| Author | Message | ||
     Tbolt98 |
So I'm in the process of replacing my rear pads and rotor (98 S3) and all of the sudden I realize they are not identical!?!?!? The new they are same diameter and the bolt holes line up... but the one on the bike has countersunk holes for the resessed bolts, and the new one just has a flat lip! I'm hoping it is just off a newer model and I just need different bolts! Th new one is drilled instead of slotted and the kidney bean shaped holes are a little bigger but I don't think either are an issue. Anybody help me out here?  | ||
| Buellistic |
The one that uses hex head bolts is a PRODUCT IMPROVEMENT and much easier to take it apart ... | ||
| Tbolt98 |
Soo, the one on the right is an improvement!?!? because the one on it is not easy to get off (glad Craftsman tools have lifetime replacement)! If so, what model/year is it for so I can call and get the correct bolts for it? | ||
| Creature_x1 |
Go to the hardware store with the bolts you take out of the old rotor. Tell them you want the same length bolt in a grade 5 or grade 8 hex bolt. Viola!!! now you have the right bolts. It's also much cheaper than buying "the right bolts" from H-D. | ||
| Buellistic |
Take one of the old screws to a MOM & POP Hard Ware Store and get 4 grade 8 hex head bolts(and 4 flat washers) that are just short enough that they do not bottom out in the bolt holes ... Put anti-size compound on the bolt head to washer and threads ... Tighten the bolts in a cross pattern evenly to 11 ft.lbs., then 23 ft.lbs., finishing with 35 ft.lbs. ... Put anti-size compound on the rear axle washer and nut(33MM) threads torque'ing to 66 ft. lbs. ... DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN(torque) THE REAR AXLE NUT AS IT COMPRESS'es THE WHEEL BEARING SPACER CAUSE'ing THE WHEEL BEARING TO FAIL(applies to front axle nut also) !!! | ||
| Tbolt98 |
I went and got the suggests bolts and as I suspected the hex head bolts stick up too high and will not clear the caliper mount.... any other ideas? Can anyone say for sure that this is a Buell rotor? | ||
| Buellistic |
Can you grind(notch) the caliper mount to give the necessary bolt head/caliper mount clearance with out damaging the integrity of the caliper mount ??? | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Is that rotor a Buell part? Button head bolts are what I've read can/should be used for replacement, not sure if your new hardware is the same as that. How much clearance do you need? Many of us have had to file the back of the front caliper for easier (as in making it possible to remove) removal of the caliper. So removing a little material from the rear mount is probably not out of question. I know a lot of people are hating on HD, but we need them to stay afloat for the next seven to support our bikes. Maybe take your stock hardware, plus the new hardware into the dealer and see if they've got the rounded hex bolts and see how they compare. If they will work get them, the $6-10 they cost you won't end the world today. | ||
| Tbolt98 |
rather not notch the bracket, I slid the old one back in to check clearance and there is very little so I'm not sure if rounded bolts will even work. I rounded or broke many tools trying to get the stock allen bolts off (and only got two before rounding the holes) so I was hoping to avoid putting that type back in. I'm really starting to doubt this is even a Buell rotor. | ||
| Guell |
looks identical to the one on my 97 m2 | ||
| Jramsey |
Take the rotor to a machine shop and have the holes counter-sinked 82 degrees and use new flat head socket cap screws . If you were closer I'd do it for zip to get you going as it only takes about 10 seconds to do each hole. | ||
| Tbolt98 |
Brother is a machinist but unfortunately a couple hours away, looks like that's what I'll have to do though! I noticed American Sport Bike has the for $69... cheaper than I thought they were! Guell: are your bolt holes countersunk? what type of bolts are on it? | ||
| Kmbuell |
Drilled rotor is the EARLY part. Get the correct bolts from your dealer, or American Sport Bike. I'm pretty sure they were shouldered button heads with an AN washer under them. The rotor was slightly loose when the bolts were torqued correctly. What's wrong with the old rotor. It looks OK. A new rotor won't give you more stopping power if that's what you are looking for. Kevin | ||
| D_bag |
>>>>The one that uses hex head bolts is a PRODUCT IMPROVEMENT and much easier to take it apart... To the contrary!!! That Rotor is an earlier Brembo unit that used button head Torx screws that cleared the Brembo caliper bracket. It is not interchangeable unless modified to mount in the same manner as the Nissin rotor on the bike. | ||
| Tbolt98 |
should I drill the rotor so I can use the countersunk screws... or just order a new one? | ||
| Tbolt98 |
Think I've decided to just pick up a new rotor from American Sport Bike and sell the other one... anyone need it before It goes on ebay? Not looking for more stopping power.. my oil cap popped loose while riding last fall and glazed the rotor... thought about getting it honed but figure if it's off I'll just replace it. | ||
| Buellistic |
Tbolt, now that you told us the rest of the story, here goes ... Clean the rotor with brake cleaner ... If you have a 80 grit sanding disc and can spin it against rotor while it is being turned you can put a nice cross hatch on the pad surface on both sides ... You will need to get a new set of brake pads ... | ||
| Tbolt98 |
it is 13 years old so I'm sure a new one won't hurt, I'll mount up a freshy and get the old one fixed up for a spare! To be honest my lady is a little obsessive compulsive and would rather i put a new one on... so I stop going out on the 1125 and leaving her home  | ||
| Buellistic |
Tbolt98: Little more brake info for you ... Of course you know you have to brake in the new pads and new rotor ... For much better brake/brakes after you get the pads/rotor broke in: Take the brake off and ruff them up by rubbing the pads on your concrete drive way and do the cross hatching on the new rotor ... |
