| Author | Message | ||
     Nocompromise |
Here is the quick and dirty: I'm in the USAF, and I got spoiled by living/riding in Northern CA (beautiful weather, great twisties, racetracks everywhere, etc...). When I moved to MS, I stopped riding because the roads were crap. Well, I made it back to CA and I want to get started again, but my 97 S1 has been sitting for 4 years... I know - don't yell at me!! I can hear the gasps of outrage. I drained the fuel, put in new gas and tried to charge the battery with a trickle charger. The engine won't turn over, so I'm guessing the battery is dead. Anyone else have any tips or advice to get it up and running again and general thoughts on bringing a Buell out of long-term hibernation? I definitely need new tires (damaged in the moves), and an oil change I'm guessing? I'd prefer not to turn it over to a dealer because of the cost, but I'm wondering if that would be the best option. Any help is greatly appreciated!! I used to frequent these forums years ago - glad to see that they're still alive and well! | ||
| Stevem123 |
Don't forget to change the primary fluid and the fork oil also! Yes the battery is probably toast. It may also need the carburator cleaned because the fuel left in there (even just a tiny bit) will have become gunk and have all the inner workings stuck like glue. Lastly, squirt some oil down into the cylinders through the sparkplug holes before you turn it over. Those cylinders will be very dry by now and could possibly even be pitted by condensation over the years of sitting. Turn it over by hand a few times with the sparkplugs out using the rear tire in high gear before trying it with the starter. Hope you get it going! Be careful till you get some saddle time since you've been away for a while. BC Steve | ||
| Eshardball |
New Battery is first off. Next concern would be the seals leaking after such a long period of inactivity. Spray oil into the cylinders and pull the motor through several cycles with the plugs out.You do not want to crack a ring that was rusted to the cylinder wall. If it doesn't start pissing oil after warming up, run it up to operating temp for a while and drain the oil out of motor, trans, & primary along with all the condensation that will have occurred. Check the oil in primary regularly as the crank seals are known to leak and the first sign is a rising oil level in the primary case. Tires should be considered toast also. Look for dry rot on the belt and oil lines. If it is questionable, change it now. Much better in a comfortable garage than in some improvised location. Lube all cables. If you need advice consult the knowledge vault. There is so much good advice on Badweb you should be able to handle these items yourself with a modecum of mechanical ability. The dealer won't care about it as much as you do and half of them don't know squat about Buells. | ||
| Eshardball |
Steve, good point about the fork oil. The same would go for brake fluid. You must have posted while I was still writing. | ||
| Iamike |
A buddy of mine parked his '76 Electra-Glide in the barn and forgot about it. Ten years later he decided to get it out. Changed the oil, replaced the battery, filled the gas tank and lo & behold it started and ran. Surprised me too. Sometimes I wonder if all this winterization stuff is overblown. | ||
| Firemanjim |
Noco,let me know if you need anything as you are apparently now my neighbor--I am in Vaca also. Check out Progigy in Vaca,they can get nearly anything.Stay away from Vaca HD. Or go to Tom's on Union. (Message edited by firemanjim on May 22, 2007) | ||
| Nocompromise |
Thanks for the advice guys! I'll keep you appraised of my progress. I should be able to handle it on my own. I'm not very mechanically inclined, but I've managed to work on my S1 in the past (rejet carb, install rearsets, install braided steel brake lines, etc...). I'll give it a go, and if I get in over my head I guess I'll have to resort to a dealer. Thanks for the offer Firemanjim! Is Progigy good for service also? I've only taken my Buell to Vallejo HD in the past since there was no Buell dealer in Vacaville. | ||
| Nocompromise |
I've made some good progress towards getting her running again. I have a couple quick questions: 1. What size Torx bit do I need for the clutch inspection cover? I would like to change the transmission fluid. The T25 I have is too small (hopefully didn't strip out the bolts too bad) and the T30 is too big. 2. What do I use to spray/squirt oil into the cylinders through the spark plug holes? Thanks in advance! | ||
| Tattoodnscrewd |
1. What size Torx bit do I need for the clutch inspection cover? I would like to change the transmission fluid. The T25 I have is too small (hopefully didn't strip out the bolts too bad) and the T30 is too big. 2. What do I use to spray/squirt oil into the cylinders through the spark plug holes? Answer -> 1. T27.5 2. Easiest is to go grab a turkey baster from the kitchen (big oversized eye dropper) | ||
| Nocompromise |
Thanks for the quick answer Tattood! Any tips on the best place to hunt down the T27.5 or spare bolts (if I stripped mine too badly)? I normally get Craftsman tools, but there are Auto Parts stores closer to me. | ||
