| Author | Message | ||
     Cyc02 |
With the demise of our Parent Company, it is easy to lament the situation and not move forward. Erik would want us to ride to the full! In light of that..... I've bought an M2 Frame, Tank, Tail and Wheels, and I'm going to build a racer over the next few years..... Has anyone done this as well? (I mean - Bought a "non-clear-title" frame and started building?) We are lucky to have an (former) International Raceway near our town that i believe can be booked for weekend BLATS! Any wisdom from those that have been there and done that would be greatly appreciated!  (Message edited by Cyc02 on November 29, 2009) | ||
| Jayvee |
Well, you started out with the right color! A good foundation is important... | ||
| Eboos |
Ask me any questions that you may have. I didn't start the way you are starting, but I have been racing my M2 for the past 3 years, and have a lot of development work into it. | ||
| Benm2 |
Cut off those passenger peg mounts right away. If its going to be strict race, then take the kickstand mount with it. It will allow for narrower rearsets. If you're brave and have access to a good welder, cut off the rear subframe & refit the bike for an S1 seat section. Get the small tank. I ran into issues with dragging my toes on the ground. When I wanted to go with rearsets, they were initially wider than stock, so it didn't make things much better. Plus my heels starting interfering with the plastic on the seat lower plastic. I ultimately went to bolt on pegs (no hinges) and narrowed up the set over an inch per side. The S1 tail section was a huge improvement too, and the small tank gives more flop-around room. Replace the bushings on your shifter with bronze ones. If you've got a lathe you can make them from McMaster Carr parts. If you don't, buy them from American Sport Bike. Your chain will grind into your swingarm & into the rear motor mount. You can fab stuff up to protect it, but it will rub, especially on the top. If you run a big enough front sprocket to prevent the rub, the rear sprocket gets big. You will need to run LOTS of chain slack; the geometry of the bike causes a big swing in effective center-to-center length as the swingarm covers its travels. There is race front shock mount available, I highly recommend it. It lifts up the back of the bike about an inch. I made my own, but its heavier than the "real" race one. Note that this setup makes the chain look REALLY slack when the bike is unweighted on the rear stand. If you're a geek, remove your rear brake disc and drill it out. I also had mine blanchard ground to minimum thickness. I took off over a pound of sprung weight, and it made me exactly NO faster. Check your exhaust nuts before every track day. I've lost several. Many lighter batteries are available. The YTX11 is a nice choice, its a bit lighter and if its in good shape it will reliably start the bike. I've seen people with a YTX7, but it needs to be in perfect working order to start the bike. Those were the biggest issues I ran into for a trackbike, but Eric actually raced his, so take my input with a grain of salt. Outside of that, I'd try to get X1 forks & triples, they're bettter than the M2 forks. I think the XB forks are better still but I don't know how much work it is making them fit. The XB rear wheel conversion will get you a rim more compatible with modern 180-series tires. You can stretch a 180 across the stock wheel, but if you're starting from scratch... Start your hunt for a bellypan now. I don't know if you can still get them. It will crack, alot. | ||
| Richsm2 |
you will find the pan here: /www.airtech-streamlining.com/buell/universalbuell. htm | ||
| V74 |
hi benm2, very interesting reading, i have a 99M2 and put a AST rear shock on it,(great shock)my belt rubs exactly where you said a chain would,i also get a vibration from the right side foot peg when two up at about 4000rpm when going over smooth roads with the ripple of the join in the section of the road is,when the suspension unloads,i wandered if the belt rubbing and the vibration are connected as it feels a bit like the belt rubbing?someone on here said could be a rear isolator on the way out but why the vibration only in these circumstances,the vibration diminishes(but not completely go,s)when i tighten up the belt,but this will cause other problems so is not an answer to the problem??? | ||
| Eboos |
Please everyone thank Benm2. He has been doing this longer then I have, and without collaboration, almost everything that he has mentioned I have done with my bike. Some key points: cut off those passenger peg mounts and mount some rearsets tight against the frame with bolt through pegs. Get the 3 gallon tank (S1 and early M2). Finally, either get the race front shock mount (only made for the longer style rear shock, and hard to find), or modify your existing front shock mount to relocate the mounting hole 1/2" forward. Do not go further then 1/2" because you will quickly reach the swingarm's topout limit. | ||
| Jayvee |
