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Buell Forum » Old School Buell » Archives OSB 001 » Archive through July 31, 2005 » X1 Fuel Pump Failure « Previous Next »

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Dano
Posted on Monday, July 11, 2005 - 07:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have a bone stock '99 X1 with 600 miles. The fuel pump is toast. I've done the diagnostics and even applied 12 VDC directly to the fuel pump connector. Is fuel pump failure common on the early X1? Can I expect a new replacement pump to last more than 600 miles? These cost around $250, no? Thanks,
Dano
Sussex, WI
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Monday, July 11, 2005 - 09:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Mine's lasted 54000 miles.

Perhaps yours ate something solid and jammed?
If so, what would happen if you reversed polarity to it?
(probably just start a fire and make you kill me : )
Does it still take current or is it an open circuit?
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Ryker77
Posted on Monday, July 11, 2005 - 09:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

my fuel pump worked fine. When I switched to a carb I wanted to pump the fuel out of the tank. I was unable to direct wire the fuel to pump.

So are you sure you applied 12v and a good ground?

Also you can find used fuel pumps and or complete fuel tank/pumps on Ebay.

Or just put a carb on the bike..
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5liter
Posted on Tuesday, July 12, 2005 - 12:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My fuel pressure regulator went out at 250 miles. New regulator was installed and still going strong at 18000 miles.
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99x1
Posted on Tuesday, July 12, 2005 - 06:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The fuel pump is like a automotive fuel pump - AFAIK, they rarely fail. The pump should start briefly when the key is on, and then shut down until the ECM sees cam position sensor pulses. The pump has the +12 volts fed to it, and the ECM makes the ground connection to turn it on. From a previous post: "with both ECM connectors off, a paper clip from Pin 2 (Black - which goes to frame ground) to Pin 3 (Brown with Yellow Stripe which goes to pump) on the black ECM connector causes the fuel pump to run."
pumpclip.jpg
Check the resistance between the leads, maybe after sitting for all this time (1999 with 600 miles?) it needs to be turned somehow (disassembled?) to get it to start?
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Dano
Posted on Tuesday, July 12, 2005 - 08:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The ECM set a code 33. There is 12 volts at the fuel pump connector (BN/Y and gray wires) for about 2 seconds after the ignition is turned on. There is no current draw and pump resistance measures open. Pump should draw 3 amps according to the service manual. ECM seems to be okay, must be the pump. Thanks for the help. Dano
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Denfromphilly
Posted on Tuesday, July 12, 2005 - 08:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Can you check the start diodes in the fuse block? They look like black fuses with kind of an arrow on them. The ground signal from the ecm routes through them and mine went bad & gave me a similar condition. $2 from HD, 4 weeks shipping, I will mail you one of my spares sooner than that! Check with a diode test on a DMM. Den 99X1
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Ryker77
Posted on Tuesday, July 12, 2005 - 09:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

2 of the 4 wires to the fuel pump have 12v to them. One is for the low fuel light and the other for the pump.
I just worked on this yesterday.. If I recall the yellow with brown wire is for the low fuel light.

So apply voltage and then just do a direct ground with the other wire.
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Dano
Posted on Tuesday, July 12, 2005 - 11:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes, 2 wires are for the low fuel light and 2 are for the fuel pump. The low fuel light wires are black and yellow/red. I'll check the diodes.
Thanks, Dano
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Twigman
Posted on Wednesday, July 13, 2005 - 09:08 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have a 2000 X1 with 10,500 miles.Last weekend when going for a ride. It died on me 4 or 5 times, but would always start back up with the engine light on for a few seconds and idol fine.It choked out a bit at first but after riding it about five miles it was good to go. I sprayed dw40 around the intake system but don't seem to have any vacuum leaks.Gonna check the plugs tonight but am open for other suggestions!
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5liter
Posted on Wednesday, July 13, 2005 - 10:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Twigman:
That's the same thing mine did. Mine was a bad fuel pressure regulator. It would stall and start right up again. It took them awhile to find it. The regulator is in the fuel pump assembly in the tank.
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Dolzinnig
Posted on Wednesday, July 13, 2005 - 04:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Dano,
My 02 X1 came from the factory with a bad fuel pump. It was replaced before I got it. Not much help to you though.

Twigman,
On my X1, when the fuel level is low (about 1.5 gallons left in the tank) it will stall when stopping hard, and sometimes stumble when leaving a light.
Harley tech (haven't brought it to a Buell tech just yet) said it has been happening with FI Heritages too, which are a similar (or same) fuel pump configuration. It's due to a fuel line in the tank which rubs against the inner wall and develops a hole. They replace the fuel line, it fixes the problem. My Dad's '03 Heritage does the exact same thing. Fuel tank full = no problem.

I am not 100% this is my problem, but filling the tank at 100 miles has been working so far. Bike is luckily still under warranty so I plan to bring it in soon, so then I will know whats up.
-grant
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Oldog
Posted on Wednesday, July 13, 2005 - 05:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Dolz:
I don't think that your info is good there
the problem may be "un porting" or a clogged vent heres pix of the pump, if you are interested i can send you info on the replacement of the pump there is no mention of a hose any where that is internal the pump may need inspection..

i have run the bike to about 1/2 gallon left and could tip it and light the low fuell light and it did not "cut off" under hard breaking or accell you may just "unport" the fuel.
the manual states that the pressure regulator is repairable, so you may want to inspect it
I would be supprised if the herritage pump is the same as the buell as the other elements are different.
FSM -01x1
pump front pump 2
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Wednesday, July 13, 2005 - 05:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