| Tattoodnscrewd |
Probably be able to pick up the torx bit at either .. Just grab the bolts from the dealer .. not a Buell specific part so they 'should' have them in stock ... | ||
| Firemanjim |
Vallejo Buell is good. Most service you can do yourself. Sears has good selection of Torx bits. | ||
| Nocompromise |
Thanks for the info again fellas. Firemanjim, I tried going to Tom's, but I've only used HD fluids in the past so I figured I would stick with them. Not much selection there. What problems have you had with Vacaville HD? Yeah, I've had good luck with Vallejo in the past, but their prices (like any HD dealership I imagine) are quite high. | ||
| Firemanjim |
Any decent synthetic will do,HD of Vaca--formerly Fairfield HD--they have been known to gouge and are not known to be Buell friendly. HD prices anywhere are exorbitant. | ||
| Nocompromise |
Woohoooo! Thanks for the help guys! I (hopefully) got the bulk of the work done. Had to reinstall the front fender, front brake lever, and one turn signal. I changed the oil and the transmission fluid, squirted some oil down the cylinders and turned the engine over a bunch of times. I decided to skip the fork oil and brake fluid. I'll see how she handles and go from there. I placed the order for a new Westco battery a few days ago, and my buddy is going to order me a set of Pilot Power CT's. I charged the 10 (!!) year old battery overnight and tried to start her up, but the battery would only turn on the lights. It was too weak to turn the starter. Once I get the new battery the only potential roadblocks I see are gummed up carb, bad spark plugs, or bad starter. I have rejetted the carb, so I know I can clean it out - but it'll be a royal pain so I'd like to avoid it. My starter has always sounded a little funny, but it's never let me down. I don't know if the noises are normal but I wouldn't be surprised if it needed to be replaced. She has cleaned up pretty well considering how long she's been sitting. There were literally cobwebs in various crevices.  Any tips on cleaning off some surface rust from the brake rotors? In the past the front brake would collect a little rust, but the first ride would wear it right off. Thanks again for all the help guys!! I'm really psyched to start riding again. Now that I have 2 kids I'm going to have to slow down a little bit. I'll post some pics once I get her up and running, but she looks pretty much like any other lightly modded red S1... classically beautiful imo! | ||
| Bad_karma |
Kevin, Don't pass up the maintenance on the brakes too long. It could end in a surfing event. Joe | ||
| Nocompromise |
Does brake fluid degrade over time? I changed it out when I replaced the pads and installed the stainless steel line. Of course, that was years ago. As I recall it was somewhat of a pain, but I'm not much of a mechanic. I *definitely* do not want to re-enact a scene from Speed on my S1.  | ||
| Marchel |
Replace the brake-fluid. In time brake-fluid attracks water. Normally you should replaced it every two years. I replace it every year. (Message edited by marchel on June 03, 2007) | ||
| Mmmi_grad |
Brake fluid should be changed. @ years or whatever. Just bleed the brakes and be careful not to let any air in. Bleed and refil, repeat. NOTE: Example of brake fluid in cars. GM recommends bleeding brakes [ changing fluid ] 60-80000 miles | ||
| 89rs1200 |
Would recommend that you use an impact screwdriver and a RUBBER HAMMER on the clutch inspection cover Torx. DO NOT OVER TOQUE WHEN INSTALLING! Two hits should be enough. Using an impact screwdriver just keeps you from stripping the head of the torx bolt while removing and installing. | ||
| Johnnylunchbox |
Before tearing into the carb it wouldn't hurt to run a tankful or 2 of gas treated with Berrymans B-12 Chemtool or Seafoam, provided the engine fires up of course. This stuff is pretty good at eating up varnished fuel. | ||
| Nocompromise |
Marchel and Mmmmi, thanks for the words of wisdom. I will definitely change the brake fluid out. I am just so antsy to get riding again I was hoping to minimize the effort! 89rs, I did read a little about how Torx heads can be easier to strip, but I already tightened them using a torque wrench. I made sure the wrench was very well seated and went to just over 10 ft-lbs (not an exact thing since I have a low tech non-digital one). The manual said 9-12 if I recall correctly. Johnny, if the engine fires, I will definitely do that. I am hoping to avoid tearing the carb apart. Maybe if I end up doing some engine mods then I'll take the time to clean it out. I'd much rather run something through it like you suggest. Thanks for the brand names - I wouldn't know which brands are better. | ||
| Nocompromise |
