| Author |
Message |
    
Littlebuggles
| | Posted on Friday, November 13, 2009 - 06:42 pm: | 
|
S1 manual from the KV:
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/Manuals/S1_1 996-1997_Service/intro.pdf
This should get you by, print the pages you need for specific projects... Bases on my bike are not magnetic.
Any luck yet? |
The4ork
| | Posted on Saturday, November 14, 2009 - 03:49 am: |
|
no luck yet... gonna go buy a siphon pump tomorrow and suck the oil out of the case to see if i can find it |
The4ork
| | Posted on Sunday, November 15, 2009 - 01:19 am: |
|
I GOT IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!! got the jugs on too... gonna tackle some more tomorrow, should get the heads on and torqed, motor mount adapter, rocker boxes.
i need a new intake manifold tho before i can go any further after that... anyone got a spare laying around on the west coast? i have paypal, overnight that isht! :P |
The4ork
| | Posted on Sunday, November 15, 2009 - 03:11 am: |
|
 |
The4ork
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 17, 2009 - 03:51 am: |
|
got busy with the doctor, plus dmv, and the girlfriend today... no progress made.
last night i got the front head and engine mount in, not torqued but snug.
tomorrow i have to drop the rear head off at the machine shop to get a scratch that goes through the fire ring blended. its pretty deep and didnt notice it till i cleaned the head real nice before i was about to put it on.
getting up on ebay right now to try and find a new intake manifold. i broke mine trying to remove it  |
Tattoodnscrewd
| | Posted on Thursday, November 19, 2009 - 02:04 pm: |
|
Curious, how many miles are on that motor ?
With some of the issues that you have run into from the PO, I would be a little cautious of slapping it all together without making sure your crank is good. Considering it's a 96, and it's a tapered crank pin on that crank - that crank might have a total life of 20-30k miles before you need to rebuild the bottom end, and with more power that lifespan will shorten. That is what happened to me.
Would hate to see you bolt the thing up and a month down the road have your crank start to give you issues.
That is/was the problem using the XL1200 Sporty lump as a base for these, Erik and the elves got very impressive performance out of them but at a cost - which is why starting with the X1 in 2001 I believe the crank was updated to a lighter, stronger crank with a straight crank pin (more reliable) and yet further with improvements to the XB's. The X1 crank can be used in your case but you will need to have a bearing race machined off for clearance.
Just food for thought. If that is the original crank, I wouldn't count on it lasting long with a higher performance top end.
In regards to pistons - IT IS SAFE to run XB9 pistons on pump gas, they will yield a higher compression (ie.. more power) but you will NEED to have an adjustable curve ignition module to be able to have the advance set just right to avoid pinging and detonation. Still leaves you room to run race gas without a problem, just switch the ignition module to the most advanced and you're there...bottom line - with an adjustable curve ignition module, you CAN SAFELY run XB9 pistons (info attained from VERY reliable sources - a Buell racer and tech at Hal's, former race bike builder for Hal's, and one of the elves in East Troy)
Done properly you can easily achieve over 100whp reliably (thats hp to the wheel btw). (There are a couple threads about it when I did my bike a couple years ago, including dyno charts - lots of discussion went on when I did it, also threads from others who have done this as well, lots of info - just dig back a couple years)
(Message edited by tattoodnscrewd on November 19, 2009) |
The4ork
| | Posted on Thursday, November 19, 2009 - 11:27 pm: |
|
well i got the thing running tonight, with a few issues... feels like a complete lack of power and an odd vibration. other than that it runs ok just driving around normal...
took it back to the garage for inspection and noticed a sizzling noise... turns out fuel is pouring out of my filter onto the header...
only thing i changed @ the carb was that vac nipple in the back side of the carb behind the fuel feed line... i plugged it with a vac nipple...
before there was a line on it that went to nothing... could be the problem? dont know. when it cools off i'll remove the nipple and try again.
i hope the crank isnt giving me trouble and i definately hope i did something wrong. i tried following tech data pretty well with the head torque sequence that came with the cometic kit....
there are a few things im worried about, maybe i have a pushrod in the wrong spot? (what would that do, if the intake/exhaust are switched around on one cyl?)
the other thing im worried about is after i torqued the head down i noticed the cometic instructions says to remove the brass rivet in the head gasket for some aftermarket heads it causes clearance issues. i can see one of the brass rivets sticking out and not touching anything but cant remember if there was more than one?
the last thing im worried about is i had to have two and a half thousands shaved off of one head to remove a scratch in the sealing surface... could this becausing too much of a compression difference issue causing my vibration and lack of power? but im pretty sure there is somethign up with the carb causing that... hopefully
oh and lastly, im worried because i didnt "clay" the engine... i just simply put it in gear and pushed it up and down the driveway with the spark plugs out to check to see if it would turn over easily without valves hitting the pistons... seemed normal....
i wish it was running right so i can have my mind at ease |
V74
| | Posted on Friday, November 20, 2009 - 06:58 am: |
|
cant understand why you didn't check pushrods before installing and if you altered one head by machining off some you should have done the same to the other head so they match ???
strip it down and start again,if for nothing else but peace of mind,check twice bolt up once,never used those gaskets,only oem ones,so cant comment on them, |
The4ork
| | Posted on Friday, November 20, 2009 - 08:07 pm: |
|
i pulled the valve covers off and double checked the pushrods, for some reason in my head i had it pictured funny...
the engine runs great now, the only problem im having is a problem with the carb... (see other post) |
Oldog
| | Posted on Saturday, November 21, 2009 - 01:11 am: |
|
I started to jump in but you have it under control, if you had put the rods in the wrong place one of the 2 valves may have bent and would not have allowed the valve to seat, possibly
unless you changed the rocker arms cams or cut quite a bit of metal from the head its OK, Claying is done on high lift cams
if you did not change them no an issue.
.006" cut on the head for clean up also no issue. |
|
