| Author |
Message |
    
Phelan
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 12, 2015 - 08:54 pm: | 
|
You can get a new 08 12 crank on eBay for under $600. Add an 08 front primary sprocket, gasket kit, and labor, and you're there. Personally I would go this route. Once I get the S2 back together, the Uly will be coming apart (again) for this, 07 oil pump, and new case bearings. Mine is an '06 and may not need it, but I'm approaching 110+ RWHP on a bike with 72,000 miles, so it's good insurance, as at that point almost the whole running gear will be new. |
Phelan
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 12, 2015 - 08:57 pm: |
|
http://ebay.us/jcFpyQ
$630 after shipping, my bad. I know our shop could do as much of the labor as you want us to; we've done a few times already this year alone. Would be a great time to add a 1250 kit and other goodies  .
(Message edited by phelan on August 12, 2015) |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 12, 2015 - 09:32 pm: |
|
Another good option. The 08 crank in an 07 motor is probably a pretty good fix. |
Hootowl
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 12, 2015 - 09:35 pm: |
|
Bill,
Have you tried ear plugs?  |
Greg_e
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 12, 2015 - 09:46 pm: |
|
The new crank and 1250 kit with valve job and new lifters should do just about everything you could need. But I bet the cost would end up around $3000. Doing the labor myself, I ended up somewhere above $2000 when I did the 1050cc kit on my 03 9R, I didn't really keep track because I didn't want to know the total! |
Phelan
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 12, 2015 - 09:51 pm: |
|
I'm bot at liberty to share what I've spent on my build, but... It will make you jealous . |
Phelan
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 12, 2015 - 09:54 pm: |
|
BTW, I would personally prefer an 08 crank setup in an 06/07 as it's a lot easier to tune and there are more cam options. |
Mr_grumpy
| | Posted on Thursday, August 13, 2015 - 01:54 am: |
|
Bill, have you listened to the motor with a mechanic's stethoscope? A long screwdriver can serve too. It may well help you track down the noise. |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Thursday, August 13, 2015 - 09:00 am: |
|
Hoot, I've mentally been doing that for a year now. I keep telling myself "It's a high performance air cooled motor with 30k miles on it, of course it's tappy, but it pulls hard. It will either run like this forever or blow up tomorrow and either is fine."
Then, about 30 seconds later, I think "Gaaaa! Where is that tapping coming from!!!". 
Innes, I use a wooden dowel rod up to my ear to try and trace the sound. It sounds closest to the cam cover.
Pammy did a wonderful job of rebuilding my heads, and there is no evidence anything is tapping the rocker box covers.
One thing I did NOT replace was the pushrods. I did pull them and make sure they were not bent or otherwise damaged, but they are the original stock, and I didn't have anything that could measure something that long with the kind of precision necessary. My precision calipers are too short.
If the bike didn't run so well it would be easier... but it runs perfectly. And the sound does seem to be getting worse.
I have also not put an actual oil pressure gauge on the oil system. I should do that too. |
Hughlysses
| | Posted on Thursday, August 13, 2015 - 09:08 am: |
|
Bill- Do you think it could just be a wonky valve lifter? They're fairly cheap ($20 each?) and are interchangeable with a common Chevy lifter IIRC. |
Sifo
| | Posted on Thursday, August 13, 2015 - 09:38 am: |
|
Time to ask a stupid question. You haven't changed helmets lately, have you. When I bought a new helmet a few years back, I suddenly heard noises that I never heard before. It really freaked me out for a while, until I tried my old helmet again.
I still think draining the oil is in order. Also cut open the oil filter. If you see a bunch of metal that shouldn't be there, you don't even have to go through the expense of refilling with new oil. If it looks normal, then it's almost certainly not the bottom end. If you have non-magnetic fragments, it's probably not the bottom end either.
If you wind up replacing the engine, don't forget to flush the oil tank, and oil lines are something I would probably just replace. No sense starting with a new engine that has debris in the oil system. |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Thursday, August 13, 2015 - 10:53 am: |
|
Hugh, did that too, and used the Melling lifters.
Sifo, good idea. Oil tank check and an oil pressure check are on the short list (after I rebuild the carbs for the '78 KZ-400 ...again....). It's getting close to time for an oil change anyway, and this will be the first full 3000 mile interval with increasing noise. I'll disect the oil filter and see what can be seen.
I haven't changed helmets, and the noise did start pretty distinctly during a trip to the UP in MI. It went from "did I hear something" at 6 am, and progressed to "yup, there it is" about 800 miles later after midnight as I was rolling into the driveway. Since then, maybe another 2000 miles or so, it's been coming and going and slowly progressing.
I still can't rule out a broken or bent something on the body banging on something else. Remember this bike was totaled and took a very hard hit.
And the most direct coorelation to something I can actually observe to the occurrence of the rattle is the "paintshaker factor". You know, the narrow harmonic frequencies where the bike is shaking really badly as you rev it. The RPM's where the gauges are a blur. When that happens, I get the rattle.
I'll post video of the oil so people can opine on what is "sparkly".
I appreciate all the insights and suggestions people are offering. |
Mr_grumpy
| | Posted on Thursday, August 13, 2015 - 02:08 pm: |
|
I replaced the lifters on the M2 years back, when I did the base gaskets & top end and the oil pump drive upgrade, it made a significant difference to the sound.
Still sounds like a demented sewing machine on steroids though. |
|
