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Reepicheep
| | Posted on Friday, May 09, 2014 - 04:00 pm: | 
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Hooked it up right this time so the magic smoke didn't come out. 
Works like a charm. Didn't have to do anything goofy with changing baud rates or anything either, it was set up right as shipped.
Just install ECMDroid to the HP Slate Andriod tablet, go to blue tooth settings, and connect to the new device (pin 0000,1234, or 9999, I forget which). Then go to ECMDroid, choose "connect", connect to the only device shown, and you are off to the races.
I didn't see cool graphics yet, just little bar graphs. But boy was it cool to be kicked back with the tablet from across the garage playing with the fuel pump, exhaust servo, and fan. And if you want to have real fun, hit the rear injector test a few times, then hit the rear coil test. ***BANG***. Good to keep the dogs on their toes. |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Friday, May 09, 2014 - 04:01 pm: |
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And thanks for posting your details and results PikeBen08! |
Jetlee
| | Posted on Friday, May 16, 2014 - 12:07 pm: |
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hit the rear injector test a few times, then hit the rear coil test.
HA! I'm gonna have to do that!
FWIW - I leave mine plugged in 24/7 and have never had a battery drain issue. It's nice for when my bike acts funny in the least, I can pop up ECMDroid on my phone without having to shutoff the engine to pop the seat to get the module to plug it in to start the bike to connect via bluetooth...I just pull out my phone and BAM. Been doing it like this for over a year.
(Message edited by JetLee on May 16, 2014) |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Friday, May 16, 2014 - 01:26 pm: |
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That's what I am doing. It doesn't seem to be powered up when the ignition is off.
I just need to make sure nobody reprograms it while I have the bike on and I am within bluetooth range... that's the only real risk here. |
Piratius
| | Posted on Friday, May 16, 2014 - 01:26 pm: |
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Ok, for some reason I was under the impression that the diagnostic port on the bike output a +5V logic hot side(like a computer), not standard +12V. I don't know where I got that idea from!
I've got all the pieces to make my own (and a spare!) - however the board version I got has an extra diode on the receive pin, like this:
It's labeled "B2" - and may keep the module from functioning properly. Not going to know until I try!
The Diagnostic port should be a switched +12V so it shouldn't drain the battery when the key is off and the run switch set to off.
If you're concerned about people messing with your stuff, you can always change the device PIN to something different than "1234". It would also need to be someone who knew where the module was, and what it was hooked to. A hacker who could connect to the Module, was able to see the data and could download it would just see a string of Hex. Without a frame of reference what the data was, it would be tricky to actually cause harm to the bike without just randomly changing bits and trying to reflash the bike.
Even so, if you have ECMdroid in your pocket, you would be able to just reconnect, and reflash the current ECM to the bike and ride off. I wouldn't worry about it!
-Brad
(Message edited by piratius on May 16, 2014) |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Friday, May 16, 2014 - 02:42 pm: |
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Why on earth would there be a diode on the receive pin?
When you go from a high to a low voltage, the diode will keep the port from dropping as quickly. It might work if they have a resistor to ground in parallel with the pin, but why?
You sure it's a diode and not a fuse?
It's a slick setup, and remarkably plug and play on both ends (aside from the need for 5v regulated voltage). You don't even have to reprogram the modem. |
Piratius
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 20, 2014 - 01:46 am: |
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Pretty sure it's a diode. However, I got everything wired up, and it works! I have power and communication with the ECM and my phone. Was able to do the tach test and the fan test, and was able to turn on "live mode" and watch the throttle move with each twist of the wrist.
Awesome!
My total package is about 3" long, and less than .75" thick. Hopefully I'll be able to get it packaged up nicely with some epoxy as potting and give a little write-up. |
Cataract2
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 20, 2014 - 06:06 am: |
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There has been an update released for ECMDroid yesterday. Just an FYI. |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 20, 2014 - 07:55 am: |
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Thanks Cataract2. I wonder what changed?