Hey that same picture is on eBay right now. Did you change your mind, or did somebody steal a picture? Anyway, if you're racing, get an X1 engine, or at least the cams, not the M2 cams. I'm sure you know the X1 forks and cams are better for racing. But I guess the subframe from the S1/M2 is lighter. The best setup would be to cutoff the seat subframe and weld some tabs on to bolt on your own-made aluminum subframe. Also add the fourth tie-bar from engine to the frame, like the X1 has. It was omitted from the M2. This should add to chassis rigidity a smidgen. (Message edited by jayvee on December 04, 2009) | ||
| Richsm2 |
why are the x1 forks better? m2 fully adjustable, just guessing -lighter and at 43mm not weak. just saying if someone has them and to start off? | ||
| Eboos |
Inverted forks have less unsprung weight, and the M2 forks don't have compression damping adjusters. That being said, I use the M2 forks, resprung, revalved and setup by GMD Computrack Boston. Whatever forks you get, get them valved correctly, and don't do the whole 'I'll just use a heavier oil to increase damping' crap. Spend the money and get the suspension setup properly. | ||
| Littlebuggles |
I've got a new belly pan with mounting hardware I've been waiting for someone to come along and buy. | ||
| Eboos |
How much do you want for it? I seem to go through belly pans a little too quickly. | ||
| Jrobm2 |
I have a set of 00 M2 I recently took off and replaced with showa (x1) front end courtesy of brinnutz. | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Going from the ground up, or frame up I suppose, you could just build it with the lighter XB front end and wheels. That would also get you the slick perimeter brake and could get the newest generation of the ZTL caliper as well for killer brake performance. Just get a complete XB*R front end with triples for the lower bars. Doesn't Hal's sell rear wheel spacers to make retrofitting XB wheels on a tube frame just a bolt up affair? I found my stock (M2) motor good and suspension lacking on my first track day, and wished for a bit more performance when I became more comfortable on the track my second outing. Consider hopping up a engine like Preybird1 did with his 1250 kit and tuning for really good performance. If I recall correctly he posted a dyno read out of 112 horses from the tuner. Sorry about the thread jack earlier. Erik, I pm'd you. Belly pan is not necessary for general track days, but for certain race series may be a requirement. -Mike | ||
| Benm2 |
Erik, sorry for misspelling your name. Rear shock - I rebuilt mine with RaceTech stuff and put a custom spring on it. I also ran out of money right then, so I've no mileage on it. Not really comfortable recommending that course of action, but it IS possible AND cheaper than a Penske or Works. Motor - M2 motor is weak by itself. You'll get Busa-parked ALOT as you progress as a rider, if you're not already. Changing to an aftermarket muffler, a race intake can, a rejet, and X1 cams will make a BIG difference. Beyond that, break out the wallet. I've got about 94RWHP now so I'm a bit less of a rolling obstacle on the straights. The bike has enough torque to keep things pretty even between corners. I did the motor work myself, but still spent on new gaskets and valve grinding. I use Ferodo CP911 brake pads up front, I still have stock pads in the back (the bikes originals). I think I used the rear brake once during an off-track excursion, other than that I never touch it. Front Brake Stories - KEEP IT BLED WITH FRESH FLUID, AND USE A GOOD HIGH-QUALITY RACE FLUID. I replace mine (F/R) every spring & rebleed. I had the fluid boil in the caliper once at Pocono 3 or 4 years ago, was coming into a 50 mph corner at about 75 and pulled the lever to the bar. The fluid had boiled, so all I was doing was compressing steam, so no front brakes. Went off, rode it out, and used the rear brake to slow down. Probably less of an issue with the XB brakes/front end, but still probably a good idea. I also use Mobil1 synthetic oil for the engine, and Amsoil synthetic for the gearcase. There's plenty of opinions on who's synthetic is best, but they're all likely better than conventional. The bike WILL get hot. | ||
| Eboos |
LOL, ain't that the truth. That is especially frustrating if you aren't very good at close passes. Proper gearing can help you make the most of the limited RPM range. You will need to make this a chain driven bike if you want to be able to change your final drive ratios. | ||
| Jake318 |
CYCL we are starting new buell race team also dispite demise ( xb12R with big bore kit engine) But I we are running a 2001 also in stock class for seat time . What slipper cltch are you running ? thanks Jake | ||
| Eboos |
Slipper clutches??? We don't need no stinkin slipper clutches. | ||
| Eboos |
I just broke down and put a deal together and will finally be getting a set of inverted Showas for my bike. Please everyone welcome me into the 21st century. | ||
| Jake318 |
Eboos whats next a cell phone? whats gotten into you lol. | ||
| Eboos |
Hell no. No cell phone. | ||
| Eboos |
Jake, what series are you racing in? Heading up to NHMS at all? |
