| Author | Message | ||
     Eshardball |
I was out riding my S3 the other day and the front brake started dragging.the PO stated that he had replaced the front brake pads and rotor even though the bike only had 11K on it. I found similar posts in the KV but it was on an XB using the wrong front lever. The MC calls for DOT 4 and I'm wondering if the HD tech put the wrong fluid in and thats what is causing it.The fluid has no tint of purple in the sight glass. The rotor is now Blueish grey but does not appear to be warped and the brake feels OK, (no pulsing.) I'm just concerned that this will happen again if I don't find and repair the cause. I was doing almost 60 when the brake applied itself but it was gradual and then released. I think I'm liking my S1 more each day | ||
| Oldog |
es, when the PO changed the pads did he clean the pistons? shoe string and brake clean, on extended pistons My 0.02$ over haul the caliper, and change the fluid fresh pads not a bad idea either. any time the pads are changed, extend and clean the pistons then install the pads | ||
| Sleez |
+1 oldog! | ||
| Hootowl |
That happened to me once too. I never discovered the reason. A small piece of grit in the master cylinder could have caused it to not bleed off pressure, similar to what happens with the wrong brake lever story you describe above, but like I said, it is still a mystery to me. I disassembled the entire system to clean it, but all the fluid was nice and clear, and there was no grit anywhere. No clue. | ||
| Buellistic |
BUELLers: The way to CURE YOUR "BRAKE PROBLEMS" before they occur is to change the master cylinder fluid ever 6 months ... THIS ALSO APPLIES TO YOUR motor scooter, CAR, PU TRUCK, metric bike if you have one, AND MOTOR HOME if you have one !!! Have a 107,444.7 miles as of the last ride on my 1997 S3T and have never had any of these mystery brake problems !!! MAY THE LONG LASTING BUELL BE WITH YOU !!! | ||
| Twowheeldream |
Just a thought, but if you replace the pads without taking the cover off of the master cylinder pressure will build in the reservior when you force the pistons back in the caliper to fit the new thicker pads over the disk. Be carefull because if more fluid was added to the master cylinder whith the worn pads it may overfill when you take the cover off... be ready with a rag or towel just in case | ||
| Eshardball |
Good point since it is not a vented MC like on a car, but he pads were replaced by the PO at the HD dealer. I am going to follow OD's advice and clean the pistons and do a fluid change. The existing pads have just over 1k miles on them and seem to stop OK after several hard stops to get them seated or broken in. When I got the bike a couple months ago the front brake made a lot of vibration which went away after having to slow from 85 down to 45 in not much distance during rush hour traffic. | ||
| Buellistic |
BUELLers: When you replace your brake pads class 101: 1) Get your master cylinder level ... 2) With a IMPROVISED SPECIAL TOOL, suck the brake fluid out of the master cylinder ... 3) With a LENT FREE RAG(old white tee-shirt), wipe out sediment in master cylinder ... 4) Put cover back on master cylinder ... 5) Compress caliper pistons in ... 6) Install new brake pads ... 7) Remove master cylinder cover and add proper numbered brake fluid to correct level ... 8) Replace master cylinder cover and pump brake lever(must have ROTOR in caliper) ... 9) Top off master cylinder ... MAY THE LONG LASTING BUELL BE WITH YOU !!! | ||
| Sleez |
forgot step 4A) clean perimeter of piston before compressing. | ||
| Eshardball |
Buellistic, not to question your sucess but that would leave old brake fluid in the line and the caliper. I am a big fan of draining everything so that I flush any crap that may have accumulated in the caliper out as well. | ||
| Buellistic |
Eshardball: "i" understand you position on draining and flushing the brake system ... On a motorcycle brake system, there is not much fluid in it ... Hard riding, as most of us do causes the brake fluid to get "HOT", which kills the additives in the fluid allowing condensation(water) to occur in the system ... This is what cruds up the caliper pistons which causes them to not to collapse a little to release the pads ... Here is a little hint for you: You know the anti-rattle compound used on brake pads ... Well, if you smear some on the caliper pistons and compress you caliper/pads and allow the compound to dry it will help pull your pads away from the rotor when you release you brake ... Over time you get a lot of rust(crud) in the caliper piston area which raises it's ugly head when you replace the pads ... When you drain, clean, and re-fill just the master cylinder every 6 months the anti-condensation additives are replenish to where you do not have to drain and flush the system ,,, This also applies to your 4 wheel vehicles ... MAY THE LONG LASTING BUELL BE WITH YOU !!! | ||
| Tyronewildman |
Yep, my 02 S3T has about 40k mi & had changed fluid & cleaned pistons regular. Found 4 of the 6 pistons stuck tite. Disassembled/cleaned & like new front brake now. | ||
| Eshardball |
Nice tip. Almost like a liquid dust seal. Does it have that much elasticity to not tear when the pistons extend? |
