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Buell Forum » Old School Buell » Archive through September 14, 2010 » '99 X1 Isolator « Previous Next »

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Desertfox
Posted on Tuesday, August 31, 2010 - 12:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I recently noticed one of my rear isolators has a tear in it. I looked through the archives and found a nice procedure for 1998 and earlier bikes posted in 2006. Is the 1999 X1 about the same? Anything I should know about as far as newer parts or procedures?
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Buellistic
Posted on Tuesday, August 31, 2010 - 01:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Desertfox:

PM me so that "i" can get your e-mail address and "i" will send you ISOLATOR "INFO" Class 101 "ASAP" ...
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Tuesday, August 31, 2010 - 01:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

The rear isolators are crazy easy on X1 frames.

Remove hugger rear fender.
Unbolt rear tiebar that was under the rear fender.
Use a huge pipe and breaker bar to loosen the center bolts. Finding a 1/2" allen tool is a bit tricky.
Jack up the rear of the bike from above. I used my garage and a winch.
Remove the right footpeg plate thing with the fancy allen screws.

Remove the right isolator
shift the engine over to the right and remove the left side.

Reverse this dance for re-assembly and great justice!

Note: new isolators have a steel "ear" that interferes with the bottom of the plastic sprocket cover.
Use hacksaw on the plastic, not steel ear : )
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Hootowl
Posted on Tuesday, August 31, 2010 - 02:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

You may be able to find an isolator retrofit kit, which includes the new plastic drive sprocket cover, or just get one off a later model bike. Or replace it with something shiny : )
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Hootowl
Posted on Tuesday, August 31, 2010 - 02:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Also, in addition to the instructions above, I found that the frame was easier to push over when the front lower tie bar was also removed. The one by the oil filter.
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Desertfox
Posted on Tuesday, August 31, 2010 - 05:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Alright, sounds good. I just need to find a source for the isolators then.
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Hootowl
Posted on Tuesday, August 31, 2010 - 05:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/A17021.html
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Desertfox
Posted on Tuesday, August 31, 2010 - 05:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Woohoo! You guys rock. I'll put in an order ASAP.

Now all I need to do is find a way to hoist the rear up just enough to let me do this work. : D
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Tuesday, August 31, 2010 - 06:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Hoist the rear just enough to get the weight off.
You don't need to hang it.
I agree with the front tiebar observation too.

Personally, I took all of them off before I found the ONE I actually needed to take off in the rear.
In other words, the engine was just flopping around in the frame : )

The only touchy-fiddly bit is lining up the little roll pins with the holes.
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Hootowl
Posted on Wednesday, September 01, 2010 - 12:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

"Hoist the rear just enough to get the weight off. "

Aye, you don't want to actually lift the frame up off the motor/swingarm, you just want to take the weight off. You want the frame to stay exactly where it is in relation to the swingarm pivot. That'll make bolting it back together easier.
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