| Author | Message | ||
     02dmaxx |
Went for a ride yesterday and the bike just shut off. Fuses are good,it cranks,but won't start. Only thing I did different was add a gallon of Cam 2 to the tank.Any suggestions? Coil,ignition box,fuse I didn't see? Oil pressure switch? Gotta be something stupid. Thanks,Bill | ||
| Desertfox |
Check gasoline pressure. I put a gas additive in my tank just before it did basically the same thing. What had happened was the pressure regulator's seals had pretty much turned to plastic. If you turn the ignition on, let the pump prime up, then check the schrader valve for pressure, gas should spit out with a bit of force. | ||
| Jramsey |
S1's are carb'd no FI. Remove air cleaner and squirt a little gas in the carb, if it fires and dies its carb related if not then electrical. | ||
| Preybird1 |
I would spray some starting fluid and see if it will fire up. This will help narrow it down. | ||
| 02dmaxx |
Anyone think the "Cam 2" is the culprit? It's a 104 octane race fuel,why would it give me issues?I probably had a 1/2 gallon of 93 in the tank already. I don't get it. I'll pull a plug and see if she sparks. | ||
| 80rs427 |
Have you checked the side stand switch? If it is still hooked up try jumping the wires and see if it'll start. There is also a clutch lever switch you could check. | ||
| 02dmaxx |
I can't image It's a safety switch due to the fact it cranks over. | ||
| Desertfox |
Hahah, well, obviously I have alot to learn. I hope your S1 gets fixed up properly. | ||
| Cyclonecharlie |
Do as Jramsey suggests, before you spend hours looking in the wrong dept. A cold one sometimes helps.  | ||
| Cyclonecharlie |
Do as Jramsey suggests, before you spend hours looking in the wrong dept. A cold one sometimes helps. | ||
| Ratbuell |
1. try the starter fluid while cranking. 2. pop your fuel cap loose. You could have a stuck vent valve, causing a vacuum. 3. Cycle the petcock (I'll avoid the "turn the gas on dummy" for now) in case there is debris stuck in the valve. Run it from 'on', through 'off' to 'reserve', and back again, a couple of times to dislodge anything that may be stuck. 4. Pull the fuel line off where it goes into the carb, and see if you get fuel flow there. 5. put in a new battery. I know, sounds weird...but her M2L wouldn't start no matter what I did. Cranked over fine, lively, seemed fine...no start. New battery, she fired up first crank. | ||
| Cecil1 |
I had the same thing happen to me with my S1W. It ended up being the kill switch on the throttle control. I cycled it a half dozen times on and off and it started. I need to remember to replace the control this winter cause it still does it every now and then. | ||
| 02dmaxx |
Well I pulled the plugs,no spark. Checked for loose connections,found nothing. As I turned the key on for another try,I noticed the plugs would fire,but wouldn't fire while cranking. Let it sit for a few minutes,turn the key,same thing.Called my buddy at Horsepower,he said it sounds like the crank trigger. So I will try that and see what happens. | ||
| Road_thing |
My money's on the battery. rt | ||
| Midnight_rider |
check coil as per manual ... all you need is spark and fuel ... i say electrical as did jramsey !!!! | ||
| 02dmaxx |
Not so lucky. Noticed the rotor wasn't turning while cranking over.turns out ,for some reason,the woodruffs key sheard on the crank. Crank turns but cams don't.Fluke,or was the race fuel too "hot" and caused a valve to bend,or kiss a piston? Are there any manuals floating around to download? Thanks,Bill | ||
| Firemanjim |
Those flimsy rotors are known to break, been through 3 on my S-2's. Always carried a spare after the first time. Check it first. | ||
| Bigslug |
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/Manuals/S1_1 996-1997_Service/intro.pdf | ||
| Jos51700 |
Remove air cleaner and squirt a little gas in the carb In my opinion, I think this is halfway on the right track. I would check for fuel first, but I usually avoid the fire hazard by just snapping the throttle once or twice. If the accelerator pump works, and it's not shooting water, you'll know it. I usually check spark first. No tools req'd. | ||
| 02dmaxx |
Thanks for the manual Bigslug. | ||
| Hootowl |
Let us know what you found out about the pin shearing. Something seize? | ||
| 02dmaxx |
Everything rotates,I think the nut came loose and caused the pin to shear.Will know when I get it back together if it runs or not. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
American Sport Bike has a much more solid machined version of the timing cup. | ||
| 02dmaxx |
It's not the cup. It is the little key that keeps the pinion gear and oil pump drive gear on the pinion shaft(I think I refered to it as the crank shaft).In othe words,when I crank the engine over,the pistons are the only things moving,not the cams or the cup. | ||
| Road_thing |
Well, if that's all it is, it's not really a big deal. The real question is, "Why did it fail?" Is the key sheared off? Did the retaining nut back off? Will the oil pump turn over or is it jammed with something? You need to figure out what caused the problem before you try to start the motor again. rt | ||
| 02dmaxx |
The oil pump spins freely,by tightening the nut(before disassembly) the cams and everything else would spin freely. I believe the nut backed off and allowed the pinion gear to "hammer" on the key and eventually shear it. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Two words: Lock Tite. Check the manual, it should have the recommendation and color for you  | ||
| Road_thing |
Wow, that's one I haven't seen before. I'd recommend a compression check once you get it all back together, just to make sure your valves are OK. They could have touched the pistons while the mechanical timing was off. Is the boss on the inside of your timing cover OK? rt | ||
| 02dmaxx |
everything else LOOKS ok. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Road, I was thinking the same thing. |
