| Author | Message | ||
     Dtmcnamara |
Pulling the motor to the 99 x1 and am trying to gather a list of everything to get to replace. Here is what I have so far Spark plugs wires bearings oil pump complete gasket/seals kit belt ignition exhaust gasket anything else i should look over to replace? would MUCH rather do it all at once than overlook something and have to pull something apart once again. THANKS in advance | ||
| Ratbuell |
Intake gaskets Lifters/tappets oil pump drive gear updated primary tensioner shoe disassemble the clutch and replace the spring plate with 2 steels and a friction (or is that two frictions and a steel?) Just out of curiosity, why replace the ignition? Also, make sure NONE of your new gaskets are paper. They should all be steel or steel-core with a coating...or rubber in certain places. | ||
| Spiderman |
Don't replace the whole oil pump, just buy new gearotors and a new drive shaft. Inspect the gearotors they may not need to be replaced, however I recomend replacing the drive gear... | ||
| Dtmcnamara |
replacing the ignition to a dyna 2000 because i am doing the 1250 kit and some other little things (Message edited by dtmcnamara on August 23, 2007) | ||
| Ratbuell |
Ah. That'd fall under the "upgrade" category, got it ;) | ||
| Dtmcnamara |
ya sorry, upgrading the ignition, and the heads, and the exhaust and intake...ect | ||
| Ryker77 |
check out www.swaintech.com You can get most of your engine parts coated for either heat control or low friction. Help keep that air-cooled bike cool. A 1250 kit with a larger cam and higher compression will be a good bit warmer than a stock. Some coatings in the correct area might allow for the use of higher compression without the need for race gase or pinging issues. | ||
| Firemanjim |
They need to update their advertising claims as the Fueling streamliner is not the worlds fastest motorcycle anymore and the claimed fastest streetbike has to be the Hayabusa of Rich Yancy, the Bud bike has been 260. | ||
| Dtmcnamara |
i will be working with a local company called cryogen to do all my ceramic coating and working with another member from the boards for some porting and polishing. what all should be coated? i was just going to do the header and then add a oil cooler and the upgraded oil tank, i think it adds 1-2 more quarts. should stay a little cooler. that with a forcewinder the d n d exhaust and some tuning should run alright. | ||
| Jayvee |
Here's the blurb from RS Performance Coatings, in Menlo Park, CA (SF Bay area): We also do Micro Slick coatings on piston skirts, bearing surfaces, almost anywhere friction could be a problem. We first used this type of coating back in the late 1960’s for parts on tanks that were not easily greased. We also do a heat barrier coating on the tops of pistons, which reflects the heat and spent gases back to the head and out of the exhaust valves. Yes we do coat the valve faces also. Pricing on request, but one piston with both coatings is around $48.00 each. You could also coat the aluminum oil tank with something comparable to their "heat dissipating" coating: HEAT REDUCTION COATING WOW! A COATING THAT CAN REDUCE YOUR ENGINE TEMPERATURE 15 TO 18 DEGREES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Our BLACK Heat Dissipation coatings will help to transfer heat at a faster rate, reducing operating temperatures. Test have shown that radiators made of aluminum transfer heat 60% faster when coated with our black. Brass / copper components transfer heat 40% faster and steel components transfer heat 65% faster than un-coated parts. Oil coolers, transmission coolers, brake systems, condensers, gear box cases, as well as radiators all have shown an increase in performance and a reduction of operating temperatures with this black. (Message edited by jayvee on August 24, 2007) | ||
| Dtmcnamara |
humm interesting. I may talk to my local guys and see if they have anything like this, and if they dont i will keep RS in mind. THANKS | ||
| Ryker77 |
It's good your thinking about it now. Becuase once you put it together - it gets harder to have valves, piston, cylinder domes, etc etc coated. How much compression will you be running? How hard will you ride the bike? How many miles will you put on the bike? Then use that with the $$$$ factor to see what you want to coat. "heat dissipating" coating on the outside of the heads, covers, cylinders, and oil cooler?. low friction on the piston skirts heat barrier coating on the tops of pistons, which reflects the heat and spent gases back to the head and out of the exhaust valves and if you like alot of RPMS have the valve springs coated. (Message edited by ryker77 on August 24, 2007) | ||
| Dtmcnamara |
compression will be 10.5;1 and miles will be around 100-300 a week (Message edited by dtmcnamara on August 24, 2007) | ||
| Bad_karma |
David Roller rockers and make sure you get good upgraded lifters and push rods. Also upgraded Tappet blocks and the required push rod tubes. Joe | ||
| Dtmcnamara |
damn, the list just gets longer and longer. lol i may either have to wait on some things or just take even longer to build this | ||
| Bad_karma |
David Been rideless since december. Do the big stuff, leave the external, rocker box upgrades for weekend upgrades. Ride. Joe |
