rid of this movement is Iso stiffeners. | ||
| 01x1buell |
ok i went and tested the iso's like you said and the movement e=was very minimum maybe 1\8 inch at most i hardly felt any movement just a little bit. | ||
| Jramsey |
"maybe 1\8 inch" Need more accurate fingers,never actually measured but but would guesstamate the new ones move about half that. | ||
| 01x1buell |
well maybe my iso,s are bad .. i guess i will look into it a little more. thank you |