Piratius, don't underestimate the value of electrical tape secured by a cable tie as a "packaging" solution. Cheap and effective for something that doesn't have a display and that you don't have to look at. |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 20, 2014 - 08:51 am: |
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I looked. If you have two ECM's and use the same device there was an identifier cached from the first that could confuse the second. The patch clears the cache now.
Looks like its all open source. I have too many projects, too bad, it would be cool to add some dashboards. |
Piratius
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 20, 2014 - 11:07 am: |
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I have some ideas to make the unit completely waterproof so that it can stay on the bike 24/7 without fear of shorting out or being ruined. Having said that, it will add a tiny bit of weight.
I also want to be able to zip-tie it to the bike so it's not flopping around - and I think my solution will let me do that! Just have to go and pick up some stuff from the hardware store. Updates are going to be sporadic at best, going to be busy for the next week! |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 20, 2014 - 12:50 pm: |
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Epoxy putty potting would work fine also, just make sure it isn't acidic or something, and that it doesn't shrink when it cures.
I've used this first hand with very good results.
http://www.amazon.com/Apoxie-Sculpt-1-Lb-White/dp/ B0013UDWXI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1400604417&sr=8- 3&keywords=epoxy+putty
I also have used the GE Silicone II (the low odor stuff) and that worked well. It's not acidic like normal (vinegar smelling) RTV silicone. But it's really hard to be "neat" with it... probably best to fashion a small cardboard box the right size, put a layer of Silicone on the bottom, press the board in, then cover the top with more silicone, then kind of squeegee it flush or something, then just peel off the cardboard after it cures. 1/4 inch of silicone seemed to cure over night, but half an inch or more took over a week to cure.
I'd be interested in any solutions anyone else comes up with... I'm struggling with packaging for my heater controller. Lots of kind of OK options, none that feels like a slam dunk. |
Cataract2
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 20, 2014 - 01:34 pm: |
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Thanks Cataract2. I wonder what changed?
What's New
EcmDroid v0.96 (2014/05/19):
- Fix a bug introduced in v0.93: Upon switching ECM types,
the variable cache was *not* cleared, resulting in stale offset/size
definitions and potential data corruption
- Display Layout, Country ID and Calibration Info on Main Screen
Just for others if they are curious. |
Piratius
| | Posted on Wednesday, May 21, 2014 - 12:58 am: |
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Reepi, it'll take a few days, possibly through the end of the weekend/monday, but I'm working on something that might fit the bill perfectly for our bikes. I'll post pictures when I get a chance to get enough materials to make it happen!
-Brad |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 10, 2014 - 10:18 am: |
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Anyone try some of the other suppliers for a cheaper modem? I'm playing with an idea to use these for other purposes, and may want to find a good source to get several of them cheap. |
Tempest766
| | Posted on Saturday, June 28, 2014 - 11:17 am: |
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RE: the diode on the receive line.
The bluetooth modules are 3.3v internally, not 5v. The Shotzkie diode is to protect the receive line from the higher ttl voltages. I don't have the schematic in front of me but I read it a few days ago and it made perfect sense at the time.
Also, I'm not sure about the 12v comment above on the diag port. I am fairly certain that I read it was 5v ttl level on the data lines AND the vcc power line. I will verify with a meter before hooking anything to it...as you should too. *** EDITED *** I checked the schematic and I was wrong. It is 12v!
Finally, I want to order a handfull of the slave bluetooth modules for a bunch of applications, however the only ones I can find are from european providers or ones here in the states that won't take phone orders, just online credit card...and I NEVER do online credit card orders. I'm funny that way. There are two models of the modules floating around out there. The first is the native 3.3v slave module and the second is the one pictured above that is on a carrier card that has a five volt regulator on it and the aforementioned diode. I of course want the one that is regulated for 5v...as all of you will too.
(Message edited by tempest766 on June 28, 2014) |
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