While we're on the subject, does anyone here know how the low fuel sensor works?
Mine hasn't worked right since 8000 miles.
I tried to have it fixed under warantee three times and finally just gave up.
I bought a sensor and it only has one wire. I shook it and it has no ralle that would indicate a float or something.
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99x1
Posted on Wednesday, July 13, 2005 - 06:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"..know how the low fuel sensor works?"
It's a NTC thermistor (negative temperature coefficient thermal resistor - decreases resistance with increasing temperature). The current through the thermistor isn't enough to heat it up if it is covered with liquid - but in free air the resistance will go down as it heats up, and the bulb will come on. Lamps have a low resistance filament when cold, but increase when it heats up (lights up). You may notice the bulb glows slightly just prior to going bright. The two I've tested measure ~1K ohm at room temperature, 1.8K ohms in ice water, and about 200 ohms in hot tap water.
The low fuel lamp bulb has to be the exact replacement for it to work properly, and the wiring has to have good connections....
(The circuit is just the bulb, battery voltage, and the level sensor)
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Wednesday, July 13, 2005 - 07:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Interesting! So there is an incandesant light bulb inside the tank that is on at all times!

So if the bulb burns out, the thermistor will not get hot and therefore not turn on the light.
Also, if the resistor cracks, there will be no light.
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99x1
Posted on Wednesday, July 13, 2005 - 08:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"So there is an incandesant light bulb inside the tank that is on at all times!"
Not sure I get that from what I wrote!
(Generic diagram of fuel level sensor)
levelsense.jpg
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Denfromphilly
Posted on Thursday, July 14, 2005 - 02:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

There is a feeble amount of electricity flowing through the level sensor at all times and the electricity always goes to the light bulb in your gauge. The electricity causes the sensor to heat up and the gasoline in the tank takes the heat away. When there is no gas to cool the sensor the amount of electricity going through the sensor increases to the point where there is enough electricity to light the light bulb on your gauge. Since the amount of electricity is pretty small, the bulb in your gauge needs to be perfectly matched to the system. If the bulb needs more electricity to light up than the system is designed for it will not light. For example if Buell designed the system to light a 3 watt 12v bulb and you replaced the bulb with a 5 watt 12v bulb the new bulb may not light. If the system is designed to light up a 2 volt 1 watt bulb and it was replaced with a 12 v 3 watt the system will not work. Watts are power and there may not be enough power flowing through the sensor and to the bulb to make the bulb light up.

If you don't believe me take off the gas cap and using a cigarette lighter peer into the tank and see if you can see a light bulb....NOT Den Sorry to be a smarta$$...
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Oldog
Posted on Thursday, July 14, 2005 - 04:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

hehehehehehehehehehehehehehehehehehehehe
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Friday, July 15, 2005 - 12:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

MY FACE!!!
my face!
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Oldog
Posted on Friday, July 15, 2005 - 02:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

no, not your face!, this is the result of chopping an s2 with the "plutonium enhanced cases"
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Dolzinnig
Posted on Saturday, July 16, 2005 - 03:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Oldog,
Sounds like what I was told is way off. (damn) I would like to see that info that you have. The pictures you have are way different than what the Harley tech drew on the napkin for me (haha), so looks like I'm nowhere close again. I wish I got that info from you a couple months ago when I started having this problem. ; )
Now, I am back at square one... I thought that what the Harley tech told me was feasible and made sense... It worked for about 2000 miles just fine, then got slowly worse...

I will IM you and give you my email. I appreciate your help.

Grant
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Dano
Posted on Tuesday, July 19, 2005 - 08:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I disassembled the tank today on my 600 mile X1 and discovered why the fuel pump failed. The filter screen on the fuel pump disintegrated and the fuel pump probably ingested all the bits. Have you ever heard of this before? Obviously this bike spent a lot of time in storage and the previous owner used Stabil in the gas.
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Oldog
Posted on Tuesday, July 19, 2005 - 08:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

good data point! the owners manual has some info on proper gas, and the FACTORY tech I spoke
some time back indicated that most aftermarket additives were not to be used primarily for o2 sensor reasons,
with out the comprehensive "materials of construction" list it's a gamble as to what is safe to use and what is not
Dano is the pump otherwise salvagable?
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Dano
Posted on Wednesday, July 20, 2005 - 08:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm not going to try to salvage the pump, I do not believe it is serviceable. It burned out when it ingested the filter screen bits. The pump body and the pressure regulator cover have surface rust on them. Whatever was in the tank (old gas and Stabil) was caustic and also attacked the plastic filter screen.
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Wednesday, July 20, 2005 - 11:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Does stabil have alcohol in it?
Sounds like water got in there.
My friend is mothballing his XB12 for a year due to army fun. Any ideas?
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Oldog
Posted on Wednesday, July 20, 2005 - 11:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Dano:
I would prolly replace the filter down stream of the pump, I used an in gas carb cleaner on an older carbed bike some years back major problems nothing but gas goes in to the bike now
especialy after Your findings

Nate some thoughts

If I were setting up for long term storage one way might be to fill the tank nearly full
and leave it, pickling the rest per factory instructions ( to preclude as much air as is possible from the tank )
the other way place the bike on stands (protect the tires), have the bike started every 2 weeks and allowed to idle for 10 minutes, xb's have fans right? that keeps oil on the moving parts, and keeps gas in the fuel rail, depending on who and where the bike is stored the gas can be re plenished as it is used up
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Thunderlust
Posted on Saturday, November 25, 2017 - 12:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My '99 X-1 started crappping out then just died. When I turn on the ignition i don't hear the pump. what gives? bad pump, fuse. Only 4400 miles. what is the procedure to check this problem out. would hate to buy a new pump if its only a fuse.
nelsonvenice@gmail.com aka; Thunderlust
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