Ok, here is an update. Just got back from Disneyland vacation - my 3 year old son went bananas since he's never been. The new Westco battery came when I was gone, so I installed that. Unfortunately, it won't fit in the tray even though a previous poster said that it would. It's about 1/8 of an inch too big.  I guess I'll get a thin rubber sheet to fill the tray unless someone has a better idea. I tried starting it - the starter sounds fine, but it wouldn't light off. So, this evening I tore apart the carb, and everything is absolutely coated in fuel varnish. Are Berrymans B-12 Chemtool or Seafoam (as Jonny suggested above) the best options for cleaning the varnish? Where is the best place to get them? Even if this is not the starting problem, I'm glad I tore into it because everything is simply disgusting. Next on the list for tomorrow is trying to find a place that carries the appropriate NGK spark plug. I'm also going to pick up some new brake fluid. I still have some 5 year old fluid in the bottle - I assume it is now bad like the fluid in the bike's brake system? I've been inspired by some of the sweet customs that other BWBers have created. I am already planning engine, suspension, and cosmetic modifications.  If the spark plug and carb cleaning don't do the trick, does anyone have any other ideas? I guess I'll cross that bridge when I get there. I was really hoping she would start right up with the new battery, but as I was working on her tonight she told me that she wasn't that easy. After all those years of neglect she wasn't about to go all the way with me and blitz the twisties like old times. She needed me to spend some quality time getting to know her again before she puts out.  It really was nice to reacquaint myself with the maintenance stuff (even though I'd rather be riding). Buells are so nice to work on compared to sportbikes! Thanks in advance for any advice! I'm sure you can't tell, but I'm just a LITTLE excited to get riding again.  | ||
| Firemanjim |
Kevin,make sure you get the colder plugs as Buell changed their recommendation on plug from 6R to a 10R.Did you try and see if you had spark? Pull a wire and stick new plug in and hold against head while turning over. Any good carb cleaner from Kragen etc will do the trick. B-12,CRC, etc. I have at least 2 batteries that should fit, one just came out of a 1997 M-2. Give me a ring,548-7906. Will be at work sat,may be off sun?? Jim. | ||
| Nocompromise |
Jim, thanks for the kind offer! I would like to use the Westco that I just dropped $100 on since it's brand new... I might try to dremel off the lip of the tray so it will fit. I've read of other BWBers doing this. I have to work this weekend also, but I tried to get some work on the bike done this evening. I picked up the NGK 10R equivalents (DBR9EA-9) at Fairfield Cycle and installed them. I cleaned out all of the carb components with CRC, EXCEPT the fuel inlet valve above the float bowl. I feel like a retard, but I can't figure out how to remove the pin that holds the float bowl on. I see the arrow, but I'm not sure if that's indicating the direction in or out. I tried tapping both ways to no avail. Help please!  Gas tank has been drained and topped off with new gas. So, once I get the fuel inlet valve cleaned and the carb reinstalled I'm going to try to fire her up! Any good techniques on starting? Choke out with throttle closed, choke in with throttle slightly open? If she starts then all I have left are tires and brake fluid! Whew... it's much less work to just keep them running.  Jim, once I get her up and running we should go for a ride sometime! I really appreciate your help. I took my son to the Fairfield Fire Dept on North Texas a while ago and it was a great experience. The firemen gave let him climb in the trucks, watch them do a ladder/hose check and gave him a plastic hat that he still likes. Have a good one! | ||
| Firemanjim |
That pin will tap out with minimal force,might have to use a small needle nose to give it a twist as varnish may have it stuck. | ||
| Nocompromise |
Ok, now I'm discouraged...I finished cleaning the carb and reinstalled it. I could not get out the pin that holds on the float bowl, so I just sprayed carb cleaner into the fuel inlet valve. The NGK DPR9EA9's have a smaller 'head' on them so the spark plug wires won't clamp on. What's the solution for this? Do I need new plug wires? I didn't see any mention of this in the spark plug threads that I read. The plastic threads that mount the choke snapped in 2 pieces, so I have to superglue that back together. I tried starting her, but she didn't light off. The engine did start making whoomping sounds like maybe it would start. So, I tried pulling the choke out (held it out as best I could since the mount is broken) and hit the start button. The engine turned over a few times and then made a louder whoomp noise and a bunch of smoke came out of the air filter and possibly the intake duct (I just know it came out the left side between the V, near the choke lever). Any suggestions? | ||
| Nocompromise |
Waaahooooo! SHE'S ALIVE!!!  So I got a couple terminal nuts from Prodigy in Vacaville. Jim, you were right - it seems like they have a great bunch of guys there. I will definitely go to them first whenever possible. I installed the new NGK's and superglued the broken choke mount (we'll see how long it holds up). She fired up on the first go. Now I just need a new set of tires and I'll go get this thing registered! I still need to change the brake fluid, and I'm thinking the air cleaner could probably use a cleaning too. Hopefully I don't discover any more problems once I start riding her. Thanks a ton for all the help guys! |
