| Author | Message | ||
     Kalali |
You guys made it sound so easy so I decided to replace my front ISO. Needless to say the FSM pretty much skips this job but I have read the procedures a couple of you guys posted or kindly sent me and still need the help. 1. Is it necessary to "hang" the bike from top before I start fiddling with the bolts? I can't see why I should. 2. I know I need to put a jack under the front of the engine/shock mount to lower the engine when removing the old ISO but do I need to raise the jack a little to get some weight off the bolts before I attempt loosening them? 3. Do I need to remove the center large bolt first before doing the two side bolts? 4. I started with the right side bolt since it is most accessible (without doing steps 1 or 2 above) by just trying to open the top bolt but it seems awfully tight for a 30# torque spec. Do just need to somehow "hold" the lower nut (which is awfully hard to get to) and put more muscle on the top bolt? I can't see how I could turn both the top bolt and the nut under from underneath. I havn't looked closely at the left bolt/nut since it looks like I need to get some of the wire looms out of the way but I'm sure same questions apply to the left bolt. Sorry about the long post but I am a shady tree mechanic at best and have plenty of time to get this done. Thanks in advance for your help. | ||
| Jramsey |
1. No it isn't required to hang the bike but a rear stand makes it steadier. 2. Yes just enough to take the weight off the Iso. 3. Not on the removal, but when re-installing it helps to center the new Iso. 4. Left side can be bear because of the harness,X1's are easier than S3's. Just pry the harness up till you get wrench room. The right side bolt of the tie bar has to be removed to gain access to the right Iso nut. A 9/16"-1/4" drive wobble socket with a 6" extension works well getting the right side if you have them. | ||
| Kalali |
Thanks a lot Jim. Heading out to the garage to give it a shot... | ||
| Kalali |
Alright, finally got the bolts off and removed the ISO. Glad I did. It had a huge gash about 3/4 way around the bolt insert and the D-washer had cut right into the plastic about 2mm deep mostly right up front. Put the new one in and hand tightened the bolts/nuts. Also checked all the exposed wiring harnesses and did some di-electric treatment on all connectors. Rest for tomorrow. I can already see getting the torque done correctly is going to be hell of a job. Will see. P.S. Got the 9/16"-1/4" drive wobble socket but the thing couldn't handle the load and snapped right up. Ended up using a 9/16" box end on the top bolt and a short 9/16" open end for the nut on the bottom for the right side. The left side was much easier once I got the wires out of the way. | ||
| Jramsey |
Oops my bad ,I assumed you knew to break loose with end and box wrenches then run the lock nut off and back on with the 1/4" and finish tightening with wrenches ...sorry  (Message edited by Jramsey on January 03, 2010) | ||
| Kalali |
Jim, it was my fault. I did break it loose with the box end but not loose enough. I also think I got the "wobble" thingy at a bad angle... | ||
| Kalali |
All buttoned up. The dealer had quoted me 2.5 hrs labor and it took me just about twice as long including lunch and a couple of beer breaks. And I acquired a few tools during the process. The only thing I noticed after it was all done is that the front edge of the D-washer is not 100% aligned straight and is just a tad turned to the left, roughly about 15 degrees or so. It must have turned while I was tighten the center bolt/nut. And why does the D-washer have a straight edge on the front and is not completely round? Please don't tell me it has to be redone... | ||
| Blackm2 |
I believe the D-washer is like that for clearance for the front part of the frame. As long as you got 100 ft/lbs of torque on it and it isn't rubbing anywhere you should be good. Oh yeah, as long as you have a good iso too! A new fix is on the way for those. | ||
| Kalali |
Thanks. May be they use the same design for other bikes but on an X1 there is plenty of space around the ISO for a round washer. In fact I would say that it is a poor design since the straight edge of the D-washer had cut a 1/4" groove into my old ISO causing enough drop to put stress on the head bolts. Now coming to think of it, in lieu of a round washer, it is probably better to rotate the washer and put the straight edge on the back. There is more "pull" down on the front of the ISO and a round surface distributes the load a lot better than a straight edge. Any thoughts? | ||
| Kmbuell |
Watch what happens to the back side of the frame neck when you use your brilliant move. Why do you think it's a "D" washer with a beveled edge? It was a flat "D" on the early S2's. The motor lifts on acceleration. Crack it hard enough, and it'll come up and smack the frame. Give the elves a bit o credit. They are not clueless. It's that way for a reason! Don't fix it, it aint broken, but your iso was. | ||
| Oldog |
Congrats on that job..  The FSM does a poor job documenting that task, Beer breaks are important..  JR has the weather improved any? I went up to M2nc's place and spent New years with Him, Uly-wife,Webie, Smiley. etc. Thursday Up was good, Saturday Back was 32F high for the day about 120 mi I was wondering how the TPS reset worked so far. | ||
| Jramsey |
Jim the weather sucks, single digits at night teens during the day, this Fri. night supposed to be 9 below zero. 6" of more snow yesterday. Furnace shot craps Christmas evening while talking to you on the phone(thanks again for the Ecmspy tutorial ) No heat in the house from Friday till Monday evening, replaced heat and air both. Sucked sleeping in the shop on an air mattress but at least we we're warm. Extended forecast say's more snow Wednesday and the daytime highs around 15-20 for the next 2 weeks so no riding in the immediate future. Moshen sorry for the threadjack, gettin' cabin fever. James | ||
| Kalali |
Km, trust me, I give the elves a lot more than a bit if credit for designing an awesome bike like this. But as we all know sometimes the bean counters win over the engineers. The "curved" shape of the D-washer makes a lot of sense since it adds load carrying strength so changing over from a flat washer is clearly understood. Its the design purpose behind the "straight" edge that has got me curious specially since it had cut a deep recess into the ISO. So you say it is there because the engine lifts upon acceleration and the straight edge allows for a little "rotation" when that happens and forces the washer to cut into the rubber (as witnessed by the recess in the old ISO)). If this is true, then I do need to get the washer 100% aligned otherwise the movement will be restricted. Makes sense? | ||
| Kmbuell |
Yes, that is correct. The flat must go forward, and be aligned to be straight across. When the iso starts going south is when the cut starts. Hopefully there is a new answer on the way. We've been promised one anyway. My S2 had a pretty good ding in the back of the neck when I changed over to the tapered D-washer. I get owley about picking on Buell engineers when I know they busted their asses to make things right for us. The early S2's were made before most of the HD bean counting intervention, they recoginzed an issue and fixed it. Kevin | ||
| Oldog |
No heat in the house from Friday till Monday evening, replaced heat and air both. OUCH! We got your earlier weather, We can ride but not pleasantly..} | ||
| Fullauto |
I went for a ride on Sunday. It was only 45 degrees here.............celsius. That's somewhere north of 110F. | ||
| Kalali |
OK, I promise my last post on the subject but please explain: "...My S2 had a pretty good ding in the back of the neck when I changed over to the tapered D-washer..." Do you a mean ding in the ISO rubber or on the neck frame? And by tapered you mean one with a straight edge or a curved D-washer? OK, I'm done. |
