| Author | Message | ||
     Thejuicer |
Went to the garage and started the old girl today, click click click then started...battery is only a few months old. Rode for a ways and came back home, couldnt hardly get it started again. It just kept clickin i bet i hit the start button 5 or 6 times to get it goin again....any ideas...dead starter??? (Message edited by thejuicer on November 15, 2009) | ||
| Fasted |
loose and or corroded connections: battery posts solenoid power wire ground strap | ||
| Thejuicer |
Battery posts are clean and tight same with the ground strap and sol. power wire...anything else it could be??? | ||
| Fasted |
even a "new" battery can go bad prematurely. can you test it yourself? or have any moto repair shop check it for you | ||
| Badsix2 |
my 96 s1 has the same problem i have installed a solenoid kit, new batt, new relays checked all wires and i still have the dam click click click | ||
| Oldironsides |
Must be that time of the year my 01 X1 is doin the same thing. I even keep it on a battery tender. It'll click like they battery is low and then it takes it more turns than normal to fire. Like the starter is dragging. Or not getting the right current to it. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Make sure that your battery isn't being murdered by a sick charging system! Get it running and measure the voltage on the battery. It should be 13.5-14.5 or therabouts. | ||
| Nukeblue |
had the same exact problem. removed the starter & opened it up. found corrosion on the brushes and stuff. cleaned it up and it worked like new. the starter is very expensive from the dealer. i put a little rtv where the starter bodies come together. | ||
| Rick_a |
The solenoid contacts can also be cleaned. If they are rough some 300 grit sandpaper can fix 'em up. Put a voltmeter on the battery contacts as you turn the bike over. If it goes below ten volts after about five seconds the battery is no good. Buy a good AGM battery. The H-D battery and a few H-D specific aftermarket batteries work well. The auto store brand batteries tend to break internally fairly quickly as they're not built to withstand the vibration. It wouldn't hurt to also check the stator for a/c output and continuity while you are at it. | ||
| 5liter |
Voltage drop test from the NEG post to the swing arm block. Anything more that 1 volt is bad. I found my problem under the ground strap. A piece of frame paint wasn't letting it ground. Once I corrected that, it spun over like new. | ||
| Thejuicer |
I'm gunna go though everything this week-end, thanks for all the input....Josh. | ||
| Fasted |
i believe the draw test is done with the ground DISCONNECTED from the battery, with the meter inline to ground (positive lead to battery post, and negative lead to bare metal on frame).....correct me if i'm wrong.............. | ||
| Harold |
I have had the same problem, and even tried using 2 good batteries hooked together, so I knew it wasn't that. I cleaned everything except what Nukeblue said with the inside of starter. Since mine is 11 years old, I think that has a good chance of being the problem. | ||
| Hootowl |
Could also be the ignition switch. The current for the solenoid passes through it, and if the contacts are fried, it'll cause enough resistance to lower the current available to the solenoid windings which will cause it to not have enough oomph to hit the starter contacts at the end of its travel. There's a spring there at the end it has to overcome. Yes, the solenoid current goes through the starter relay, but it also goes through the ignition switch. You can test the battery/solenoid contacts by removing the solenoid cover and pushing the solenoid in manually. If the engine turns over, your starter/solenoid and battery are probably OK. |
