| Author | Message | ||
     Tres_wright |
My 2000 X-1 just recently developed a light oil leak that has me baffled. I can't tell where it's coming from! If I clean the bike off, start it and run it in the driveway, there's no evidence of the leak. But if I take it for a short ride at freeway speeds, I end up with spots of oil on my left pant leg and splatters on the front head (left side), upper part of the front jug and as far back as the aluminum rail under the seat. When parking it after a short ride, some oil will drip off the bottom of the front motor mount. It drips maybe a dozen drops or so after each ride. I checked the front spark plug and it is tight, I also pulled the tank and checked the rocker cover torque and that is OK as well. It looks like it -might- be coming from between the head and rocker covers, but I simply cannot tell for sure. Since a lot of you guys know Buells better than me, I thought I'd check here to see if there's some known problem like this before resorting to taking it in to a dealer. Thanks for any help! | ||
| Djkaplan |
If it's coming anywhere near the top of the cylinders, it's probaby the rocker box gaskets. They are notorious for leaking. Updated gaskets cure it. It's a great do-it-yourself project. | ||
| Tres_wright |
==They are notorious for leaking.== That's probably it then. It does look like it's coming out from between the head and the lowest cover section which of course means removal of the rocker arms- woohoo!  So do I get the updated gaskets from H-D or is there a better source? Thanks! | ||
| Bookyoh |
Tres wright: I have done two Buells with the updated gaskets and have been very satisfied with no repeat leaks. Mark Cincinnati | ||
| Crux |
Yep...yank the tank and replace the gaskets; the two rocker box gaskets and the crappy paper ones on the lower end...get the metal one-piece updated gaskets for the lowers and you'll be fine. Take care in scraping the old paper one off with a razor blade. GL. | ||
| Screamerbolt |
tres--i have replaced a couple hundred of these and the best gaskets i have used are made by James gaskets.the reason you probably cant find the leak in your driveway is because there is not enough crankcase pressure to make it leak just sitting there. | ||
| Xldevil |
...get the metal one-piece updated gaskets for the lowers and you'll be fine I have changed numerous of rocker gaskets and I can second that without restrictions. Unlike the James gaskets,the OEM metals are re-useable, at least two or three times. Ralph | ||
| Tres_wright |
Great, thanks again guys!! I found the James Gaskets web site, I'll give them a call and order 'em up! | ||
| Cyclonecharlie |
Now would be a great time to switch to the XB rocker boxes. A much better breather sys. and possibly not spring as many leaks(less crankcase pressure)IMO. There not expensive as parts go.......Charlie | ||
| Tres_wright |
I just ran across that XB mod on the "X-1 files" site, the link doesn't work but someone reposted the installation here: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/3842/34533.html?1145084134 | ||
| Tres_wright |
Unfortunately I found out today when trying to place an order that James Gaskets does not sell direct to consumers. They gave me a few local shops to try though. | ||
| Bomber |
the newer HD gaskets are good for at least 40K miles (that I know of) not dissin the james version, but the hd parts may be more readily available | ||
| Djkaplan |
I was thinking the same thing. Don't overthink this, just get the new gaskets from the HD dealer. | ||
| Tres_wright |
Thanks, that's exactly what I did  Problem was no one said whether the H-D parts were updated, but it sounded like from reading the X-1 site that maybe they were. I went by today and thankfully they had a full rocker cover gasket set in stock and it does contain steel base gaskets. If anyone else needs to do this, the part number is 17036-91. That includes all the gaskets, o-rings and fiber washers for both cylinders. | ||
| Jackbequick |
Tres, My 2000 M2 started leaking at about 3,700 miles and it got worse fast. I put the metal ones in this winter and they are holding fine with 2,000 miles on them. Consensus is to clean all the old gasket residue off (a 3M "greenie" and some solvent works good) and get the aluminum spotless, put the metal ones on with the stamped numbers up and dry (no sealants). Pay attention to the assembly sequence and torque specs and you'll be fine. Also, there is an oil drain hole that can be drilled out to 1/8th" to help with keeping excess oil out of the breathers, details are in the KV. Some guys also use a drill to lightly chamfer the area where the umbrella valves are fitted (you should get two of the new style green ones with your kit). I did not read about the chamfering under the umbrella valves until after I had mine buttoned back up. And some guys used some Loctite but none is used at the factory or called for in the service manual so I did not use any. Looks like if you put it together right it will stay together. Takes a few adapters and U-joints to get the torque wrench on all the bolts but its worth the trouble. Do you have a service manual? If not, email me at jacker at midmaine dot com and I can email you the torque specs and some details. Jack | ||
| Tres_wright |
Jack, many thanks for the offer but I did invest in a shop manual soon after getting the bike Wow, yours started leaking early! Mine has almost 9k on it. I did the front (leaking) covers this evening, I'll take on the rear this weekend when I have some more time. The old gasket came off easily enough, there were only a few spots that needed some extra attention in removing gasket residue. The bolts all looked to have Loctite residue on them, so I put some blue on them upon reinstallation. A quick shakedown ride looked promising, no leaks anywhere I'll take it for a longer ride this weekend to make sure, but it looks like it's fixed! Thanks again to everyone for the input! |
