| Author | Message | ||
     M2drew |
I have an 02 M2 with an intake, jet kit and D&D full exhaust (previous owner put all this on). I rode with some other sport bikes this weekend (vfr800,Duc 999,SV1000,truimph triple) and had no problems in the curves with them. When we hit the straights though, they pulled on me so fast! I'm debating on selling and getting a newer XB12s or putting money into the motor...1250 kit? Was wondering what others have done for power and if they are happy. Don't get me wrong, I don't want an all out fast straight bike, just would like another 20 hp or so... | ||
| Oldog |
Check with Cycle Rama Pammy is here some where. get 20 more hp they do it for a living  ask her about her X1 | ||
| Hippyjoe |
other sport bikes... (vfr800,Duc 999,SV1000,truimph triple) What times do those bikes run in the 1/4? That might be a good starting point.... Check the racing board, M2s like yours seem to run mid-12s, I believe the XBs with similar mods are cracking 11. I have a similar bike to yours, I added an ignition and X1 cams, I'd guess I picked up about 10 hp, seat of the pants. Definitely pulls harder once you get the rpms up a bit. Others here have done the same, they may have posted times. | ||
| M2drew |
looks like they are quicker...I don't want all out straight line power, just would like 10-20 more hp and tq, so as not to get left behind on the straights, between the curves. I've heard about the X1 cams, were they are straight boltup? Have there been dynos to prove the gain? | ||
| Hippyjoe |
Yep the XBs are quicker stock, the question comes down to which platform do you prefer before beginning modification... My buddy has a slightly modded M2, he just bought an XB and says it's much faster right out of the box. The SE "bolt-in" (X1 spec) cams are the biggest 100%-of-the-time "bolt in" cams you can slip into the Tstorm motors. Andrews makes some slightly more aggressive "hopeful bolt-in" grinds, but the installation seems to be hit-or-miss as far as truly bolt-in every time. Bolt-in meaning no need to lap gears or pull the heads. There is a lot of good info, links, etc. in the KV on cams, it's all been done here. One thing I found when researching cams was that some people had issues with spinning cam bushings in tube frame motors. This may be a result of increased spring pressure, which is required for the higher lift grinds, along with increased spring spacing. It seems to be a relatively rare occurance, but it has happened. Another issue is the stock M2 cams have exhibited premature failure. My motor was super clean with 11k miles, yet the cam lobes had patches of uneven wear on the hardening. I also wanted to replace my OPD gear. A benefit of the job was more power. How much more power? Most guys don't bother going to the dyno before swapping cams; they already want more power  So if you plan to keep your M2, it's not a bad idea to replace the cams. If you really want to pull stumps and don't mind down time, a bigger bore, head work and .536+ cams should get you there. I didn't want to deal with down time or the possibility of a spun bushing in the middle of a x-country expedition, so I kept it bolt-in. For now I'm happy. | ||
| M2drew |
thanks for the info. looks like more time reading the KV for me. I like both platforms, money says stay with the M2 and tweak a little... | ||
| Cyclonecharlie |
I have both bikes(XB&M2) although I like both bikes alot,I prefer the M2(big guy)it fits me better. For the most bang for the buck, the bolt-in cams and the race ecm. Then if you have the air cleaner and exhaust covered you should be able to hang with them(if the straights aren't too long) You will love the way the bike runs(really wakes it up)..........Charlie | ||
| Mikej |
Get a dyno-tune on your bike as it is now before you start throwing money and parts at it. Just because the previous owner put some parts on it, it doesn't mean it was set up right. Have a decent local shop check the timing and jetting (a/f ratio) for how it is currently set up. Also verify you have good packing material in your muffler as that will affect performance tuning as well. For hopefully less than $100 you'll have a starting point to gauge from, and just possibly you may find a few extra HP not currently being utilized with the current configuration of your bike as it now sits. | ||
| M2drew |
Thanks for the info guys...I didn't realize the bolt-in cams made that much difference. I figured I'd have to do head work also. I'd have to save up for that. Cyclone Charlie - Are you talking about the Buell race ecm? Do they even still make that? | ||
| M2drew |
Oh, one other question...what year X1 do I get the cams for? | ||
| Tnm2 |
Ditto the advice above on the cams. Cyclonecharlie hit it on the head - they make a difference you'll immediately feel. I bet you could get 3/4 of the 20 HP you want just in the cams and a good dyno tune. H-D Screaming Eagle cams for Sportsters are the same as the X1 cams. Bumpus in M-boro or Boswells probably has a set in stock. Good used sets pop up on ebay pretty often, too. The cool thing about your Buell is that its power output is limited mostly by your budget and willingness to do it. I'd bet Cycle Rama would gladly build a completely reliable set up for you that would pick its teeth with bikes like the VFR and the SV. I haven't worked on a fun bike project in a while. That's the other thing about Buell engines - they are actually fun to work on! A cam swap would be an easy afternoon project. kjandersonsr@comcast.net | ||
| Hippyjoe |
I didn't realize the bolt-in cams made that much difference. I figured I'd have to do head work also. Some guys say it's like having a new bike. What I noticed was a lumpier idle, a little less torque off the line--the powerband moves up about 500 rpm. Once you get into the higher revs tho, it pulls harder and doesn't let off. That's why a better ignition helps take advantage of the cams, bypass the stock rev limiter. Keep in mind you're still only adding about 10 hp... Head work really makes the top end wake up; that's why it's best to get even more aggressive cams to take advantage of the head work... Check out this thread for some links to vendors and info. Here is a link to the KV valvetrain section. Race ECMs come up from time to time in the classifieds. Someone here can prolly give you a part# in case you find one on ebay, etc. If you go with the SE bolt-in cams it's hard to buy the wrong ones, just make sure you order them for your year engine... verify your pinion gear first so you can double-check with the vendor just to be sure, it's in one of the links above. | ||
| Cyclonecharlie |
The cams are about 10 HP and you do lose alittle at the bottom, if you had the race header you would get that back. I started to say I had a race ecm(I think) but mine would be for a 2K and they are diff. I put a Dyna 2000i on mine, which you could do if you can't find the buell ecm. You can do as little or as much as you want with these motors...............Charlie | ||
| Davefl |
I can't say enough about the work Cycle Rama did for me.. My Cyclone had just shy of 80rwhp before I did the work and would top out at 120mph. I have not had the money to get it Dyno tuned but It is running good with no pinging and the plugs look good.. I now think it would hit the rev limiter in 5th if I had enough room and it could well be a unicycle if I let it. good fun. (Message edited by davefl on August 22, 2006) | ||
| M2drew |
Thanks for all the info. guys. Now its up to my wallet as far as what I do next... | ||
| Ceejay |
I agree with Davefl, just let Pammy and Wes know what you would like, and they can hook you up... | ||
| Djkaplan |
Irony of ironies... the last generation M2 was the mildest big Buell you could get, but it's also the easiest one to make faster. No FI to re-map and wide open engine and carb access make it really easy (and fun) to hotrod. It'll never be able to keep up with a litre bike in a straight line, though. | ||
| M2drew |
Sent Pammy an email! | ||
| Oldog |
Drew Pammy owns a 160 RWHP X1 yes they can make your sled faster...... Have fun |
